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Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+ SS Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ--Updated on 02/14/15*** - Page 273

post #4081 of 8013

Word of caution to all.

 

It is easy to change caps, same values. But here is a tip (lwrs will agree)

 

MARK one side of the caps on the board (+ or minus) so there is NO forgetting which way your new caps go in. Failure to do this makes caps go POOF when powered on, Not pretty

 

The white stripe ovals and  - are the minus side. If you mark the board where the ORIGINAL white stripe is, you can't be confused LATER when its off the board. It may seem basic (like I know what I am doing). But many an expert has gotten his wires crossed. LITERALLY...LOL

 

 

post #4082 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 

Yeah, but which value is the "correct" one to change for? 330uF 35V or 470uF 25V ? Wonder what caps Salvatore has.

 

The bigger capacitor the better in power supplies...if the power supply can handle the initial charging current upon turn on. Since yours has been using a 470uf, it would be safe to say a 470uf 35v or even 50v would be what I would choose. All this cap does here is filter and provide extra stored current for transients in music. 470>330 in this spot.

 

BTW, quoted from the Aune website:


 

Quote:

High quality component used:

Japan ALPSpotentiometer, German WIMA capacitors, four precision chip resistors, ENLA sound professional electrolytic capacitor, tube socket , USB port, RCA terminals are gold-plated material, full ON voltage regulator devices.

 

This statement has been verified FALSE in 3 different Aune T1's so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post
 

Word of caution to all.

 

It is easy to change caps, same values. But here is a tip (lwrs will agree)

 

MARK one side of the caps on the board (+ or minus) so there is NO forgetting which way your new caps go in. Failure to do this makes caps go POOF when powered on, Not pretty

 

The white stripe ovals and  - are the minus side. If you mark the board where the ORIGINAL white stripe is, you can't be confused LATER when its off the board. It may seem basic (like I know what I am doing). But many an expert has gotten his wires crossed. LITERALLY...LOL

 

 

 

 

Heed these words. But...the circuit board is already marked thankfully. I just had a momentary lapse of brain function when I installed my secondary caps backwards. And yes they popped in a very loud and scary manner. Flipped my aune over when it happened even. I had the bottom off monitoring temps.


Edited by lwrs10 - 1/9/14 at 9:35am
post #4083 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by lwrs10 View Post

Space, you have the same secondary caps that I do, but your primary supply caps are an offbrand too! In yours I would swap those out for sure!

Was the Aune advertised as having premium caps??

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk

which are the primary supply caps that should be replaced ?(sorry for the "noobnes" ) 

Quote:
Was the Aune advertised as having premium caps?? 

don't remember 

Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post
 

Spacequeens look good but what are the purple ones ? Also, would you say his ELNA's are knockoff?

there is no name on it ..here are the numbers

330uF

35V

+105CFC

"M" in a square marking 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 

spacequeen7, is your unit bought as 110V? You also have same caps on that spot as lwrs10 has. But my caps are different (470uF 25V). Also seems that you have different main power supply caps, we all have them different seems to me (what are your main supply caps values? don`t see it on pic). I`m really interested why we have different values at that secondary power supply caps? And which value should I choose to replace for?!?

yes 110v

 

Quote:
 what are your main supply caps values?

which caps..?

post #4084 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post
 

Spacequeens look good but what are the purple ones ?

 

Nope. His primary AND secondary caps are no name unknown quality.

 

The purple ones are the secondary supply caps.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by spacequeen7 View Post
 

which are the primary supply caps that should be replaced ?(sorry for the "noobnes" ) 

 

The big ones kinda in the middle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The units sent out for reviews had quality caps in the secondary supply....Nichicons. The brown caps in these pics:

 

http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/119072/thread


Edited by lwrs10 - 1/9/14 at 9:48am
post #4085 of 8013

Well for me, replacing 4 caps gives me peace of mind and probably better specs. I will not bother with the head amp caps because I don't and wont be using it.

 

Special thanks to lwrs for bringing this up and creating a fun an educational project !

post #4086 of 8013

BTW..great to hear about the pre-marked board. My Yamaha was like that (major job) and would have been a pain without it.

 

post #4087 of 8013

So, changing caps IS recommended if you know what you are doing! Going to change all caps on my unit for sure. Unfortunately (or not, does it really matter anyway) I`m not going to get ELNA`s or NICHICON`s because my country electrical components stores/dealers/resellers don`t provide them. But there are many good quality caps out there with low ESR and from large official resellers, like those VISHAY`s I linked before.


Edited by CoiL - 1/9/14 at 9:51am
post #4088 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post
 

BTW..great to hear about the pre-marked board. My Yamaha was like that (major job) and would have been a pain without it.

 

 

 

that kinda looks like a M-65.....

post #4089 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by lwrs10 View Post
 

 

The big ones kinda in the middle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The units sent out for reviews had quality caps in the secondary supply....Nichicons. The brown caps in these pics:

 

http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/post/119072/thread

can you provide link to the caps you would recommend for this replacement ?

Thank you

post #4090 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by lwrs10 View Post
 

 

 

that kinda looks like a M-65.....


Yup..exactly..one of the sweetest

post #4091 of 8013

Those big ones are primary supply caps. You should change those as they seem to be some unknown brand and probably lower values/quality.

 

The caps that make most difference to sound are secondary supply caps (purple on my & lwrs10 pics). I have 470uF 25V and lwrs10 has those 330uF 35V.

 

Replacing those to any good quality low ESR & impedance caps (with highest value AC ripple current as you can find) should be enough. Make sure they are at least same value as your stock caps and buy them from authentic dealer/reseller.


Edited by CoiL - 1/9/14 at 10:49am
post #4092 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by lwrs10 View Post
 

 

 

that kinda looks like a M-65.....


Yup..exactly..one of the sweetest



I have a few M-80's I really like myself.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk
post #4093 of 8013
 


 



Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post

 

Those big ones are primary supply caps. You should change those as they seem to be some unknown brand and probably lower values/quality.



 



The caps that make most difference to sound are secondary supply caps (purple on my & lwrs10 pics). I have 470uF 25V and lwrs10 has those 330uF 35V.



 



Replacing those to any good quality low ESR & impedance caps (with highest value AC ripple current as you can find) should be enough. Make sure they are at least same value as your stock caps and buy them from authentic dealer/reseller.





 




My primary supply caps are good quality in mine and yours. Space's has offbrands.




I would use a 470uf 35v in all of them for the secondary supply. I will be doing that tonight.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk
Edited by lwrs10 - 1/9/14 at 11:49am
post #4094 of 8013
post #4095 of 8013

Using bi-polar caps is ok? Was going through my ordering options too about 470uF 35V and found 16 options.

 

lwrs10, how would you line up following specifications by importance in case of Aune T1 capacitors?-> impedance (usually around ~23-68 mOhm), ESR (I think this is also Ohm), ripple current (mA) , temperature (85*C vs 105*C rated temp), lifetime (better ones between 8k-10k hours). Then it would be easier to choose out of all those options I have. There are many brands like Rubycon, Panasonic, Vishay, Nichicon, Samwha. Is there any brand I should definitely prefer or just follow with better specifications?

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