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Speaker amps for headphones - Page 91

post #1351 of 3116
Amps like that typically drive the front panel headphone jack from the speaker outputs, using some simple resistors to help prevent blowing up headphones.

se
post #1352 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakensaur View Post
 

I'm new to this whole speaker taps to power headphones thing, 

 

I wanted to ask if anyone is familiar with the yamaha A-S500 and using it to power headphones such as the LCD2, and if there is any glaring error with doing this.

 

 

 

--- assume i know nothing,

 

Because as it happens, i don't.

I have the Yamaha A-S2000, so I am familiar with this product line. There is no glaring error at all. However, please ensure you have all volume levels set to zero before playing back anything to prevent any mishaps. I would like to have seen the 500 model have a direct input, bypassing the preamp section of the integrated, but it's a pretty minor thing if you already enjoy the Yamaha's Natural Sound.

 

Have at it!

post #1353 of 3116

Awesome stuff!

 

i always turn the amp to zero when turning it off. in the past with headphone amps it prevents heart attacks if it was a little too high the last time you were using it.

 

Thanks for the fast response ;)

post #1354 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakensaur View Post
 

Awesome stuff!

 

i always turn the amp to zero when turning it off. in the past with headphone amps it prevents heart attacks if it was a little too high the last time you were using it.

 

Thanks for the fast response ;)

You're most welcome. Don't hesitate to ask us questions, it's the one's that don't ask questions that can run into trouble lol.

 

Keep us updated on your impressions!

:beerchug:

post #1355 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cakensaur View Post
 

I'm new to this whole speaker taps to power headphones thing, 

 

I wanted to ask if anyone is familiar with the yamaha A-S500 and using it to power headphones such as the LCD2, and if there is any glaring error with doing this.

 

 

 

--- assume i know nothing,

 

Because as it happens, i don't.


You know as much as I did 8 months ago, which means you know to ask the question. 

 

That Yamaha amp should be able to drive the LCD-2s, with no risk of hurting them, because Its 85-wpc power output into the cans' 60 ohms will be less than the power that the Audeze's can handle.  This risk assessment assumes you can correctly connect the speaker tap to the amp speaker outs and the tap to a balanced (XLR) Audeze cable. 

 

The sound quality will depend on whether the hardware is a good match.  You might get great sound with no noise, or you might get crappy sound with lots of noise.  You can't fix the quality of the sound -- the combination either meshes well or it doesn't, but you can fix the noise problem by putting resistor circuits between the amp and the speaker tap if necessary.

 

Resistor circuits would also give you more control over volume.  Depending on gain throughout your system, you might have sufficient volume control without resistors... or you might go from 0-100 dBs with just a tiny bump.   You could do a bunch of analysis... or you could just try it -- again you can't hurt the cans and you can protect your ears by just powering everything on at zero volume and carefully dialing up until it gets too loud.  If it gets too loud too fast for your liking, then add resistors (they are cheap -- <$5 each).  There are pictures of how to do it earlier in this thread.

 

So if you want to try this, you need to get a speaker tap, basically a 4-wire piece of cable (some of us just learned recently that you want unshielded cable) with a female XLR plug on one end and the connectors of your choice on the other end (bare wire, banana plugs, or spades... depends on what you like or are willing to pay for).  Pretty much anybody that makes cables can make a speaker tap, or you can do it yourself. 

 

Then you need balanced HP cables to fit the LCDs. You could go directly from the HP to the amp, but that means making a separate Audeze cable just for speaker amps, and swapping it if you decide to listen to another amp.  Again, any cable maker can make you a balanced Audeze cable, or they sell their own for $80 (the LCD-3 comes with both types of cables... that's the real reason why they charge an extra $1K for the cans... :biggrin:).

