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Polished Schiit: Bifrost, Gungnir Upgrades! - Page 3

post #31 of 69

How come the Uber is $70 extra when purchasing a new Bifrost, but also $70 when you purchase it separately? Shouldn't it be cheaper when you purchase it with a new Bifrost because the cost of the standard analog output should be subtracted?

 

i.e. the cost of a new Bifrost with the Uber should be: ($350) + ($70) - (Cost of standard board)

post #32 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by EraserXIV View Post

How come the Uber is $70 extra when purchasing a new Bifrost, but also $70 when you purchase it separately? Shouldn't it be cheaper when you purchase it with a new Bifrost because the cost of the standard analog output should be subtracted?

 

i.e. the cost of a new Bifrost with the Uber should be: ($350) + ($70) - (Cost of standard board)

 

Probably because it is considered a separate component upgrade, not just an option.  Jason said that if you upgraded to the uber board that you could request the original analog board sent to you as well.

 

Cheers!beerchug.gif

-HK sends

post #33 of 69

Question  - It's going to cost me over $250. to have both the USB and the analog Uber upgrade done.  

 

Is it worth it to have both done? I do use USB but rarely if ever play files larger than a standard lossless CD 44.1k file. 

 

I'm conflicted on what to do. 

post #34 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by phototristan View Post

Question  - It's going to cost me over $250. to have both the USB and the analog Uber upgrade done.  

Is it worth it to have both done? I do use USB but rarely if ever play files larger than a standard lossless CD 44.1k file. 

I'm conflicted on what to do. 


Certainly get the analog upgrade. USB depends on your set up, if using a computer and you don't have optical or coaxial out then get USB, MOST converters from USB to spdif cost more than bifrost USB. like I said, depends on what connections you currently have if USB would be useful to you.
post #35 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by RestoredSparda View Post


Certainly get the analog upgrade. USB depends on your set up, if using a computer and you don't have optical or coaxial out then get USB, MOST converters from USB to spdif cost more than bifrost USB. like I said, depends on what connections you currently have if USB would be useful to you.

 

With the new analog upgrade, does the Bifrost still click when sample rate changes using optical or coaxial? That's really the only reason I'm using USB at this point. It doesn't make any sounds when using USB but has tons of internal clicks when on optical or coaxial digital input. 


Edited by phototristan - 5/3/13 at 10:21am
post #36 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by phototristan View Post

With the new analog upgrade, does the Bifrost still click when sample rate changes using optical or coaxial? That's really the only reason I'm using USB at this point. It doesn't make any sounds when using USB but has tons of internal clicks when on optical or coaxial digital input. 


Yes it still clicks. That sound is an internal muting relay. it has nothing to do with the analog upgrade. I honestly don't mind the sound, its reassuring and sounds cool to me. I only use my system to sit down and listen to albums so it only clicks on the initial start and if a sample rate change. I'm almost positive USB would not stop the clicking. Connection doesn't matter in regards to clicking.
post #37 of 69
be sure to route computer noises like dings and beeps for system sounds like email, etc... to a different output. If not system sound effects will trigger the relay on the bifrost, so will YouTube videos. just some advice.
post #38 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by RestoredSparda View Post

be sure to route computer noises like dings and beeps for system sounds like email, etc... to a different output. If not system sound effects will trigger the relay on the bifrost, so will YouTube videos. just some advice.

Yeah, good tip. I use SoundSource (OSX) to do that. 

 

The Bifrost still clicks fairly often though maybe I should just get used to it so I can forego USB and use optical?


Edited by phototristan - 5/3/13 at 10:50am
post #39 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by RestoredSparda View Post
 I'm almost positive USB would not stop the clicking. Connection doesn't matter in regards to clicking.

Using USB, there are zero clicks. 

post #40 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by phototristan View Post

Question  - It's going to cost me over $250. to have both the USB and the analog Uber upgrade done.  

 

Is it worth it to have both done? I do use USB but rarely if ever play files larger than a standard lossless CD 44.1k file. 

 

I'm conflicted on what to do.

 

You could do what I did and sell your original and order the updated one. I got the factory install for a little bit more than the do it yourself price that way.

post #41 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radioking59 View Post

 

You could do what I did and sell your original and order the updated one. I got the factory install for a little bit more than the do it yourself price that way.

I may just do that. 

 

Now I just have to decide if I need the USB or not. All depends if I can live with the clicking or not. 

post #42 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by phototristan View Post

Yeah, good tip. I use SoundSource (OSX) to do that. 

 

The Bifrost still clicks fairly often though maybe I should just get used to it so I can forego USB and use optical?

 

 

I guess it's a personal thing, but I don't understand why the click bothers you so much.  It only clicks if the sample rate or bit depth of the file you're feeding it changes...

post #43 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by nelamvr6 View Post

 

 

I guess it's a personal thing, but I don't understand why the click bothers you so much.  It only clicks if the sample rate or bit depth of the file you're feeding it changes...

It clicks more than you think.

 

Examples - If I'm in an IRC chat, it clicks with every beep in that app. Same thing for an instant messages.

 

If I'm editing a video in Final Cut Pro, it clicks *every* time I start and stop playing something, which is literally every few seconds when editing.  I usually just turn it off and edit using the analog line out instead when I'm editing video, but it's annoying that I have to do that. 

 

It also clicks for every YouTube video I start or stop playing.  

 

And, if I didn't route the system beeps to the analog line out, it would also click for all of those as well. 


Edited by phototristan - 5/3/13 at 12:10pm
post #44 of 69

I had a Bitfrost shipped to me on 04-08......it looks like it has 176.4kHz showing up in the unified driver. I just ordered the analog upgrade so looking forward to that. IMO, I love all things mechanical and really like the clicks and clacks that my 3 Schiit devices make, especially the satisfying thunk of the switches. They sound like they have life compared to some of my other totally sterile devices that I sometimes wonder if they are on or off. BTW an ANAL-og does indeed = Schiit

 

The only thing that would make my setup supreme is if my Bitfrost had an analog pass through so I could hook up my Pioneer DV-58AV SACD player with an excellent DAC to it, OR an additional set of analog IN on the Lyr.....I'd have the ultimate solution. A Squeezebox Touch streaming FLAC to the Bitfrost and SACD/DVD-Audio hgih rez playback all in one hooked up swoop!

 

Right now I have to swap analog cables on the Lyr for this to work.

 

I can't pass high rez SACD over coax or optical because it's never been an option.


Edited by Grado77 - 5/3/13 at 12:17pm
post #45 of 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by phototristan View Post

It clicks more than you think.

 

Examples - If I'm in an IRC chat, it clicks with every beep in that app. Same thing for an instant messages.

 

If I'm editing a video in Final Cut Pro, it clicks *every* time I start and stop playing something, which is literally every few seconds when editing.  I usually just turn it off and edit using the analog line out instead when I'm editing video, but it's annoying that I have to do that. 

 

It also clicks for every YouTube video I start or stop playing.  

 

And, if I didn't route the system beeps to the analog line out, it would also click for all of those as well. 


Do you actually want hear any of those sounds at all?  I work with a Mac and use AudirvanaFree and let it get an exclusive lock on my DAC and just let EVERYTHING else go thru whatever the default output is.  I have a Gungnir at home and do basically the same thing with Windows and MusicBee and I don't have clicking problems.

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