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Stax Lambda SR connector pin configuration?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Hi all,

 

I've been so fortunate to be able to borrow a couple of Stax Lambda SRs which I'll shortly be listening to with my new headphone amp. However, I don't know the pin configuration of the connector - any of you can help with this?

 

Greetings from Denmark,

 

Jesper

 

Hi again,

 

Just found this thread:

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/589430/high-quality-stax-headphone-adapter

 

here on head-fi so I no longer need information about the connector pinout. However, it seems that this model of the Stax lambda has a high bias voltage (on the headband the model is called SR & then a lambda symbol) - about 560 VDC. Might one of you confirm this - I'd rather not bias it too high eek.gif

 

Best regards,

 

Jesper


Edited by evalon - 3/19/13 at 2:41am
post #2 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by evalon View Post

Hi all,

 

I've been so fortunate to be able to borrow a couple of Stax Lambda SRs which I'll shortly be listening to with my new headphone amp. However, I don't know the pin configuration of the connector - any of you can help with this?

 

Greetings from Denmark,

 

Jesper

 

Hi again,

 

Just found this thread:

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/589430/high-quality-stax-headphone-adapter

 

here on head-fi so I no longer need information about the connector pinout. However, it seems that this model of the Stax lambda has a high bias voltage (on the headband the model is called SR & then a lambda symbol) - about 560 VDC. Might one of you confirm this - I'd rather not bias it too high eek.gif

 

Best regards,

 

Jesper

Check how many pins the plug has. 6 pins 230V; 5 pins 580V

post #3 of 8

6 pins = Normal / 230V

5 pins = Pro / 580V

post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 

Hi both,

 

& thanks for replying ... The plug is a 5 pin type so from what you write I need to make 580 VDC for this version.

 

Thanks again for replying wink.gif

 

Jesper

post #5 of 8

Just to be extra sure, Lambda-series earcups have nameplates on the top, usually obscured by the headband/arc assembly.

 

Normal bias ones are blank. Lambda Pros have "PROFESSIONAL" printed on the plates. Lambda Signatures have "Signature" written across them, so on and so forth for all the other Lambda models.

 

That's how I'm sure my particular Lambda is supposed to be a Normal bias set, even though it was rebuilt with a 5-pin Pro bias cable before I got it. (I'm guessing 6-pin Normal bias cables weren't on hand for whoever built it.)

post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 

Hi NamelessPFG,

 

Thank you also for clarifying. It says "Signature" on top of the earcups and no signs of rebuilds - so altogether it looks like a Pro bias version ... 

 

So off to listening (soon) ;-)

 

Jesper

post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 

Hi again,

 

Just tried out the headphone this evening, yet it is conspicuously quiet. Just a very low sound in the right channel ... frown.gif ... It might of course be defective but otherwise I wonder if I've interpreted this connector drawing correctly:

 

stax-pro-bias-connector-schematic.png

 

I would say that this is the connector ON the headphone wire and I'm looking at the pins going OUT from the connector. Is that correct? In other words: I'm right now looking at the headphone connector's pins which are pointing towards my eyes...

 

I'd appreciate if one of you can confirm this as I'd rather not experiment too much ...

 

Greetings,

 

Jesper

post #8 of 8

For $8 I just made my own plug using 11 guage solid copper wire cut into 1.5" pins  (I used tin snips to cut the pins

 but this bent the pins so I had to straighten them with 2 pliers so if I ever do it again I'd use a hack saw to cut them instead).

And I used 2 part epoxy to make the plug.

 

 

The most important thing is to be sure to put the pins in the right holes in the socket before you drip the epoxy on the back of the pins

and make sure you don't get any epoxy on the socket or the amplifier, and also mix the epoxy for a few minutes b.c otherwise it wont harden (which I found out the hard way and it was quite messy having to remove the epoxy and start over again).

 

I also used shrink tubing over where I soldered the pins to the wires

and black electrical tape which I wrapped around the plug after the epoxy had hardened.

 

Anyway it works and looks really good and saved me $15 too.

I guess if I wasn't cheap I'd just spend the extra $15 and just buy the plug (that's the easiest way to do it). :)


Edited by scott16 - 5/16/16 at 4:49am
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