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Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ*** - Page 33

post #481 of 5548
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post

Is there a way you could find out the original seller and if its legitimate official reseller? Not familiar with alibaba. The only way to make sure its fully correct product would be to open it and check the components. If one of you has the gut to do it would be really appreciated! If its real deal, lot of ppl going to save lot of money.


Alibaba is a sales broker.

 

They are between seller and buyer. They take payment, but don't release it until I tell them I received and I'm happy with product. Also, if the seller does not ship in the next 24 hours, Alibaba will cancel the transaction and put the cash back into my account.

post #482 of 5548
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post

This is seriously low price - bit over half of what I paid for (88€ vs. 169€). Also, that PSU problem? Seriously, Enuma-elis, are you sure you didn`t get ripped off? 

Take a look at my pictures @ rockgrotto and see if everything looks same? -> http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=8297&page=15#125213

 

Also if you can manage to take a look inside T1 without noticeable damage, do it, just to be sure you aren`t being ripped off with fake product.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's the same. Don't have a screwdriver to look inside, cause I'm at my college but from outside...that is it. Badly the seller not comprehended my question about transformer(my bad english plus their maybe even worse equals a little bit misunderstanding:)). Will buy an adapter and try it later, hopefully it will work. 

post #483 of 5548

OK, after spending 4 hours in local shops, I finally came to something that could be used as an adapter:). Aune is working (will look inside transducer at home) but I've got only px360 with me now, so I can't hear all the differences. So far it's smooth, clean, and the voices are very good pronounced. By the way, the adapter is 16A, do you think it's better to get something different?

post #484 of 5548

Lol make sure you don't plug a 110V adapter in a 220 socket ;) **** might go boom.

post #485 of 5548
Quote:
Originally Posted by HolyCheese View Post

Lol make sure you don't plug a 110V adapter in a 220 socket ;) **** might go boom.


I'm not very dexterous, but I'm not so stupid. And I don't want to go boom:). A new evolution rule...people who don't recognize 110V from 220V and "go boom" with their devices. Rather do boom boom on the toilet.ksc75smile.gif

post #486 of 5548

Got notification that it shipped.

 

Will arrive next Tuesday. beerchug.gif

 

 

Edit: Wednesday now.


Edited by Grevlin - 1/31/13 at 10:27am
post #487 of 5548
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enuma-elis View Post


I'm not very dexterous, but I'm not so stupid. And I don't want to go boom:). A new evolution rule...people who don't recognize 110V from 220V and "go boom" with their devices. Rather do boom boom on the toilet.ksc75smile.gif

Big Bang Theory!

post #488 of 5548

Joeq70, please ad this to first post:

Quote:

If you change the cord or adapter then don`t forget to change it to one that has FUSE in it!

IMPORTANT! - UK plug fuse should be changed to something between 0,5A - 3A fuse because in stock it comes with 13A fuse which is way too much!

http://rockgrotto.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=talk&thread=8297&page=15#125152


Edited by CoiL - 1/31/13 at 10:44am
post #489 of 5548

mmmmm I'm thinking can't you take some orange translucent plastic sheets (that crap kids play with) and cut a small piece, then place it over the diode.

 

The problem becomes heating it so that it will melt (ever so slightly) and cover the diode. (Hair dryer usually, but probably wont work now)

post #490 of 5548

My household sockets are all using UK type.. may I know what is difference and benefits of changing the fuse to a lower ampere ratings? I don't quite get it from RG forums saying T1 will be fried before the fuse? 13A has been almost the standard for all our appliances here.. someone enlighten me please?

post #491 of 5548

 

13A is just too much. In case of electrical failure you will propably damage T1 transformer before fuse will blow. 

 

 

Quote:
30VA toroidal normally specifies a 0.5A fuse

I don`t know if Aune T1 transformer has fuse inside it or not but just for precaution I would change mains plug fuse.

Quote:

The common UK plug – Is generally fitted with a 3A or 13A fuse. For appliances up to 700w you need to use a 3A fuse. And for appliances over 700w you need to use a 13A fuse.

Here are some common examples: 

3A Fuse – Table lamp, standard lamp, television, video, computer, mixer, blender, fridge, freezer, power drill, jig saw, soldering iron. 

13A Fuse – Washing machine, dishwasher, microwave, kettle, toaster, iron

 


Edited by CoiL - 1/31/13 at 11:42am
post #492 of 5548
Quote:
Originally Posted by icecap View Post

My household sockets are all using UK type.. may I know what is difference and benefits of changing the fuse to a lower ampere ratings? I don't quite get it from RG forums saying T1 will be fried before the fuse? 13A has been almost the standard for all our appliances here.. someone enlighten me please?

I don't get it, the device pulls as much current as it needs (provided its there to be pulled.)  You don't force feed your DAC/amps with power like the KFC chicken.

post #493 of 5548
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post

13A is just too much. In case of electrical failure you will propably damage T1 transformer before fuse will blow.

To me it sounds like if you plug a cellphone charger into a 13A supply it will explode spontaneously - Yet I did it. No flames. and it was a 13A supply I assure you. I melted the unit being a dipstick with an industrial heater, and the fuse was perfect.

post #494 of 5548

Seems you don`t get it. This fuse will protect against electrical failure (surge, short). Aune T1 power draw (30VA transformer) has nothing to do with it.  

post #495 of 5548
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiR3D View Post

I don't get it, the device pulls as much current as it needs (provided its there to be pulled.)  You don't force feed your DAC/amps with power like the KFC chicken.


I thought so. But I've got a little scared when I've read about all the frying and booming:). Now I'm looking suspiciously on my Aune, all the time I watch it with my lazy eye, waiting for some booming, exploding and blowing up, unable to fully enjoy the music.o2smile.gif

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