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Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ*** - Page 372

post #5566 of 5630

I'd suggest playing with tubes instead. My Amperex Orange Globe provides ample clear bass.

post #5567 of 5630

No reply from Audiophonics.fr yet in regards to my dead T1, will hand over the case to PayPal soon.

 

Edit: Seems like there's a national holiday in France today.


Edited by reiserFS - 7/14/14 at 10:04am
post #5568 of 5630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strat-Mangler View Post
 

I'd suggest playing with tubes instead. My Amperex Orange Globe provides ample clear bass.

 

Trust me, I have played with lots of tubes and nothing comes close to this Siemens (possible CCa) tube.  I have an Amperex backup..

 

I was simply letting those know who follow what I posted about caps that it was the power primary caps that killed the bass and these were Nichicon Fine Golds, some of the best caps you can buy ($6-$8 each).  The Nichicon have a slightly more pronounced top end, but lack dramatically in the bottom end compared to the Panasonic FRs


Edited by NCSUZoSo - 7/14/14 at 1:46pm
post #5569 of 5630

Panasonic FWs? Do you have a data sheet link for these caps, can't seem to find any info.

 

I went with Panny FR's and the bass was much, much improved over the Nichicon's my T1 came with.

post #5570 of 5630

Sorry FW was the Nichicons.

 

I am talking about Panasonic FRs like these:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panasonic-3300uF-10V-105-degrees-low-ESR-FR-range-electrolytic-capacitors-5-pack-/350574855197

 

Except those are 10V and you need 25V


Edited by NCSUZoSo - 7/14/14 at 1:47pm
post #5571 of 5630
ok excellent, thanks for clearing that up... I used the same caps and the bass sounds great.

Thanks again for the info
post #5572 of 5630

It's times like these that I wish I was great with a soldering iron. :(

post #5573 of 5630

Hey, brand new here. Posting to ask about the T1 mk1. Just got one on amazon and I am not sure if it is behaving normal. Never had a amp before let alone a tube amp. When I first plugged it in it sounded like a wavy jitterin soft crackle (the crackle wasn't sharp) to the sound. Kinda like a wavy radio sound idk. Now this was without any audio coming from the computer. As soon as I started a song I noticed the PC audio was a lower volume than the horrible sounds the T1 was producing on its own, unusable chopped up and edgy/digitalish/pixelated. I used a iPad to test the headphone amp and that works great. Nice, loud, and clear. 1/3rd volume is more than I can handle with some headphones. Great! Getting somewhere.

 

Now I switched back to the DAC/tube and this waving jitter crack sound was changing every few minutes taking on a new characteristic then going away completely just to come back anew a moment later. Zero PC audio, it was plugged in but no software was running. 

 

I tried messing with all the setting in windows I could find, turning it off and on pulling and replacing the tube, letting it warm up, different headphones etc. All to no avail. The first few time I turned it on I got unrecognized by windows 1/2 the time. When it did connect 24 bit sample rates didn't work, just 16. Then after a bit it connected a bit more steady and now the last few times 24 bit works. Ok then, getting father. Oh and hey, the other sound devices others talk about when it's plugged in are starting to show up in the settings! But it still sounds like my music went through a blender then someone tried scotch taping it together.

 

Fine... Let's lets try something stupid, it clearly won't help but I am desperate. I tried letting the T1 start without a tube, it clicked on the tubelight (no tube), and then I restarted with the tube in place. It works... wait no.. no its working. What? Well ok then, great. :D  But there is a issue. It sounds like there is clipping if the windows audio is over 17 of 100. At 17 I have to crank the T1 to max inorder to get it to a resonable volume to listen to and even then it is low and not as neat/clean (i am not sure how to describe it just not as good/also it's less punchy in the lows).

 

I'm out of ideas. I got a gold lion tube coming in 2 days but I am this close to returning it anyways. I am not sure if the new tube will help. It feels like it has multiple issues. 


Edited by Goophoba - 7/14/14 at 5:47pm
post #5574 of 5630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strat-Mangler View Post
 

It's times like these that I wish I was great with a soldering iron. :(

 

You mean so you can make stuff like this?  :D

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goophoba View Post
 

Hey, brand new here. Posting to ask about the T1 mk1. Just got one on amazon and I am not sure if it is behaving normal. Never had a amp before let alone a tube amp. When I first plugged it in it sounded like a wavy jitterin soft crackle (the crackle wasn't sharp) to the sound. Kinda like a wavy radio sound idk. Now this was without any audio coming from the computer. As soon as I started a song I noticed the PC audio was a lower volume than the horrible sounds the T1 was producing on its own, unusable chopped up and edgy/digitalish/pixelated. I used a iPad to test the headphone amp and that works great. Nice, loud, and clear. 1/3rd volume is more than I can handle with some headphones. Great! Getting somewhere.

