Want me to pick it up for you
Brand new. I didn't go for the Master-9 because i don't need yet another headphone amp, plus the Master-1 is still the better design for a preamp. They are similar, but I wanted a dedicated preamp.
EDIT: and the extra $350 I'll be saving is going towards populating Aleph J and F4 boards :)
Are you doing a single F4 or mono blocks?
Hehe, I bet you'd love that!
Stereo right now, certainly might do monoblocks in the future though. That's another huge chassis I have to buy though...I hate spending money on those things that don't improve SQ lol.
I don't know that the Mills resistors will address the loss of resolution/dynamics you are hearing, since they are the same values as the concrete resistors. I don't hear these particular problems with my Senns using the Millenia, but I'm driving the TBI amp using the AC brick, and I haven't really tried the cans with many other amps for comparison. I'll try them with the Yulong DA-8 HP amp later to see if I hear any differences.
I might also have to risk $250 on a Bushmaster. At worst it is certainly better than a laptop DAC, so I could use it at work...
The $250 Beresford Bushmaster MkII (DAC/amp) is a terrific match for your HD650. FlySweep told me to "just do it!" I did, and I don't regret it at all.
Rewinding a bit, FlySweep liked the HD600 on the MG3 + resistor box so much he sold his HD800, then he bought the HD650 and realized he liked the HD650 on the MG3 + resistor box more than the HD600. Then he bought the Bushmaster MkII and found it to be better still for the HD650, by a lot - nearly the equal of his Speedballed Bottlehead Crack with HD650.
I had been following in his footsteps,not buying the Crack (trying to avoid tubes), but having myself tried both the HD600 and the HD650 on the MG3 + resistor network, then going to the Bushmaster MkII. I am in complete agreement with FlySweep - that the Bushmaster MkII > HD650 is wonderful. The Bushmaster MkII has no sibilance, but it's not rolled off in the highs either. It offers amazing detail and control across the spectrum, and bass that's just remarkable.
Going by how it sounds with my LCD-2 (using the Bushmaster's amp, not an external amp), I think you'd be amazed at how good the dynamics and resolution are with your LCD-3. But the HD650's lower power requirement makes it a better match. I prefer to use the Bushmaster's analog outputs to my iBasso PB2 for more power with balanced output to LCD-2 or HD800. The HD600 and HD650 don't need that extra power.
This is off-topic for this thread, except to say there's at least two of us who prefer the following to our MG3 speaker amps for headphone use, but seriously, this has become my recommendation for any newbie wanting to get as much bang for the buck in a system that costs less than $800 total, before shipping:
HiFiMeDIY Sabre USB DAC. ES9023 Digital to Audio Converter 96kHz/24bit (incl USB to optical converter feature) - $46.00 (FlySweep is using this, where I'm using the Concero for SPDIF.)
Micca Premium Optical Digital Audio Cable Toslink-to-Mini 1-Meter (3ft) - $12.95 (FlySweep is using this, where I'm using an Emotiva XCRCA coaxial digital cable)
Beresford Bushmaster MkII DAC/amp (TC-7533) - $250.00
Sennheiser HD650 - $399 to $499
I hope FlySweep doesn't mind my sharing his impressions second-hand, but the fact is, I've yet to be disappointed by his guidance - it's obvious that we share the same tastes. He covers a lot of ground, buying and selling. I've joked that I should just sit tight for at least a year and wait to see where he ends up!
Trying to make speaker taps to 4pin xlr female.
A noobie question, what is high and low translate to right and left orientation of the speaker output ?
Can I assume the following ?,
Red High Positive = Right +
Red Low Positive = Left +
White High Negative = Right -
White Low Negative = Left -
So to connect to 4 pin XLR,
Pin 1 = Left +
Pin 2 = Left -
Pin 3 = Right +
Pin 4 = Right -
Is this correct ?
I thought I will buy this heat shrink for the termination, am I looking at the wrong one ?
And I will dedicate this amp just for the headphone.
I know I said I would do a full on review of PM6004, although since then I've sold my LCD-3s as well as the banana adapters. Instead, the Marantz is hooked up to towers. I found it a better match for speakers as it's sonic signature is pleasant for watching movies or even listening to music. With the LCD-3s, they never got harsh, although at a bit of loss in the details. The tone controls were pretty useful as well for decent bass. I also found that there was a definite roll off in the extreme sub bass and upper treble, which wasn't the case with Emotiva. Emotiva was also a bit wider, however, the presentation overall was more engaging with LCD-3. Mids and vocals were more upfront and intimate. For some electronic music, it was slightly undesirable. Although for other slower, pop or hip hop music, it was very pleasing. I found the Marantz to have a better sense of prat over the Emotiva. The PM6004 performed better with slower and fast paced music. Stuff like 128+ BPM trance or 140 BPM dubstep wasn't the most favourable. The tone controls really did help with the bass and punch, but still left a bit to be desired. If you can find a PM6004 used, I'd definitely recommend it. Even at it's lowered $399 retail, it might be worth giving it a shot. If you listen to slower-medium paced music and like vocals, this definitely deserves a shot. Also, if you have had any problems with finding amps too bright with any of the planars, I'd also consider this.
I should also mention that as you from Source Direct (Native) to Audio EX2 to Audio EX1, the amp indeed does change character. The sound gets more upfront, less smooth and more aggressive, which depending on the music is more preferred.