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The amazing sounding, very easy, almost free RME mod! - Page 6

post #76 of 182
Thread Starter 
I don't get why it makes any difference, cutting the traces that is. I mean, since the opamps are out, the signal chain is effectively broken, right? So there is no extra garbage signal or anything like that being sent down the ADC stage, right? All those caps and resistors don't do anything if they don't have a signal fed to them, right? Or am I missing something here...
post #77 of 182
Not necessarily. I have to run right now, but I'll draw a schematic later tonight.
post #78 of 182
well that not exactly true.. opamps are out but their ouputs are connected to their inputs through feedback resistors and capacitors, there are also a few resistors and capacitors to ground.. exactly like Wodgy said.. possibly the second easiest way after cutting traces is to remove the last resistor in signal way and cap(s) to ground after it..

oh and do the same to the original output too, removing opamps from your browndog is simply not enough..
post #79 of 182
OK, I'm going to put my RME PAD on my flatbed scanner to get a high res pic. I can't get a good pic of the area without the flash obliterating all the detail. Plus my camera sucks.

-Ed
post #80 of 182
I'm going to swap out the salvaged Star Quad wires with silver wire for the hell of it. This time making sure each length is the same. What's a good AWG for wire to use? I was thinking of buying a foot of the stuff from HomegrownAudio.com. They have 22, 24, 26, and 30 AWG Silver wire.

-Ed
post #81 of 182
Damn, flatbed scanner didn't work. Components are too far away from the glass.

Anyways, anyone answer my question above, please? Which guage should I go for?
I'm assuming I won't have to go that thick for the hook up wire. Would going too thick be detrimental or beneficial?

-Ed
post #82 of 182
Thread Starter 
FWIW I think my Headphile cables are 22AWG.
post #83 of 182
The little silver wire sticking out of the "male" part of the XRS?

-Ed
post #84 of 182
Thread Starter 
Indeed
post #85 of 182
Hey Ed, try taking your pictures in open sunlight? Or at least outside in light shade. That will light your pictures up nicely if you turn off the flash.
post #86 of 182
Here are higher res photos of the Stock RME PAD courtesy of CEO Matt....


^^^Click for High Res Image***


^^^Click for High Res Image***

So, Wodgy, Glassman. Do you see anything else there that be modded? As you can see the traces are very close in between the 1/4" TRS jacks. I don't mind yanking stuff off of the card. That is very easy.

-Ed
post #87 of 182
Thread Starter 
I have modded those pics to show the necessary connections to mod the card for balanced, or unbalanced operation. The Red lines represent positive outputs, and the yellow negative (inverted) outputs.

Unbalanced



Balanced

post #88 of 182
Damn Host.

post #89 of 182
Capacitor Removal (Do this for BOTH Unbalanced and Balanced)




Unbalanced Mod Front (Remove 1 OP Amp)




Balanced Mod Front (Remove 3 OP Amps)



*Apparently there is an even better way to do this one, so I await advice from the wise ones....

-Ed
post #90 of 182
Oh, and after we sort this finalize the mods, I guess we should start another thread with a nice "paint by numbers" pictorial guide.

-Ed
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