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Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+ SS Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ--Updated on 02/14/15*** - Page 271

post #4051 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by CoiL View Post

 

Can anyone tell if those are also worth for changing?

 

http://ee.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FM1V331/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22UdNt2GjTQiN7Aj3y6taJzo%3D

 

Edit: Also, can anyone of you smarter guys tell how the ripple current in specifications affects outcome? Or is it irrelevant?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by lwrs10 View Post
 

Not sure why your caps are different values in the power supply. Only difference should be the transformer. Does your transformer say 15-0-15 on the back?

 

Those caps will work fine you linked. I would try to find a different 47u 50v one though.

Yes, my transformer says 15V-0-15V 250V AC.

You said that this 330uF cap would work fine but I`m still confused about low impedance & AC ripple current. The one I linked is low impedance but it`s ripple current value is 1790mA. Can anyone explain me about this AC ripple current and how it`s important in case of Aune T1.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by lwrs10 View Post

I forgot to post the capacitor test.

1. Main supply caps.
These were labelled Elna, and rated at 3300uf at 25v. They passed capacitence and esr test with flying colors.

2. Secondary supply caps.
These had no name and were rated at 330uf at 35v. One measured 198uf, and the other 312. They both failed esr and failed internal resistance.

3. Headphone amp rail voltage caps.
These were labelled Nichicon, and rated 470uf at 25v. They passed capacitance, one failed esr.

4. Headphone coupling caps.
These are labelled Elna RFO series and rated 47UF at 50v. They passed capacitance, both were very marginal on esr.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk

Wow, lot of crap then ;S


Edited by CoiL - 1/9/14 at 5:05am
post #4052 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 

Yes, my transformer says 15V-0-15V 250V AC.

You said that this 330uF cap would work fine but I`m still confused about low impedance & AC ripple current. The one I linked is low impedance but it`s ripple current value is 1790mA. Can anyone explain me about this AC ripple current and how it`s important in case of Aune T1.

 

Wow, lot of crap then ;S

 

 

I did not understand what you were asking before.

 

You want the ripple current rating HIGHER. This means it can handle a higher ripple current before it overheats. Usually the better the ESR, the higher ripple it can handle.

 

For a very good read about this subject, read this.

 

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1458


Edited by lwrs10 - 1/9/14 at 5:58am
post #4053 of 8013

Ok thanks. I already read that link but didn`t understood it well. Also wanted to ask how important is impedance?
This must be low as possible? This should be ok I guess? > Vishay 470uF 25V low impedance 0.066Ohm > http://www.tme.eu/en/details/mal215056471e3/tht-low-imp-electrolytic-capacitors/vishay/

 

Or larger one: http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-bc-components/mal213666471e3/cap-alum-elec-470uf-25v-20-radial/dp/1165510

 

or 3rd option (smallest): http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeufr1e471/capacitor-radial-25v-470uf/dp/1800650

 

Which one of those to prefer? The largest one if room isn`t a problem?


Edited by CoiL - 1/9/14 at 5:55am
post #4054 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacequeen7 View Post
 

received my 400's today and after listening for only 30min I pretty sure they need 10DB ,they sound way better then 0DB em I right ?

P.S. got to have velour pads 

I tried them with 0dB and I had the volume cranked and I wasn't impressed so I decided to try and add some gain they are much better at 10dB. I have the pleathers as well, but I don't want to change pads, tubes, and caps simultaneously without understanding what I like and don't like. Yes, the pleathers get warm after a while, but it's January so I'll deal.

 

I'll roll tubes for a bit, then try swapping caps, and in the end the velours and maybe the Jerg pads. I may know someone who can test caps not far from where I work and that may help clear things up.

post #4055 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 

Ok thanks. I already read that link but didn`t understood it well. Also wanted to ask how important is impedance?
This must be low as possible? This should be ok I guess? > Vishay 470uF 25V low impedance 0.066Ohm > http://www.tme.eu/en/details/mal215056471e3/tht-low-imp-electrolytic-capacitors/vishay/

 

Or larger one: http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-bc-components/mal213666471e3/cap-alum-elec-470uf-25v-20-radial/dp/1165510

 

 

let me read up on it....

 

 

BTW, I edited my cap test post. It might be worth a read.

post #4056 of 8013

This is very helpful info lwrs10. Coil keep that post #4011 updated as this thing progress.

post #4057 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 

This is NOT sure thing yet if there are some Aune T1 with fake capacitors on not as this lacks some information
and has different opinions!
I recommend everyone to do their own research about those "fake" caps inside Aune T1 and act accordingly. Opening Aune T1 voids warranty and if you don`t know what your are doing - do not do it! If your Aune T1 works without problems and everything sounds ok, there`s no need to start changing components. Although, replacing parts for higher-grade components has the potential to improve the sound.

Info about Aune T1 FAKE CAPACITORS! (Click to show)
 

I highlighed and "fixed" the best thing that can be said about all of this.


Edited by lwrs10 - 1/9/14 at 6:05am
post #4058 of 8013

Yes, will update later. I`m @ work atm and searching for capacitors ;D LMFAO

post #4059 of 8013

there's no need to change parts if they are working as intended imo. Sure we can start rolling all the parts for better. Might as well start with the conversion chip lol :D

post #4060 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by lwrs10 View Post

I forgot to post the capacitor test.

