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Almi's Logitech Z-5500 Mod (High-End upgrade for the speaker system) - Page 25

post #361 of 396

Brain-D, mine had the same symptoms (http://www.head-fi.org/t/657715/almis-logitech-z-5500-mod-high-end-upgrade-for-the-speaker-system/345#post_12531104).


Eventually, sound stopped coming out of the speakers, for which I needed to cycle power.  Then, even that wouldn't fix the issue and my pod would display the error:


Error Loadingt       96--24

DSPABT:      Detecting...


I had no capacitor or other obvious problems inside either the pod or the subwoofer.  And, no smell of burning electronics.


I'm in the process of building a bypass box as described here:  http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/110310-hacking-logitech-z5500-49.html#post3706679


Will update when/if I get it working.

Edited by Alketi - 5/11/16 at 7:59am
post #362 of 396



I recently bought the z5500, second hand in perfect state, they came with a very good quality custom wires (not the stock ones) and they sound really awesome.


After reading this thread i decided to modify my system as well, what i want to do is changing the Op Amps.


Seeing other`s feedback, i would like to buy the OPA1612AID.


I found these on ebay at 3.44$ / piece - LINK


Are these genuine or fakes? Most of them are to be found at 8-9$ / piece.

What would you guys recommend? Where did you buy these parts?


I`m from Europe.

post #363 of 396
Thread Starter 

Popping sound maybe the result of a contact problem of the power cord, switch. Inside: loose main filter capacitors (even if the solder joint look fine), internal insulation is began to break down in a component. When more than one speaker has the problem it points toward the main filters and around the +18 -18V regulators. But before you start taking the system to pieces measure the Volts first.

Often to locate fault is like finding the needle in the haystack, people who repair household electronic remove, test, soldering back one component after another.


The 16/24 bit problem is maybe broken/damaged optical cable or dust, fingerprint, low signal strength because the length or quality, or the signal divided too many ways. Other options is faulty optical connector, receiver chip or the DSP. There is a tiny tiny chance it has something to do with increased power requirement on 24 bit, what the Pod don't get.


eBay is an expensive source for OpAmps, only worth if you need few pieces. Try Mouser, Farnell, Digikey. Mouser has the Silmic II capacitors even Nichicon KG or KW. Still I recommend the two 10 000uF Elna For Audio or DENON from Asia. The OPA1602AID is cheaper and more alive than the OPA1612AID. Try here.

Edited by ramachandra - 5/27/16 at 3:05pm
post #364 of 396

Recently I read about the "z-5500" and learned that inside there is a DAC.
It sounds better motherboard onboard sound.


Ramachandra, I remember how you advised card with analog output, but I was planning to buy a sound card with digital output. Now I understand how it works and is ready to follow the advice.


At the moment I am looking to purchase options.
We have our own ebay - avito.ru.
I can buy used sound card in his home town to check it.
I need help in choosing.
This purchase for further modification.
The manufacturer's warranty does not bother me.
I want to experiment.


I saw your article about sound cards modifications.


Could you recommend something relevant for today?

Select will be here:


Have you seen this video?
Have you tried something like that?


Audio cable I replaced immediately.
I would like to know about replacing the power cord.
Strongly Does this affect the sound?

Edited by z5500 digital - 5/28/16 at 8:38pm
post #365 of 396

An update on my dead Z-5500, which was exhibiting popping from ALL speakers, before finally dying and exhibiting the following error on the pod's LCD display:


Error Loadingt       96--24

DSPABT:      Detecting...


I inspected and found no damaged capacitors or burnt electronics smell in the subwoofer.  So, I bypassed the control pod using the following diagram:




Note that my pod is revision R547.  The pinout differs on later pods.


I built a small box to contain all the rework, and it's now working perfectly.  Sound from all five channels!


If you have popping on all channels, or an otherwise dead control pod, and have inspected the subwoofer for obvious faults, then bypassing the control pod may just fix your issue was well.


