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The (new) HD800 Impressions Thread - Page 595

post #8911 of 18337
They pull straight down. And they are keyed so whe putting them back they must be turned till they go inn .
Al
post #8912 of 18337
Use the same program you use to play your music. It should have an EQ I it. . And raise the the bass about 3 db from 200 down. And at 6 k lower it about 3 db . That is a good start.

and use them for a while .

Al
post #8913 of 18337

In Audirvana + (not sure if it works in Audrvana free)

- got to preferences

- got to Audio Units

in the first drop down, select: AppleAUGraphicEQ- ensure Use AudioUnits Effects and Realtime is cheated here so you can cage on the fly without stopping A+

- Click configure & change to your delight - note that you can save presets

 

I spent a month playing around with this, large changes, subtle changes (<2.5db) and alway found I preferred it with no EQ so turned it off.  YMMV

 

Hope this helps,

M

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Surfski View Post

 

Current chain: Macbook Pro (Audirvana) > USB > Chord Hugo > HD800 with stock cable

post #8914 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by binot View Post

Hi.. Whilst awaiting the arrival of my new cable, I'd like to get some inputs on how difficult it is to remove the original HD800 cables. Are the plugs very tight? Is it a simple straight pull? I'm a bit nervous .. smily_headphones1.gif

Any tricks or tips?


Thanks
They can be pretty darn tight the first few times you unplug them, but they loosen up slightly as you cycle them. Careful to not pull the plug towards the metal screen or you will scratch it.
post #8915 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by binot View Post

Hi.. Whilst awaiting the arrival of my new cable, I'd like to get some inputs on how difficult it is to remove the original HD800 cables. Are the plugs very tight? Is it a simple straight pull? I'm a bit nervous .. smily_headphones1.gif

Any tricks or tips?


Thanks


Yep, the first time can be kinda tight. I used a wiggling twisting motion to get them out.  Like was said just be careful not to ding the paint or the screens.  A smooth controlled pull should do it.

post #8916 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by preproman View Post
 

Good points.  My F1J seems to bring out the bass in these headphones pretty well.  

I think a lot of that has to do with the high(80 ohms) output impedance of the F1J though, but a lot of people like the 800s on high output impedance amps, like OTL tube amps, so its not necessarily a bad thing.

 

Man i can't wait for my Super 7 and HD800s to show up!

post #8917 of 18337

cough120ohmIEC

post #8918 of 18337
Higher impedance amps will up the midbass, particularly given the spike in the hd800s impedance curve ~100hrz. That said, deep bass is noticeably tighter and improved, to my ears, via the low impedance setting on my mainline.
post #8919 of 18337

Alright, I might as well start asking. Amps in the $500-1000 range. I can probably go higher if area of diminishing returns is higher, but let's start there and see what's recommended. What's out there that will keep the resolution and transparency? I'm really not interested in adding color anywhere.

post #8920 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post
 

Alright, I might as well start asking. Amps in the $500-1000 range. I can probably go higher if area of diminishing returns is higher, but let's start there and see what's recommended. What's out there that will keep the resolution and transparency? I'm really not interested in adding color anywhere.


I noticed you ordered a Crack in the other thread. Interesting choice if what you want is not adding color. Unless of course, you're looking for a complementary amp, the reason I ordered the Questyle. It's supposed to do what you describe and there's a lot of praise (or hype) going around on it for giving a very transparent sound. I might be able to pick it up tomorrow, or Monday at latest. So far the notable amps I've heard the HD800 out of are the Crack and Vali. I can say the Vali is more transparent, and I can see why it gets a lot praise as a great amp for the HD800. It'll be interesting to see if I get completely blown away by the Questyle.

P.S. The K812 should be coming in tomorrow as well. This could be a fun weekend. :beerchug: 

post #8921 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post

Alright, I might as well start asking. Amps in the $500-1000 range. I can probably go higher if area of diminishing returns is higher, but let's start there and see what's recommended. What's out there that will keep the resolution and transparency? I'm really not interested in adding color anywhere.
Nothing I've heard in that range is really worth wasting time with. Go cheap and save for high end. Vali/M-Stage til then.
post #8922 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxvla View Post


Nothing I've heard in that range is really worth wasting time with. Go cheap and save for high end. Vali/M-Stage til then.


