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Ventus EZ Help! (updated) - Page 5

post #61 of 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchGFX View Post


Cooked something on the amp boards or the PSU?

And just to vconfirm, i check the voltage being outputed by putting the MM on the DC+ and DC-, and it should read 15v about correct?

 

Either is possible.  The regs may also be toast given how you had the "mounted" on the heat sinks.

 

seriously, put this in a box and forget it until you've built a cmoy or three.  

post #62 of 70
Quote:
seriously, put this in a box and forget it until you've built a cmoy or three. 

 

 

 

 

I was just thinking the same thing...

post #63 of 70
Thread Starter 

When testing the Rectifiers, only get 6v. Then I tested the AC in, and its only 12. So maybe there is an issue with my plug or something. Will check later.

post #64 of 70

1-Remove all connections to regulators-then retest

 2- If still 6V then test AC INTO the rectifier.

  3-If still low-remove all connections to rectifier.

   4-retest-AC-V

    5-if AC low-then problem with transformer-

      These checks are to establish whether you have a s/c on the regulators/OR you have  blown the diodes in the rectifier with an overload.
 

post #65 of 70
I'm sorry, but I have zero confidence that the transformer is hooked up correctly or that any part with a required orientation is going the right way. So there's so many potential problems that could exist (not even considering dead parts from excessive heat or damage to the board itself) that continuing to give advice on how to fix this CFD is not worthwhile. Dutch, either learn what it is that you're trying to do or stop. You ignored lots of good advice leading up to the purchase of the Ventus kit and you see what it got you. If you want to continue to ignore advice that's your choice but don't expect help if you continue to show that you wont accept it.
post #66 of 70

You have got a point.
 

post #67 of 70
Thread Starter 
Yeah I'm done for now for sure, ive had enough failure lol. Thanks all for the help though!

Case closed. Will try to build a few Cmoys and maybe a mini3
post #68 of 70
Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchGFX View Post

Yeah I'm done for now for sure, ive had enough failure lol. Thanks all for the help though!

Case closed. Will try to build a few Cmoys and maybe a mini3


I'd avoid the mini³ until your soldering skills improve substantially.  SMD devices will not take heat well and precision is required.  Watch the videos at tangentsoft.net for a start and definitely build a few, simple projects first.

post #69 of 70

Well you wont have success in life without also having some failures. You can always salvage the kit later once you understand it better.

post #70 of 70

While there is a moral to the above posts.I did mention briefly about testing for a HR soldered joint maybe I could elaborate on it.

                     A milliohm meter isnt something that everybody has. So the simple way is to test-if it is a double sided PCB

                       to test either side for resistance/ or if it is single sided or the track is on the same side

                         between the soldered connection and the copper track.

                          This is an occasion where you do not use an analogue MM but a Digital MM.

                            The reason being that more current is drawn by the analogue meter than is drawn by the Digital meter.

                              [The amount of current used to cause an indication on the display]

                                So less electrical pressure is applied to the joint and a more accurate test can be done.

                                  This works in a practical sense and  can narrow down the HR joint rather than going over every connection

                                   with your soldering iron hoping for the best.

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