The thread detailing this information, with the post that I followed can be found here:  http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/110310-hacking-logitech-z5500-49.html#post3682337



post #366 of 396
Thread Starter 

I certainly not recommend PCI cards. For example if the Creative is not making driver, probably you can still use PAX, but the PCI slots are about to disappear from new motherboards. If you do not want a mod, probably I recommend the PCI Express ASUS Xonars, or if you want a mod and cost+risk is not an issue. Otherwise I suggest a Titanium or Titanium Fatal1ty Pro. From DAC point of view I prefer the Cirrus DAC on the Titanium cards. Cirrus DACs are energetic rough beauty compared to the gentle refined PCMs with the nice 3d touch. The Xonar cards with their own DAC chip for every two channel are supposed to be superior for clarity. The X-Fi cards is the choice for a gamer to reach the maximum frame/sec gameplay. From driver point the Creative cards had less trouble according to the rumors few years ago.

From Titanium VS Titanium Fatal1ty Pro point what you get for the extra money is a piece of iron shield to improve the SNR. Measurements show the difference your hear will not.

For digital connection any of the cards released in the last 10 years from Creative or ASUS, probably do a perfect job.


The PSU cable is a good question, in theory it is matter, in practice, perhaps.

The power get somehow to your house from the generator. In Russia it can come from really far, on who knows what sort of network of wires. In the walls of the house maybe there is copper, if the building is old it can be aluminum. Next thing is how good is your extension lead if you use any. Then we arrived to your Z's 2 meter long power cord. If the previous wires are quality and the power cord is made from dirty cheap rubbish (no offense to the Chinese, just a possibility) the new cord is perhaps make a small difference. My friend told me he bought a fancy cord for his external DAC and he was happy with the improvement. Yet I have to try.


On the first post I have mentioned we changed of the original speaker wires to solid core copper wall cable. The result is good. We have not try to replace the spring clips. If you interested in the best connection try gold plated.

Gold have 3 attractive qualities:

- looking great

- no oxidation

- soft metal create better contact (in theory because the plating is thin)


- higher price

- not the best conductor (the next after copper the silver is on top from the elements)

- no connector beat the solder joint.

Edited by ramachandra - 5/29/16 at 5:02pm
post #367 of 396

Thanks for your feedback ramachandra!


I don`t know if i want to touch the caps as it looks difficult to do.


I see you pointed out the OPA1602AIDR, is there any difference between them?


I have a few more questions though:

1. If i only change the opamps with those you mentioned - OPA1602AID, will i notice a big difference? Or any difference at all? Have you compared two systems side by side, one modded and one vanilla (as it came out of factory)? I'm a bit skeptical as some articles point out that swapping the opamps won't make any real improvement to the sound.

2. What role do the opamps from the console have? Do they have an impact on the overall sound? Or only the ones from the sub are important? - What if i change only the amps from the sub?

Edited by kaya47 - 6/3/16 at 1:20am
post #368 of 396


I also have a question.
Here, someone tried to "discrete op amp"?
Do not expensive solutions?

Edited by z5500 digital - 6/4/16 at 4:48am
post #369 of 396
Thread Starter 

The R coming on reel(s) not in tubes. The same otherwise.

"some articles point out that swapping the opamps won't make any real improvement to the sound." When I swap within the general purpose garbage, that's for sure. :biggrin:

"Have you compared two systems side by side, one modded and one vanilla (as it came out of factory)?" No need. The owners had them long enough to be accurate. + My experience.

The thread holds the detailed answer to the rest of your questions.

Edited by ramachandra - 6/3/16 at 4:23pm
post #370 of 396

Thank you, i didn`t wan't to offend you, if that`s the case.


