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ER4 -What am I missing? - Page 5

post #61 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by castleofargh View Post

when the er4 is the high mids champion, the w4 is a no man's land in those frequencies.  to me it is some kind of anti-er4.
they both have some technical qualities and charms but signature wise, they're night and day.

 
I agree partly. Even though they are not similar off the bat, the w4 requires less eq than most to become neutral like the er4s, and it is a very capable iem that can handle bass well.

The er4s is a high/mid/bass champion. The Only thing i find it lacks is a very small amount of sub bass. With eq... Perfect.
post #62 of 63

Bass freq are a mystery to me. the more i know the less i seem to understand.  what is sure for me is that FR are far from enough to tell me how i will feel the bass.

i don't know how much is about decay, how much is about reverb, or even vibrations on the body, and i surely can't figure out how something millimeters long is capable of producing a 30hz air movement.

anyway on most flat FR with BA based iems i don't get enough bass. be it good stuff like er4 or cheap xba1, i need a bump on BA's bass that i usually don't need on dynamic drivers.

post #63 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by castleofargh View Post

Bass freq are a mystery to me. the more i know the less i seem to understand.  what is sure for me is that FR are far from enough to tell me how i will feel the bass.

i don't know how much is about decay, how much is about reverb, or even vibrations on the body, and i surely can't figure out how something millimeters long is capable of producing a 30hz air movement.

anyway on most flat FR with BA based iems i don't get enough bass. be it good stuff like er4 or cheap xba1, i need a bump on BA's bass that i usually don't need on dynamic drivers.

 

Do you have a parametric EQ?  Don't use any junk stock EQ settings. Try this with the westone 4 and let me know what you think:

 

http://handtokey.blogspot.com/2013/02/westone-4r-eq-settings.html

 

That will give you a reference starting point.  You should be able to use those settings in any decent parametric or graphic equilizer with a db scale.  Once you have that close, everything should sound more open, and the bass should sound "better".  You will notice more sub bass as well as the mid bass is no longer masking it.

 

From that point, since everything is sounding fairly flat, boost the 20hz to 60hz area as much as you want to get deep punchy bass.  If you want more "full" warm bass, raise everything from 20-100 or even 200hz as much as you want.  With most EQ software, you want to make sure you lower the overall "gain" or volume of the whole EQ graph to avoid clipping.  If they clip or distort it's either the EQ gain is set too high or your a massive basshead. :-P haha.

 

The settings don't need to be identical.  In fact, you really just need to lower the two big humps, one in the mid bass and one in the treble and boost the dip in the treble.  The curves aren't critical.  That will reveal the most details and then you can boost the bass from there.  This will allow you to not only hear more bass, but the details that go with the bass instruments to make the bass sound more tight and punchy.

 

Let me know what you think...

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