Well we'll see how the Questyle CMA800R stacks up, won't we? ;) project86 in the other thread highly endorses it, along with a couple others. Today it was mentioned in the same sentence as the ECP Audio L-2, perhaps the amp Tyll likes best for the HD800 (http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/jps-labs-abyss-ab-1266-planar-magnetic-headphones-page-2). Of course it could all be hype, but I'm excited! Anyways, technically it's not in the $500-$1000 range, though I got it in that range. Although, I don't think the place I got it from will be having it for sale again, at least not at the price I got it at. The manufacturer got nasty emails from other vendors when it gave the special price to the one vendor. This is disappointing because if it really is this good, I might get another one in the future to go balanced.


Edited by Sonido - 3/7/14 at 11:44pm
post #8923 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by roguegeek View Post
 

Alright, I might as well start asking. Amps in the $500-1000 range. I can probably go higher if area of diminishing returns is higher, but let's start there and see what's recommended. What's out there that will keep the resolution and transparency? I'm really not interested in adding color anywhere.

 

My suggestion would be to upgrade that crack order to a mainline RG.  I sampled a ton of amps with hd800's at CanJam, and the mainline really is among the best headphone tube amps out there.  Bottlehead does have sales periodically, and if you're able to sit tight for a short while, I think it is highly probable that they will offer it for $1k again at some point.  It is definitely a more sophisticated and time consuming build than a crack + speedball, but if you follow the directions carefully, no single solder joint is any harder than on a crack build.  In fact, installing the led's on the crack a-socket were probably more of a struggle for me than any one step on the mainline build (excluding identifying the one bad joint out of a couple hundred that initially threw a couple of my voltage checks off heh).  Bear in mind that a relatively decent soldering station and good automatic wire strippers are a must for this kit.  Also, in a pinch, and wife, child and work permitting, I live close to Pasadena and could probably lend a hand with trouble shooting if you ended up needing it.  

 

Also, just to follow up on Sonido's ECP L-2 reference, the L-2 is basically a "spud" derivative, which was an early design by the guys at bottlehead.  The mainline and L-2 share a lot of similarities: both are single gain stage, highly regulated, constant current fed, 6c45p parafeed tube amps with hq output transformers.  As Doc B has summarized:

 

Quote:
 Mainline was derived from our own $7500 6C45pi based 'big preamp/headphone amp' from 2003, designed quite a few years before the l-2 came about. And of course the spud concept goes back to the original WE417A based spud amp, built at a VALVE meeting in my basement around about 1994-5. Mainline is not a spud, as we use a hybrid shunt regulator that adds one more tube to the amp. I wasn't aware of the l-2. It is rather flattering to see others use a topology we have pioneered.

 

The mainline also incorporates bottlehead's excellent "submissive" fine/course attenuator circuit and se and balanced outputs, whereas the L-2 has se or balanced in but only se out.


Edited by skeptic - 3/8/14 at 12:55am
post #8924 of 18337
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonido View Post


I noticed you ordered a Crack in the other thread. Interesting choice if what you want is not adding color. Unless of course, you're looking for a complementary amp, the reason I ordered the Questyle. It's supposed to do what you describe and there's a lot of praise (or hype) going around on it for giving a very transparent sound. I might be able to pick it up tomorrow, or Monday at latest. So far the notable amps I've heard the HD800 out of are the Crack and Vali. I can say the Vali is more transparent, and I can see why it gets a lot praise as a great amp for the HD800. It'll be interesting to see if I get completely blown away by the Questyle.
P.S. The K812 should be coming in tomorrow as well. This could be a fun weekend. beerchug.gif  
The crack wasn't really for the HD 800. I'm sure I'll try the pairing, but the reason for that purchase was to just have fun building something. I heard it sounds great with the HD 600.

So if the budget raises to $1.5k, what are the options now?
post #8925 of 18337

So I'm looking into an HD800 setup sometime down the year and will need a stop gap amp until I can afford a Zana Deux. What are people's thoughts about the Crack vs the Vali vs the M-Stage for the HD800s? I should also add that I don't want something super bright and fatiguing.

 

Another question is would something like a Decware CSP-2 or Violectric V200 be endgame with the HD800s? A lot of people talk about the Zana as being the best for it but I'm wondering if the same quality can be had for closer to $1000


Edited by RAZRr1275 - 3/8/14 at 9:31am
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