I have read the whole thread actually and i want to pull the trigger on this one. But couldn`t find any answer to my second question, i know that swapping the opamps from sub would make the most difference, but what if i swap only those not all 11? I don`t know the role of the opamps from the console.

post #371 of 396
Thread Starter 

When the signal travel trough any active or passive components there is some loss, change or degradation, so the logical step is to find the most suitable components or change the design to minimize it and to keep the way we want. Many sound equipment on the shelves not designed to achieve the possible best experience by perception, yet completely fulfill the expectation on the paper and keep the manufacturers/customers happy.

When you change the OpAmps alone in the Pod the sound is coming closer to that what the source produce + the new components add their own sound signature. The first 3 on the analog input is probably the same story what I have removed in the third mod. (just taking the space, degrade, make the system more vulnerable to faults + increased the manufacturing cost.) The other 3 actually serve a necessary function, to amplify the weak signal coming from the DAC's. If let say you replace all the OpAmps in the Pod alone you get a cleaner sound, if the capacitors as well, it is becoming more alive, dynamic, and sound stages, bass noticeably improve. If you change the capacitors alone the stock OpAmps remain a bottleneck and the benefit even arguable. Basically the same experience like the modification in the Sub just smaller in scale.

post #372 of 396

sorry to  divert - but if any of the z5500 owners who have had blank/faded text on the control pod and fixed it  


can please respond to the the  following thread ; can't seem to find any solution to this so far...



post #373 of 396
Thread Starter 

"Here, someone tried to "discrete op amp"?" For the Z5500 I do not remember anybody even to try different OpAmp(s).
"Do not expensive solutions?" I have not seen any discrete OpAmps cheap. They are minimum 10X more expensive compared to the OPA1602.


I was looking them for some time ago, even I got 2 small PCBs to make my own eventually. I was unconvinced when I read the opinions. It seems the improvement with the more expensive ones is only marginal or arguable. Of course the test equipment and person is very much part of the unknown factor on forums. Maybe they are the ultimate option for cutting edge gear, or fail miserably against the advantages of a small chip.

If you do not mind a bit of work the current OpAmps on the market can do better. For example the OpA1602 has no mono version, but if you wire it up as a mono, two of them sound way cleaner, and even handle bass better. The same apply to my old favorite Opa2228P even it has the Opa228P mono version. Even more can be done with them and there is a high possibility the discrete OpAmps not a competition, just on the paper.

Edited by ramachandra - 6/26/16 at 7:41am
post #374 of 396

Please tell me.


For Creative X-Fi Titanium (4) + z5500 (11) = need 15 x OPA1602AID (or OPA1602AIDR) ?

Not very expensive discrete operational amplifier:

I would like to try these:
But I do not know whether to do it =)

2 x "OPA228P" to put the sub-woofer needed with the Z-5500 ?
In creative x-Fi Titanium is also necessary "OPA228P" ?

Edited by z5500 digital - 1/17/17 at 2:07am
post #375 of 396
Thread Starter 

Seeing the Supreme Sound Opamp V5i from the inside make me a bit skeptical to spend $39.00 USD. Unless the chip is really their own unique design as they say. I have never tried those OpAmps on the links, so my opinion is not very useful.


"For Creative X-Fi Titanium (4) + z5500 (11) = need 15 x OPA1602 ?" Yes, if you do not want to do the third mod on your Z.


"2 x "OPA228P" to put the sub-woofer needed with the Z-5500 ?" No need. It is produce better sub bass, and can be difficult to install properly. (Untested in the Z, but supposed to work.)

"In creative X-Fi Titanium is also necessary "OPA228P" ? Not necessary. You can install an Opa2228P or a pair Opa228P with the adapter(s) for the Sub channel on your X-Fi for the same reason. This chip on the bottom also the OpAmp of one side channel, and a stereo Opa2228P will have effect on both. In 5.1 it is not an issue. (I had to edit this message this morning because I have confused myself with the output jack. Sorry.)

Edited by ramachandra - 7/11/16 at 11:16pm
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