 

Now I switched back to the DAC/tube and this waving jitter crack sound was changing every few minutes taking on a new characteristic then going away completely just to come back anew a moment later. Zero PC audio, it was plugged in but no software was running. 

 

I tried messing with all the setting in windows I could find, turning it off and on pulling and replacing the tube, letting it warm up, different headphones etc. All to no avail. The first few time I turned it on I got unrecognized by windows 1/2 the time. When it did connect 24 bit sample rates didn't work, just 16. Then after a bit it connected a bit more steady and now the last few times 24 bit works. Ok then, getting father. Oh and hey, the other sound devices others talk about when it's plugged in are starting to show up in the settings! But it still sounds like my music went through a blender then someone tried scotch taping it together.

 

Fine... Let's lets try something stupid, it clearly won't help but I am desperate. I tried letting the T1 start without a tube, it clicked on the tubelight (no tube), and then I restarted with the tube in place. It works... wait no.. no its working. What? Well ok then, great. :D  But there is a issue. It sounds like there is clipping if the windows audio is over 17 of 100. At 17 I have to crank the T1 to max inorder to get it to a resonable volume to listen to and even then it is low and not as neat/clean (i am not sure how to describe it just not as good/also it's less punchy in the lows).

 

I'm out of ideas. I got a gold lion tube coming in 2 days but I am this close to returning it anyways. I am not sure if the new tube will help. It feels like it has multiple issues. 

 

The sound you are describing sounds like when the tube is not completely secured in the socket.  I'm not saying to push really hard on it, but make sure you can't push it down any further.  However if you just bought, return it.  If you had owned it for a while and it was outside the scope of returning to Amazon I would go into more depth than the tube, but you can just swap yours.


Edited by NCSUZoSo - 7/14/14 at 5:58pm
post #5575 of 5630
Hey Goo

Sorry to hear about your trouble with your unit.

Did you try adjusting the gain dip stitches on the bottom? Try all three settings and see if either reacts currently.

Did you try another computer... If possible? I have experienced usb troubles on my X1 with an older computer I have that sound similar, depending on which usb port I'm using.

Anything else plugged into the usb ports on the computer? Maybe try swapping ports and unplugging the other devices, if possible.

Power cycling my X1 would fix the issues I had as well, but it was frustrating hearing distortion.

Do you think perhaps the tube is causing the issues? Maybe it's worthwhile waiting on the new tube...

Good luck.
post #5576 of 5630
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

The sound you are describing sounds like when the tube is not completely secured in the socket.  I'm not saying to push really hard on it, but make sure you can't push it down any further.  However if you just bought, return it.  If you had owned it for a while and it was outside the scope of returning to Amazon I would go into more depth than the tube, but you can just swap yours.

 

 

Re seated it. It's clean but the volume is still quite low. Max just brings it to my listening level, which isn't high. Think I'll return it thanks.

 

Would a new tube boost the volume if I waited for the gold lion?

post #5577 of 5630

A tube will not boost the volume, this is a tube buffered circuit; basically the tube is your equalizer.

 

Like mentioned above, check your gain switches on the bottom of the unit.

 

If you are interested in buying NOS Tubes, I have a RCA made Amperex tube from the 60's, tested higher than NOS on the Hickok.


Edited by NCSUZoSo - 7/14/14 at 6:11pm
post #5578 of 5630

Thanks guys, you've been awesome. I really appreciate the advice and help.

 

After a listening session I still have clipping on the low end even at 12 of 100 volume but it does sound different then the on board sound with a flat eq. I don't know if I like it better because I can't really hear much yet, too low.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikoss View Post

Did you try adjusting the gain dip stitches on the bottom? Try all three settings and see if either reacts currently.

 

Just did, seems my DIP switches are in upside-down. Been listing to 16 db gain this whole time. Played with the others just to be sure and it just gets quieter on the setting the book says is 16 db. Or the book diagram is wrong as the wording seems to match what is happening. Anyways it's all the way up.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikoss View Post

Did you try another computer... If possible? I have experienced usb troubles on my X1 with an older computer I have that sound similar, depending on which usb port I'm using.

Anything else plugged into the usb ports on the computer? Maybe try swapping ports and unplugging the other devices, if possible.

Not yet. I'll try another PC.

