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Speaker amps for headphones - Page 165

post #2461 of 2847
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

My Audio-GD Master-1 preamp is in Cincinnati already. I can't wait to receive it! :atsmile: 

 

Want me to pick it up for you:biggrin:

post #2462 of 2847
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

Brand new. I didn't go for the Master-9 because i don't need yet another headphone amp, plus the Master-1 is still the better design for a preamp. They are similar, but I wanted a dedicated preamp.

 

EDIT: and the extra $350 I'll be saving is going towards populating Aleph J and F4 boards :)

 

Are you doing a single F4 or mono blocks?

post #2463 of 2847
Quote:
Originally Posted by preproman View Post
 

 

Want me to pick it up for you:biggrin:

Hehe, I bet you'd love that! :tongue_smile:

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by preproman View Post
 

 

Are you doing a single F4 or mono blocks?

Stereo right now, certainly might do monoblocks in the future though. That's another huge chassis I have to buy though...I hate spending money on those things that don't improve SQ lol.

post #2464 of 2847
Darryl, I've listened to your 800s on my speaker amps and thought it sounded better than my Singlepower HP amp. At first I thought it was the difference in tube and SS or power difference but now I think it's the speaker amp doing a better job. That Singlepower amp cost north of $2k with pretty boutique caps and transformer upgrades. My mono's are almost 20 yrs old and was less than the cost of that headphone amp by several hundred dollars when new.
post #2465 of 2847
Description: Two-channel solid-state power amplifier. Rated power output: 200Wpc continuous into 8 ohms (23dBW), 400Wpc continuous into 4 ohms (23dBW). Rated full-power bandwidth: 5Hz-20kHz. S/N Ratio: >110dB, A-weighted. THD: 0.04%, 5Hz-20kHz, at full power into 8 ohms. Slew rate: >120V/µs. Damping factor: >450, equivalent to an output impedance below 0.018 ohms. Input impedance: 22k ohms. Input sensitivity: 1.68V for full output. Power consumption: 1500W.
Dimensions: 19" W by 6.6" H by 14.6" D. Weight: 67 lbs.
Serial number of sample reviewed: 067098.
Price: $1999 (balanced inputs add $500). Approximate number of dealers: 120.
Manufacturer: (1996) Mondial Designs Limited, Dobbs Ferry, NY. (2001) Mondial Division of Klipsch, 3502 Woodview Trace, Suite 200, Indianapolis, IN 46268. Tel: (866) 781-7284. Fax: (317) 860-9170. Web: www.klipsch.com/mondial .
Aragon 8008BB. AMPS
post #2466 of 2847

Gary,

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary in MD View Post
 


Mike:

 

I don't know that the Mills resistors will address the loss of resolution/dynamics you are hearing, since they are the same values as the concrete resistors.  I don't hear these particular problems with my Senns using the Millenia, but I'm driving the TBI amp using the AC brick, and I haven't really tried the cans with many other amps for comparison.  I'll try them with the Yulong DA-8 HP amp later to see if I hear any differences. 

 

I might also have to risk $250 on a Bushmaster.  At worst it is certainly better than a laptop DAC, so I could use it at work...

 

The $250 Beresford Bushmaster MkII (DAC/amp) is a terrific match for your HD650.  FlySweep told me to "just do it!"  I did, and I don't regret it at all.  

 

Rewinding a bit, FlySweep liked the HD600 on the MG3 + resistor box so much he sold his HD800, then he bought the HD650 and realized he liked the HD650 on the MG3 + resistor box more than the HD600. Then he bought the Bushmaster MkII and found it to be better still for the HD650, by a lot - nearly the equal of his Speedballed Bottlehead Crack with HD650.

 

I had been following in his footsteps,not buying the Crack (trying to avoid tubes), but having myself tried both the HD600 and the HD650 on the MG3 + resistor network, then going to the Bushmaster MkII. I am in complete agreement with FlySweep - that the Bushmaster MkII > HD650 is wonderful.  The Bushmaster MkII has no sibilance, but it's not rolled off in the highs either.  It offers amazing detail and control across the spectrum, and bass that's just remarkable.  

 

Going by how it sounds with my LCD-2 (using the Bushmaster's amp, not an external amp), I think you'd be amazed at how good the dynamics and resolution are with your LCD-3.  But the HD650's lower power requirement makes it a better match.  I prefer to use the Bushmaster's analog outputs to my iBasso PB2 for more power with balanced output to LCD-2 or HD800.  The HD600 and HD650 don't need that extra power.

 

This is off-topic for this thread, except to say there's at least two of us who prefer the following to our MG3 speaker amps for headphone use, but seriously, this has become my recommendation for any newbie wanting to get as much bang for the buck in a system that costs less than $800 total, before shipping:

 

HiFiMeDIY Sabre USB DAC. ES9023 Digital to Audio Converter 96kHz/24bit (incl USB to optical converter feature) - $46.00  (FlySweep is using this, where I'm using the Concero for SPDIF.)

http://us.hifimediy.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50

 

Micca Premium Optical Digital Audio Cable Toslink-to-Mini 1-Meter (3ft) - $12.95   (FlySweep is using this, where I'm using an Emotiva XCRCA coaxial digital cable)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088IBRJE

 

Beresford Bushmaster MkII DAC/amp (TC-7533) - $250.00

http://www.homehifi.co.uk/products/7533.html

 

Sennheiser HD650 - $399 to $499

http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-9969-HD-650-Headphones/dp/B00018MSNI

 

I hope FlySweep doesn't mind my sharing his impressions second-hand, but the fact is, I've yet to be disappointed by his guidance - it's obvious that we share the same tastes. He covers a lot of ground, buying and selling.  I've joked that I should just sit tight for at least a year and wait to see where he ends up!