 

That's really all there is to it.  Except of course that you have to report back here how it sounds...

post #1356 of 3116

Dammmmm you guys all beat me to it.  That's what I get for being so wordy...

post #1357 of 3116

Gary, don't apologize for being thorough.  Nice summary you did there!

post #1358 of 3116

@potterma  or anyone else with a LDR-based preamp, or someone with scientific explanation. I had received this article today in regards to my LDR pre. http://www.tortugaaudio.com/hiz-controlsoftware-improves-ldr-passive-preamps/

 

Can someone make sense of this if it's in fact a worthwhile upgrade if my system is already impedance-matched and why? Thanks!

post #1359 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

@potterma  or anyone else with a LDR-based preamp, or someone with scientific explanation. I had received this article today in regards to my LDR pre. http://www.tortugaaudio.com/hiz-controlsoftware-improves-ldr-passive-preamps/

 

Can someone make sense of this if it's in fact a worthwhile upgrade if my system is already impedance-matched and why? Thanks!

If your LDR input impedance really is in the 1 to 5 k ohm range, then you should definitely see  better coupling between your DAC and the LDR.  I don't know how much improvement in dynamics you'll experience, but it would certainly be worth the upgrade since its a software upgrade and requires no hardware mods.  

 

Just measured my LSA at a minimum of 12k ohms (zero attenuation) to 45k ohms (maximum attenuation).

 

They did a good job of describing what they are doing and why.  Not sure I can add anything to their description that would be useful.

 

Update and let us know!  

post #1360 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by potterma View Post
 

If your LDR input impedance really is in the 1 to 5 k ohm range, then you should definitely see  better coupling between your DAC and the LDR.  I don't know how much improvement in dynamics you'll experience, but it would certainly be worth the upgrade since its a software upgrade and requires no hardware mods.  

 

Just measured my LSA at a minimum of 12k ohms (zero attenuation) to 45k ohms (maximum attenuation).

 

They did a good job of describing what they are doing and why.  Not sure I can add anything to their description that would be useful.

 

Update and let us know!  

OK thanks, I was thinking the same (source coupling), but I just needed some reinforcement that it is in fact a worthwhile endeavor. I'd suspect my LDR is similar to yours with impedance range. Glad I went the software controlled route, I knew there would be future benefits, just not so soon! I was expecting future boards for upgrades, but this is quite convenient. Thanks Potterma!

:beerchug:

post #1361 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary in MD View Post

Then you need balanced HP cables to fit the LCDs.

If the amp's outputs aren't bridged (not likely in this case) then you can make a speaker adapter that uses a female 1/4" jack. Just have to make sure you never use it on an amp that has bridged outputs.

se
post #1362 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

OK thanks, I was thinking the same (source coupling), but I just needed some reinforcement that it is in fact a worthwhile endeavor. I'd suspect my LDR is similar to yours with impedance range. Glad I went the software controlled route, I knew there would be future benefits, just not so soon! I was expecting future boards for upgrades, but this is quite convenient. Thanks Potterma!

:beerchug:

 

Throw a meter on your input and measure the input impedance with volume setting (just because I'm curious, and if you've nothing better to do :) ).  My LDR isn't quite stock configuration.  The beauty of DIY :)  I have a mod that should get me into the 50k ohm input range... Now, where did those parts go....  :)

post #1363 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Eddy View Post


If the amp's outputs aren't bridged (not likely in this case) then you can make a speaker adapter that uses a female 1/4" jack. Just have to make sure you never use it on an amp that has bridged outputs.

se

 

And measure to avoid letting the magic smoke out!

post #1364 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by potterma View Post
 

 

Throw a meter on your input and measure the input impedance with volume setting (just because I'm curious, and if you've nothing better to do :) ).  My LDR isn't quite stock configuration.  The beauty of DIY :)  I have a mod that should get me into the 50k ohm input range... Now, where did those parts go....  :)

I will do that soon as I get done spinning this classic gem on my vinyl/speakers. His voice just managed to help me better define the center image too, so I'm extra happy :atsmile:

post #1365 of 3116
Quote:
Originally Posted by potterma View Post

And measure to avoid letting the magic smoke out!

Right. Just check to see that you have continuity between left and right speaker ground terminals.

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