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Beyer DT770 Pro/ 80 Detachable cable MOD - Page 17

post #241 of 255

Which one of these connectors should I get for my DT770 Pro 250ohm detachable cable mod?

Either this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-1-8-Mini-Female-Headphone-Jack-Plug-Stereo-Audio-Panel-Mount-Philmore-NEW-/171829358278?hash=item2801d3eec6:g:r3AAAOSw9r1WDFRK

or this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/CESS-10-Pcs-3-5mm-Stereo-TRS-Female-Socket-Connector-Panel-Mount-Solder/141760177345?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Ddcfb2f165c2a490e82b77d147eb54add%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D171829358278

post #242 of 255
Thread Starter 

This one will cover most of the hole that the cable is in, the ones you linked would expose more of it. Use this and use a tiny bit of hot glue around the connector on the inside afterwards to ensure that you have a total seal there.

 

http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14088

 


Edited by PETEREK - 11/10/15 at 7:28pm
post #243 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by PETEREK View Post
 

This one will cover most of the hole that the cable is in, the ones you linked would expose more of it. Use this and use a tiny bit of hot glue around the connector on the inside afterwards to ensure that you have a total seal there.

 

http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14088

 

Oh cool. Thanks!

post #244 of 255
Has anyone tried this with in ear headphones?
post #245 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by raunaksardesai View Post

Has anyone tried this with in ear headphones?


Yes - it was a fiddly job though - lunashops sells the pins requires for the job but you will need some fine motor skills to cut the hole correctly to fit them - barely worth the bother but a fun project

Jason

 

post #246 of 255


Just completed the cable mod on my dt770s that I haven't used in awhile because of a broken cable. They work now! Was inspired to do this from this thread and this video...http://youtu.be/D4cun3U-moQ

First time ever soldering anything. Was frustrating at times but got it done and they sound just as good as before... Maybe even better.

Thanks!
post #247 of 255

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I'm having some trouble getting the solder to stick on the three (red, blue and copper) wires in the DT770 cable.

 

I read somewhere that these are coated in enamel and this needs to be burned off - is this true? Any tips on the best way to get solder to stick  to these wires would be much appreciated!

 

Cheers

post #248 of 255

Yes, you must burn off the enamel.  This applies to almost all headphones being produced today.  This is discussed earlier in this thread, and elsewhere around the site.  Try using a lighter, but don't let the copper turn black, then you applied too much heat if it oxidizes like that.  There may be better suggestions.

post #249 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonlad1 View Post
 

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I'm having some trouble getting the solder to stick on the three (red, blue and copper) wires in the DT770 cable.

 

I read somewhere that these are coated in enamel and this needs to be burned off - is this true? Any tips on the best way to get solder to stick  to these wires would be much appreciated!

 

Cheers

Yes - they are enamelled wires. Dipping them in a bit of flux first helps. We dip the ends in flux paste and then use a very hot soldering iron - over 400 degrees C and let the solder flow into it. That does the trick every time but if you using a basic soldering iron and having real trouble, I have herd that resting the wire on an aspirin and tin the ends while it is pressed against it works - heating the aspirin releases some kind of acid that helps eat the enamel 

 

Hope this helps

 

Jason

post #250 of 255

I have pair of T51i's with a broken cable and would love to do this mod. 

 

I was thinking of 2 mounted mono sockets with a dual 1/4" mono to stereo cable

 

Anyone done this mod? Am I going about this the right way?

 

Ben

post #251 of 255

Even 3.5mm sockets seem possibly too large to me for those cups.  You could try it, and make sure you reterminate the dual end of that cable to 3.5mm plugs, just in case you hadn't thought of that.

 

Going hardwired is much easier with the tiny DT1350 and T51, I think.  Here's my recabled T50p, using Mogami 2893 sleeved with paracord.

post #252 of 255

Welp, apparently I suck at soldering, because I broke one of the leads off the right driver of my DT770-80. Screwed up the solder joint and ended up overheating one of them, causing it to break off. :(

 

Will replacing just one of the drivers with a new one seriously mess with the sound? My existing drivers have been burned in for 9 years...... (though I haven't used these particular cans very much in the past 4-5 years). Looks like I can order one for about $60.

 

Also, what AWG wire are you guys using for connecting the new jack to the leads on the driver? I tried using some 22awg (I think?) I had laying around, but it seemed way too stiff to move around easily without putting some serious pressure on the leads.

post #253 of 255
Quote:
Originally Posted by TekMonkey View Post
 

Welp, apparently I suck at soldering, because I broke one of the leads off the right driver of my DT770-80. Screwed up the solder joint and ended up overheating one of them, causing it to break off. :(

 

Will replacing just one of the drivers with a new one seriously mess with the sound? My existing drivers have been burned in for 9 years...... (though I haven't used these particular cans very much in the past 4-5 years). Looks like I can order one for about $60.

 

Also, what AWG wire are you guys using for connecting the new jack to the leads on the driver? I tried using some 22awg (I think?) I had laying around, but it seemed way too stiff to move around easily without putting some serious pressure on the leads.

You may well be able to repair the driver - or if you are in the UK I could help you with it. You can re-solder the voice coil to the bottom of the contact and glue it back in place. If you do change the driver it will need a bit of a burn in and they are not all the same - the impedance can vary by a few ohms from driver to driver but your ears will compensate after a bit of listening time. You could measure the impedance of your working driver and ask beyer really nicely for one that matches - they may do it.

post #254 of 255

I am having trouble with my Head Fi,  I can post but not start a new thread on this computer.  Anyway, I tried to do the cable mod and everything went smooth and looked exactly like the vids I watched.  When done the left side would not play.  In messing around with the connections, the little metal clips pulled out of the driver.  I tried to push them in but they will not stay.  I addition, one broke.  Now what? 

 

Did I just trash my phones?  Can someone assist me in getting these up and running.

 

Please PM me if you can help.

 

thank you

post #255 of 255

If a pin falls out completely, superglue it back in and reconnect the voice coil lead(s).  Only one lead per pin.  Search for the leads beforehand, make sure that you can find them first, if not, you can write off that driver as effectively dead.  A 10-15x magnifying loupe plus plenty of light can help.

The pins are just to facilitate connecting the cable's wires to the voice coil leads.

 

If you actually lose a segment of lead (or both) but can still reach them, tin the tip of the lead(s) then solder on a tiny length of spare wire so you can create a connection to the shortened leads from the pins, but you will lose a bit of impedance if you lose a portion of a lead or both, and this may or may not impact sound quality depending on how much length you lose, and always for the worse if sound is affected.

 

 

Edit: I should add, always practice on something else before trying to mod your headphone.  Get a cheap on-ear headphone from Big Lots! or a dollar store or something (for those of you in the USA).  Recable the cheapo with Canare, Mogami, or mil-spec SPC wire (which can all be had off the web cheaply for us in the US).  Neutriks and other Chinese junk connectors are very cheap as well and not hard to get for most people.  You can also practice soldering and desoldering on dead/busted desktop computer motherboards and PCI cards or theater receivers and other such electronics.  Pull one out of someone else's trash or something if need be.

Better that you screw up on a device of little or no value than your own DT770, I say.


Edited by Mad Max - 4/26/16 at 8:27pm
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