 

:-)

 

Mike


Edited by zilch0md - 2/22/14 at 11:54am
post #2467 of 2847

I'm currently using a HiFlight recommendation -- the Temple Audio Bantam Gold for my HE-6 and HD650s. I'm loving the sound. Very detailed yet very musical at the same time. 

post #2468 of 2847

Hi everyone,

 

Trying to make speaker taps to 4pin xlr female.

 

A noobie question, what is high and low translate to right and left orientation of the speaker output ?

Can I assume the following ?,

 

Red High Positive = Right +

Red Low Positive = Left +

White High Negative = Right -

White Low Negative = Left -

 

So to connect to 4 pin XLR,

 

Pin 1 = Left +

Pin 2 = Left -

Pin 3 = Right +

Pin 4 = Right -

 

Is this correct ?

 

post #2469 of 2847
Not sure what you mean by high and low. Are you referring to the speaker terminals in the photo? If so, the top row (SYSTEM A) is for one pair of speakers and the bottom row (SYSTEM B) is for a second pair of speakers. This is so you can run another pair of speakers in a different room. There's a switch on the front panel that let's you choose A or B separately or run them both at the same time (A+B).

Are you going to use loudspeakers with this amp as well or use it only for headphones? If you're just going to use headphones, connect to the top row. Starting from the left in the photo, the red terminal is Right +, the first white terminal is Right -, the next white terminal is Left -, and the last red terminal is Left +.

se
post #2470 of 2847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Eddy View Post

Not sure what you mean by high and low. Are you referring to the speaker terminals in the photo? If so, the top row (SYSTEM A) is for one pair of speakers and the bottom row (SYSTEM B) is for a second pair of speakers. This is so you can run another pair of speakers in a different room. There's a switch on the front panel that let's you choose A or B separately or run them both at the same time (A+B).

Are you going to use loudspeakers with this amp as well or use it only for headphones? If you're just going to use headphones, connect to the top row. Starting from the left in the photo, the red terminal is Right +, the first white terminal is Right -, the next white terminal is Left -, and the last red terminal is Left +.

se

I thought I will buy this heat shrink for the termination, am I looking at the wrong one ?

And I will dedicate this amp just for the headphone.

 

post #2471 of 2847
OH! Ok, I see what you mean now. That heatshrink is labeled for a technique called bi-wiring. Some loudspeakers have their crossovers split into two separate sections, one for the high frequencies and one for the low frequencies and have four terminals on them. With bi-wiring, each speaker uses two speaker cables, one that connects to the high frequency terminals and the other connects to the low frequency terminals.

You can still use that heatshrink for your project. Use red for +. And black for -, and then use "high" and "low" to indicate left and right. Perhaps use "low" for left as both words start with the letter L.

se
post #2472 of 2847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Eddy View Post

OH! Ok, I see what you mean now. That heatshrink is labeled for a technique called bi-wiring. Some loudspeakers have their crossovers split into two separate sections, one for the high frequencies and one for the low frequencies and have four terminals on them. With bi-wiring, each speaker uses two speaker cables, one that connects to the high frequency terminals and the other connects to the low frequency terminals.



You can still use that heatshrink for your project. Use red for +. And black for -, and then use "high" and "low" to indicate left and right. Perhaps use "low" for left as both words start with the letter L.



se

 



Ah I got it now, thank you so much. So low doesn't map to right or left ? just a reference I guess.
Ok this is perfect, thank you again !.
post #2473 of 2847
Not in a loudspeaker bi-wire situation it doesn't. And often, loudspeaker cables aren't labeled for left and right anyway.

se
post #2474 of 2847

Your XLR pin numbers are correct.

 

Looking at the rear (connector side) of the XLR connector:

 

post #2475 of 2847

I know I said I would do a full on review of PM6004, although since then I've sold my LCD-3s as well as the banana adapters. Instead, the Marantz is hooked up to towers. I found it a better match for speakers as it's sonic signature is pleasant for watching movies or even listening to music. With the LCD-3s, they never got harsh, although at a bit of loss in the details. The tone controls were pretty useful as well for decent bass. I also found that there was a definite roll off in the extreme sub bass and upper treble, which wasn't the case with Emotiva. Emotiva was also a bit wider, however, the presentation overall was more engaging with LCD-3. Mids and vocals were more upfront and intimate. For some electronic music, it was slightly undesirable. Although for other slower, pop or hip hop music, it was very pleasing. I found the Marantz to have a better sense of prat over the Emotiva. The PM6004 performed better with slower and fast paced music. Stuff like 128+ BPM trance or 140 BPM dubstep wasn't the most favourable. The tone controls really did help with the bass and punch, but still left a bit to be desired. If you can find a PM6004 used, I'd definitely recommend it. Even at it's lowered $399 retail, it might be worth giving it a shot. If you listen to slower-medium paced music and like vocals, this definitely deserves a shot. Also, if you have had any problems with finding amps too bright with any of the planars, I'd also consider this.

 

I should also mention that as you from Source Direct (Native) to Audio EX2 to Audio EX1, the amp indeed does change character. The sound gets more upfront, less smooth and more aggressive, which depending on the music is more preferred.

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