 

But I have tried 2 usb 2.0 and one usb 3.0 (higher amp output? digital i know but im grasping here). All the same.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikoss View Post

Power cycling my X1 would fix the issues I had as well, but it was frustrating hearing distortion.

Do you think perhaps the tube is causing the issues? Maybe it's worthwhile waiting on the new tube...
 

Power cycled so many times, seemed to help in the fist hour but no gains since.

 

Idk, guess we will see.

post #5579 of 5630
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

If you are interested in buying NOS Tubes, I have a RCA made Amperex tube from the 60's, tested higher than NOS on the Hickok.

If I get it working I may take you up on that.

post #5580 of 5630
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goophoba View Post
 

Hey, brand new here. Posting to ask about the T1 mk1. Just got one on amazon and I am not sure if it is behaving normal. Never had a amp before let alone a tube amp. When I first plugged it in it sounded like a wavy jitterin soft crackle (the crackle wasn't sharp) to the sound. Kinda like a wavy radio sound idk. Now this was without any audio coming from the computer. As soon as I started a song I noticed the PC audio was a lower volume than the horrible sounds the T1 was producing on its own, unusable chopped up and edgy/digitalish/pixelated. I used a iPad to test the headphone amp and that works great. Nice, loud, and clear. 1/3rd volume is more than I can handle with some headphones. Great! Getting somewhere.

 

Now I switched back to the DAC/tube and this waving jitter crack sound was changing every few minutes taking on a new characteristic then going away completely just to come back anew a moment later. Zero PC audio, it was plugged in but no software was running. 

 

I tried messing with all the setting in windows I could find, turning it off and on pulling and replacing the tube, letting it warm up, different headphones etc. All to no avail. The first few time I turned it on I got unrecognized by windows 1/2 the time. When it did connect 24 bit sample rates didn't work, just 16. Then after a bit it connected a bit more steady and now the last few times 24 bit works. Ok then, getting father. Oh and hey, the other sound devices others talk about when it's plugged in are starting to show up in the settings! But it still sounds like my music went through a blender then someone tried scotch taping it together.

 

Fine... Let's lets try something stupid, it clearly won't help but I am desperate. I tried letting the T1 start without a tube, it clicked on the tubelight (no tube), and then I restarted with the tube in place. It works... wait no.. no its working. What? Well ok then, great. :D  But there is a issue. It sounds like there is clipping if the windows audio is over 17 of 100. At 17 I have to crank the T1 to max inorder to get it to a resonable volume to listen to and even then it is low and not as neat/clean (i am not sure how to describe it just not as good/also it's less punchy in the lows).

 

I'm out of ideas. I got a gold lion tube coming in 2 days but I am this close to returning it anyways. I am not sure if the new tube will help. It feels like it has multiple issues. 

 

This is the *exact* same issue that I have.

 

The cause for it is electromagnetic interference from your PC. You'll notice that the sound gets extremely crazy when your hard drive is accessed and/or when you scroll through a webpage.

 

It took me weeks to find a possible solution and trust me when I say that I know more about this problem than anybody else, at this point. lol!

 

Two other people reported that this solved the issue entirely ; a USB isolator. It purifies the signal and manages to separate the noise you're referring to from the music you're trying to play.

 

Here is the exact USB isolator I've ordered ; it's made by Olimex. https://www.olimex.com/Products/USB-Modules/USB-ISO/

 

By the way, here are some things that were suggested to me which didn't fix the issue ;

 

- Different shielded USB cable.

- Testing all USB ports.

- Trying a USB controller card (PCI).

- Trying a USB cable with a ferrite on each end.

- Trying a USB cable with no ground or power pin.

- And many more...

 

And here are the threads from other users who experienced the same issue.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/645446/usb-isolator-and-pc-noise
http://www.hifivision.com/audio-video-cables/24439-usb-isolation-between-computer-dac.html
http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-51572.html

I've ordered it through DigiKey and will hope that nips it in the bud once and for all. It seems to be way overkill for my usage but I couldn't find any real-world experiences from users having tried the aforementioned USB isolator, so I ordered one that I could verify has worked for other end-users like me.

 

Lastly, here is my thread about this topic ; http://www.overclock.net/t/1497894/emi-driving-me-nuts-no-sound-card-using-usb-help

 

I will be taking possession of the Olimex USB isolator this weekend, but I'm 99% sure it will fix the issue. It can be ordered from many different places, including Amazon. I'll be sure to let you know the outcome.


Edited by Strat-Mangler - 7/14/14 at 8:18pm
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