1. Main supply caps.
These were labelled Elna, and rated at 3300uf at 25v. They passed capacitence and esr test with flying colors.

2. Secondary supply caps.
These had no name and were rated at 330uf at 35v. One measured 198uf, and the other 312. They both failed esr.

3. Headphone amp rail voltage caps.
These were labelled Nichicon, and rated 470uf at 25v. They passed capacitance, one failed esr.

4. Headphone coupling caps.
These are labelled Elna RFO series and rated 47UF at 50v. They passed capacitance, both were very marginal on esr, but passed.



*EDIT*

I swapped all the caps that came in my Aune back in, and changed them one pair at a time to note sound differences. The new caps I had installed would be considered "broken in" with about 24 hours of run time on them, so that takes that whole argument out of the picture I hope.

1. Secondary supply caps. (330uf 35v).
Since these were no name and failed ESR and capacitance test, I swapped these first. With the no name ones, the sound leaned towards the "cold" side, especially when using headphones. Changing just these caps to a Nichicon 330uf 50V general purpose 105* rated cap significantly changed the sound. It became much much warmer, and the slight harshness in the treble and the little bit too cold sound went away. Both the headphone and line out sounded much smoother and more balanced. Soundstage opened up, as did midrange detail. The bass quality improved 10 fold. This is exactly what I expected to happen after recapping many vintage receivers with power supply capacitors that measured bad. Cleaner power into the circuit, cleaner sound out.

2. Headphone amp rail voltage caps. (470uf 25V).
I could not discern a change in sound replacing these with the exact same size/rating/brand capacitor.

3. Headphone amp coupling caps. (47uf 50V).
I changed these out to Nichicon Muse with the same rating, slightly bigger physical size. This ever so slightly made everything smoother, but other than that I could not pinpoint any other changes. As a rule of thumb, the bigger physical size of a capacitor the better specs it has at the same uf/voltage rating. You can see this just by looking through any spec sheet like this: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/RFO_Series.pdf



So, if anything, change out those secondary supply caps. It was not a slight difference in sound.....it was a HUGE difference. This probably only applies if your Aune has the no name caps like mine did. I have seen 3 different capacitors so far used in this spot from online pics, Coils pics, and mine.

So, the secondary supply caps that are different on my unit ( Elna 3300uF 25V ), replacing those give most improvement? Are they those largest ones on my pics? Just asking to be sure. 
 

Pics spoiler (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 

Here are capacitor pics from my Aune T1:
 

Aune T1 capacitor pics (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by CoiL - 1/9/14 at 6:16am
post #4061 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by Salvatore View Post
 

there's no need to change parts if they are working as intended imo. Sure we can start rolling all the parts for better. Might as well start with the conversion chip lol :D

 

Problem is those secondary caps were not working as intended in mine, and I would be very curious about Coils caps too. They were very low grade no name caps in mine, and looks like in Coils also. The Aune website pics show Nichicon caps in this spot...which obviously not everyone got.

 

Point of all this is the build quality of the Aune T1 is quite nice. Except for those 2 caps, they were skimped on.

 

 

 

Coil,

 

The purple ones in your pics are the ones I am referring to. Yours are even a different value than mine. Yours(470uf 25v). Mine(330uf 35v). Being 220V should not make a difference since the transformer is what steps down the voltage to the same as my 110V unit. Does yours even have a brand on them?

 


Edited by lwrs10 - 1/9/14 at 6:25am
post #4062 of 8013

Hey, I just got my Aune T1 from the recent drop, and have made the stupid mistake of connecting it to a 220V input (the T1 powerbrick is 110V) and have managed to burn my power supply, but thank God the T1 wasn't connected. Does anyone know the polarity of the 5 pin connectors? And is there anywhere I can get a replacement power brick? Thank you very much.

post #4063 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by obesecatfish View Post
 

Hey, I just got my Aune T1, and have made the stupid mistake of connecting it to a 220V input (the T1 powerbrick is 110V) and have managed to burn my power supply, but thank God the T1 wasn't connected. Does anyone know the polarity of the 5 pin connectors? And is there anywhere I can get a replacement power brick? Thank you very much.

 

 

email Aune. Bet they will replace it for cheap.

post #4064 of 8013
Quote:
Originally Posted by lwrs10 View Post
 

Problem is those secondary caps were not working as intended in mine, and I would be very curious about Coils caps too. They were very low grade no name caps in mine, and looks like in Coils also. The Aune website pics show Nichicon caps in this spot...which obviously not everyone got.

 

True. I probably need to check my Aune as well. Smells like false advertisement. Has anyone contacted Aune yet? I'd be curious to hear what they have to say about this.

post #4065 of 8013

lwrs10...I might just do this one based on your test...seems like the weak link in the chain ! Thanks for doing the anlaysis

 

~~1. Secondary supply caps. (330uf 35v). Since these were no name and failed ESR and capacitance test, I swapped these first. With the no name ones, the sound leaned towards the "cold" side, especially when using headphones. Changing just these caps to a Nichicon 330uf 50V general purpose 105* rated cap significantly changed the sound. It became much much warmer, and the slight harshness in the treble and the little bit too cold sound went away. Both the headphone and line out sounded much smoother and more balanced. Soundstage opened up, as did midrange detail. The bass quality improved 10 fold. This is exactly what I expected to happen after recapping many vintage receivers with power supply capacitors that measured bad. Cleaner power into the circuit, cleaner sound out.

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