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Speaker amps for headphones - Page 111

post #1651 of 3118
This may be a dumb question but why do you need to use a bridge amp anyway
I would just remove the bridge module. And use it. I know some amps it is more complex then
Others but why not ??
post #1652 of 3118
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary in MD View Post
 

Okay... then I give up? :blink:  The Wee will not blow up due to the type of amp used.  I was probably going to get one anyway.  :biggrin:.

 

Welcome to head-fi. Sorry about the... oh wait, you're the one selling the kool-aid. Nevermind :ph34r:

post #1653 of 3118
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALRAINBOW View Post

This may be a dumb question but why do you need to use a bridge amp anyway
I would just remove the bridge module. And use it. I know some amps it is more complex then
Others but why not ??

 

You can't just remove a bridge module. There's no such thng as a bridge module... what are you talking about?

post #1654 of 3118

Okay, enough about the Wee and its explosive potential.  :deadhorse:.

 

 

And now for something completely different:  has anybody used this cable with their HD650/600? 

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2QJLY8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1O9P832C6CJAU&coliid=I37K5DUIWB84DR

 

I need it in order to tie into my speaker tap.  I was going to try the Senns with both the Cyclops and the Millenia/MG3 (using the same resistor box I use with the LCD-3s, knowing it probably isn't optimal).  Any (explosive/non-explosive) issues with this setup that I should know about?

post #1655 of 3118
Well I am far from a expert but the term bridging in an amp means combining both channels to make one larger output amp

As when used for a sub woofer . In my old system I used david halfler amps in bridge mod for the subs. So hence a modular. Change in the output stage. Now maybe I am wrong in this but, do not get annoyed as we all including me are trying to help the collective here ok.

Al D
post #1656 of 3118
Gary you are a funny dude man. Lmao.
post #1657 of 3118
Gary

The cables look fine it is a bal cable and will keep the amps output separate. . Cheap too. Good find.
post #1658 of 3118
Quote:
Originally Posted by m17xr2b View Post
 

Just wondering, would something like this make an improvement to the TBI? http://www.aloaudio.com/the-passport

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary in MD View Post


It would probably be able to drive the Millenia, but there are lots of 12v options out there for less money -- as in buying lithium batteries., or the LiFePo batteries Mike (Zilch) has been using.  In addition, according to Jan Plummer and verified by various folks, including Mike, the amp really wants more than 12v.  There are also lots of options for more voltage, including the tried (by lots of folks on Audio Circle) and true approach of using a pair of SLA batteries in series, or LiFePo, or some of the lithium batteries for laptops.  And then there are linear power supplies.  All of these solutions can be had for <$200, i.e., less than the passport. 

 

 

I certainly agree with Gary's response - the Passport's 12VDC output will allow the MG3 only 10Wpc into 8-Ohm (vs. 24VDC, which allows the MG3 to deliver 32Wpc into 8-Ohm).

 

But I'd like to offer some warnings about my 24VDC battery-powered solution for the MG3.

 

I am currently using this 3600 mAh, 6-cell LiPo to power the MG3 at 25.2V (fully charged) down to 20.4V (when I put it back on the charger):

 

 

And I recently purchased this larger, 5300 mAh, 6-cell, LiPo (having the same length as the one above), on sale at the manufacturer's web site:  http://www.gensaceusa.com/98p-30c-5300-6s1p.html

 

 

These things are somewhat dangerous, however, as this 30C-rated, 5300 mAh version can supply 159 Amps continuously, without overheating (peak current is much higher still).  

 

Their discharge must be monitored during use, to prevent then from dropping below 3.0V per cell - which can damage the battery and even cause fires that emit toxic soot and smoke, even if they don't burn down your house.  Charging requires some know-how, too, using a "balanced charger" like the Thunder AC6, to ensure that individual cells are not charged to voltages higher than 4.2V, which again, can cause damage and increase the possibility of a fire.

 

Programmable audible (mega loud) voltage alarm for LiPo packs

http://www.amazon.com/Integy-C23212-Voltage-Checker-Warning/dp/B003Y6E6IE

 

 

 

 

Charger for LiPo batteries used with Stepdance portable rig

http://www.amazon.com/Thunder-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Software/dp/9269806723

 

In other words, I don't recommend this solution unless you're "into batteries" and can enjoy the ritual of being disciplined in safe handling.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris J View Post
 

 

Hi Roberto, (makes you sound like a ladies man, yes?)

