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Beyer DT770 Pro/ 80 Detachable cable MOD - Page 8

post #106 of 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by ExabytE View Post
 

As you wish. :o

Later I'll paint them, sleeve the wire between housings a change the pads to velour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Please could you tell us where you sourced your replacement female jack socket? Does it cover the hole or did you have to do anything differently to fill it?

 

Thanks!


Edited by jonlad1 - 8/9/14 at 7:35pm
post #107 of 129
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonlad1 View Post
 

 

Hey man, just a couple of quick questions about your mods - does the new nut fit the Lumberg (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1502-02-Lumberg-Socket-3-5mm-Jack-4-Way-/141311184027?pt=AU_Pro_Audio&hash=item20e6cd8c9b&_uhb=12.5mm 3.5mm jack you were using? For closed cans, would this be enough to close the gap or do you still need the foam?

 

Can you give the size of the nut so we can source?

 

Do you find the new female jack is secure after inserting/removing the cable constantly? I'm a little worried the jack socket may come loose from the headphone body after a while.

 

I wasnt sure which Beyers to get, so bought the DT990 250s, DT770 250s and the DT770 Premium 32s, I will be doing your mods on the ones I keep! They look so mint....

 

Any up to date suggestions/tips on stuff you would do differently after becoming a seasoned pro at this?? :)

 

EDIT - also, whats a good site for getting quality braided headphone cables from? I've done a google and found a couple but didnt really have what you guys have managed to find...

 

Thanks mate

 

You probably aren't going to find a cheap site to get a braided cable from, most places that do that aren't very cheap. Have you considered doing it yourself? You're already on the DIY path, why not give a cable a try?

 

Here's one with that nut on it, but it's a 4-pole connector for use with a mic or a balanced connection

http://octopart.com/1502+02-lumberg-7282821

 

You could order one of those and one of these and just use the nut off the other one. I don't know what size nut it is or I would just tell you to get one at a hardware store. You could do that and just bring one of these with you to find the exact size nut you need.

http://octopart.com/klb+4-lumberg-7502636

 

 

 

When you put the 3.5mm chassis on, put loctite sealant on the threads to prevent it from coming off until you actually want it off. When I did the detachable mods that are in this thread I used a foam padding, but now I use hot glue to secure things. Do that instead, hot glue gun kits are cheap as heck.

 

 

 

And finally, what kind of sound are you wanting from the headphone, and what environment are they going to be used in?

post #108 of 129

Hey thanks for the reply :)

 

When I braided, I mean this type this type of stuff 

 

Seems to be difficult to come by.

 

I will buy the three-way lumberg and will search for the larger nut.

 

It would be awesome if you could post a photo of the inside of one of your finished Beyer mods when you get chance so I can see how the jack fits against the hole left by removing the cable.

 

Will be using them at work/home, really love the soundstage. I'm selling the DT770 250 Pros, much prefer the DT770 32 premiums, they look cooler too :)

post #109 of 129
Thread Starter 

Weird, I never took any pictures of the inside of the cups when I used a lumberg chassis. I didn't realize that. Anyway, it fits very flush, it just has a small gap on the sides of it. Just fill those gaps with hot glue.

post #110 of 129

So the larger nut in this photo:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/643648/beyer-dt770-pro-80-detachable-cable-mod/75#post_10626236

 

is the one off this lumberg connector? http://octopart.com/1502+02-lumberg-7282821

 

I ordered those two parts as you suggested. I suppose I'll get a better idea for it all when I actually open it up and see how it can fit together.

 

Now the wait for shipping....

post #111 of 129
Thread Starter 

Yes it was. Yeah, shipping is the worst part of it all.

post #112 of 129

Hi All,

 

Thanks for posting up the information and pictures (definitely) of your mods.
I've been inspired to use the mogami quad wire and have covered it with a colored sheath from 550 paracord.

I'm currently working on how to replace the wire for the right driver. Would 24 or 26 gauge matter? Shielded?

 

One thing I'm VERY curious about because I haven't opened up the cans yet is the 3.5mm jacks you're using. I've seen a lot of people using the radio shack jacks. Is that because of the room inside the cup?
I guess I'm concerned that if I use anything but a surface mount style jack that I'll run into space issues inside the cup. For instance I'd like to using one of these but I'm not sure if it'll contact anything inside the cup.

 

Thank you all!!!

post #113 of 129
Thread Starter 

I would just use some of the wires from the Mogami w2893 cable for the right driver. I would just cover them with whatever paracord you're going to be using on the cable. You may or may not be able to use the rubber strain relief that is on that hole right now, if not make sure to tie a knot in the wires on the inside of the cup so you don't destroy the drivers.

 

As for the 3.5mm chassis, it should be fine to use. See the silver nut on it? That comes off and you use it after you put the chassis through the hole and then thread it on the other side to hold the chassis in place. I recommend soldering your wires to the 3.5mm chassis before you put it on the headphone's cup.

post #114 of 129
post #115 of 129

Thanks for the reply Casper!

I'm considering some 26awg twisted and shielded pair wire that I found on eBay being sold by navships and jacketing it further with type 1/#95 paracord. Smaller and more discrete than using the quad Mogami.

 

I also came across these two in case anyone is interested in using a locking 3.5mm setup:

http://www.ramelectronics.net/product.aspx?zpid=154

http://www.ramelectronics.net/product.aspx?zpid=153

post #116 of 129
Thread Starter 

I don't use Navships anymore now that I've used Mogami. Navships wire is pretty stiff, Mogami is MUCH more flexible.

post #117 of 129

This is so cool! Cheers!

post #118 of 129

I might try this out!

post #119 of 129
Quote:
Originally Posted by ExabytE View Post

Hi jonlad. I send you PM, but I'll post it here anyway. I'm out of town so just a quick link to my jack panel. http://www.ebay.de/itm/3-5mm-Jack-3-Pole-Panel-Mount-Solder-Terminal-With-Locking-Nut-005674-/190731515793?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2c687bf791

 

Yep I got your PM.

 

Thanks for this, I have ordered one and a Lumberg too. Just have to wait for shipping now :(

post #120 of 129

https://www.flickr.com/photos/70574389@N00/14954973869/

 

I went a little different route for my detachable cable mod:  I use the female end of an extension cord for the socket, which I ran through the stock strain relief and knotted before soldering inside.  I try to keep my mods 100% reversible, so no drilling.  I've done similar to my other pairs as well.

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