My opinion.................use the two resistor network.

I like the idea of resistor #3 in your diagram.

#2 gives you the attentuation you may need, #3 adds some damping to the system i.e. makes the amp output impedance appear to be low (in some respects).

Personally, I'm not a big fan of using an old receiver with a 120 Ohm (or 220 Ohm or whatever) between the headphones and the power amp, it's just not very versatile, with many headphones the interaction between the series resistor and the headphones can create frequency response aberations.

A properly chosen value for Resistor #3 greatly reduces that effect.

You guys already do all this when you chose R2 = 12 Ohms, R3 = 4 Ohms (for example)!

 

I may have "a bit of bias".......  :wink_face:

I've worked as a power Engineer for about 25 years, + I spent a year designing Analog Signal processing gear.

 

@Chris J - I see this again and again in various articles I've found online: the recommendation to use a 3:1 ratio (where the series resistor has three times the value of the parallel resistor) when designing a 2-resistor network.

 

Can you please tell me what happens sonically, with dynamic headphones especially (as opposed to planar magnetic), when the ratio is increased or decreased?

 

As previously posted, the resistor network that Jan Plummer (of TBI Audio) built for my MG3 amp uses two resistors, but their values have a ratio of 5:1.

 

 

Thanks!

 

Mike


Edited by zilch0md - 12/1/13 at 12:03pm
post #1659 of 3118
I fly and race almost anything RC and lipo,s are very dangerous I have many packs and keep them in a gun case in an outside garage .

If the case is exposed to air in will burst into flames , no ignition needed it is chemistry of the batteries. I would read up on these batteries first and the smaller the better for you.

A 5300 ma lipo. Is an enormous battery too.

Al D
post #1660 of 3118
One more thing too . If the batteries go to low in discharge they will not charge , there is a work around but it is not cool to do but we all do it. So if you chose this path you will need to check battery as you go. Most applications for these batteries has built in circuitry to shutdown the device at a pre determined point a little below the 3.70 volt per cell for lipo. And life is a little different and big in Europe more then here.

Al D
post #1661 of 3118
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALRAINBOW View Post

I fly and race almost anything RC and lipo,s are very dangerous I have many packs and keep them in a gun case in an outside garage .

If the case is exposed to air in will burst into flames , no ignition needed it is chemistry of the batteries. I would read up on these batteries first and the smaller the better for you.

A 5300 ma lipo. Is an enormous battery too.

Al D

 

+1 

 

But tens of thousands of RC hobbyists manage to use them safely, while a handful don't, unfortunately.

post #1662 of 3118
And the unfortunate are on you tube. Lol.
I landed my Italian. PROTOS. 550 class as it laned I thought I seen some smoke as I got closer it was in flLames . Now I am trying get the battery out while my hands are burning.

The battery was not damaged . And the biggest with rc is the dam esc. Flame ups.

Good luck . Why are you guys not just buying a 24 volt power supply from someone or even one from a CPU They are 12 volt and 24 volt cheap to, but it is switched no transformer though. How about the Paul Haynes guy. That is what he does.

Al D
post #1663 of 3118

I'd never heard of him, but his website doesn't seem to offer a 24V 4A supply...

 

http://www.paulhynesdesign.com/page7.html

 

I really like the idea of a current limiter, though.

 

Mike

post #1664 of 3118
Email him. He is the guru master of power regulation in this hobby of ours . He devices are the jam in DIY . Ask brunk or someone here will know. He can make you what you need in a box with connectors too. Do not be confused at his website it shows almost nothing I know, but the guy is the jam.

Al D
post #1665 of 3118
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris J View Post
 

 

Hi Robert,

............

To be honest, the 2B-LP is not in an optimum place for headphone listening unless I want to either lay on the floor or put a chair in the middle of the "TV Room". LOL!

I really bought it to drive the rear channels in my surround sound system plus I wanted balanced inputs.

Chris

Hi Chris

 

I bought my current 2BLP pro for the HT also, first for the center channel then it was moved for surround duty, but it was replaced both times with more powerful amps to par with the 4BSST running the mains plus I'm running Dynaudio all round.

 

Robert

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