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Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ*** - Page 309

post #4621 of 6460
Quote:
Originally Posted by Salvatore View Post
 

 

Yes those who have been reading my posts know that I've been quoting Brent Jessee several times before. It also says Brent Jessee in the text so I'm not claiming it to be my own text. Not all tubes have visible factory codes I know, but for what I know also at least some of american Amperexes should have codes. What I'm trying to say is that there are lots of beginners out here and it's important that they know how to interpret codes and look for them. If tubes are not identified by codes you should at least tell people about the triodes, getters, supports, shields etc. I wouldn't encourage beginners to buy expensive tubes based only on painted text even though many of the best tubes might only have such. If Coil has room for improvement in his expression of thoughts so does you. Lets not try to constantly troll or diss people about their impressions or opinions.


Salvatore,

 

Opinions and freedom of expression I can agree with you on. And teaching newbies, I agree on. But certain people tend to speak in absolutes and when that occurs, then "newbies" get confused. That is the problem I have with the post's value.

 

If they were posted as "If you can, try to find an etched date code - most European made tubes have them - to determine the actual tube date and manufacturer"...Then I would have no problem and agree. But picture some newbie thinking he has a false tube because there is no etched code. He may have an American made tube or a European tube that did not use it.

 

That is all I am saying. It is valuable that you provide and help interpret those codes. And if Coil wants to help people great. Just use caution on the absolutes. Caps are another subject. He had a bad experience with his Panasonics so now, no one should use them. I did and mine sound awesome - and did require break in. Yet, I did not post - NO you are wrong, they do sound good. He posts in such a way that people will never use them. He forgets that much of this is system dependent and power caps really don't hold that much sway in SQ.

 

Anyway, I will be on my best but don't rush to defense if I call something out. I too want to help newbies and don't want them misled. In many ways this thread has really gotten too long. You too have seen new posters say they cannot get through all the pages ....Perhaps some updates to the FAQ pages ? Just a thought..Opinion

 

Peace

post #4622 of 6460
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

Yea Coil, I hope so too and mine doesn't sound sterile, just a lack of the original bass.

 

my caps are as follows:

 

ELNA SILMIC II 330uF (x2)

Nichicon FW 3300uF (x2)

ELNA Cerafine 470uF (x2)

 

 

If you look at the picture I posted:

 

 

 

The black cap in the left (SILMIC II) at the top of the picture, I had to actually add the leads back to..  This is because I thought they were going to fit and it was so close I couldn't find out without putting the bottom on, which I didn't do until I soldered it.  Do running these long leads or in my case soldering the leads back on the cap with only a few millimeters left on the cap affect the values?  Or is that just the guitarist in me trying to make an issue out of everything?


NW....Just to be safe

 

Make up an order from mouser.com

 

You use the same cap values as mine (330uf in the secondary's where some have the higher 470)

 

I left the headphone caps alone. Changed are the secondary - 330uf Panasonics  , Primary 3300 Nichicon

 

Just FYI

330uf secondary caps - height and diameter is 16mm by 10mm - 5mm lead spacing (see picture)

3300uf primary - height is 20mm , 18mm diameter with 7.5mm lead spacing

 

 

I have the correct height (which you can see on mouser when ordering) so all fits, no worries and sound great. No loss of bass at all. To clean things up, I would also (if I were you) go back to Nichicons for the headphone amp in the right size. This way everything fits as it should.

 

BTW...did you know Nichicon's can be blue now ? Recent mouser order for some on my main amp..shocked me...but they are a pretty blue now...LOL...

 

They match the Philips caps now...LOL


Edited by arcorob - 2/11/14 at 6:43am
post #4623 of 6460
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post
 

Opinions and freedom of expression I can agree with you on. And teaching newbies, I agree on. But certain people tend to speak in absolutes and when that occurs, then "newbies" get confused. That is the problem I have with the post's value.

 

Yes this is very true. We should try keeping this thread fun and educational.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post
 

That is all I am saying. It is valuable that you provide and help interpret those codes. And if Coil wants to help people great. Just use caution on the absolutes. Caps are another subject. He had a bad experience with his Panasonics so now, no one should use them. I did and mine sound awesome - and did require break in. Yet, I did not post - NO you are wrong, they do sound good. He posts in such a way that people will never use them. He forgets that much of this is system dependent and power caps really don't hold that much sway in SQ.

 

This is another good observation. We should work together to create good guides for all of us to enjoy. Maybe first create DIY guide for changing caps and then add peoples impressions of different caps. It's the same with tubes. One man's best tube might not work with others. But it is very important to let everyone express their opinion without letting them feel stupid saying stuff. This one goes to Coil too. When we have good guides we could close this thread and start another one with VERY comprehensive starting info / FAQ. I personally would enjoy some DIY guides from you guys (cap change and pin cleaning for example).

post #4624 of 6460
Noob checking in here.

Yes, this thread is far too long and confusing for someone (like me) who only wants to enjoy trying a few new tubes that do not cost an arm and a leg. It is difficult enough trying to tell what you might be getting online from the descriptions that various sellers provide. Even if you had the exact codes, it's not likely that a some eBay seller who is shipping out dozens of units a week is going to go looking for etching with a magnifying glass on a $25 tube.

So, no one person is in charge here, but it would be nice if some of the experts recompiled a simple list of top all time tubes and perhaps a similar list of best bang for the buck (under $50) tubes.

Look, this thing cost $150 and it sounds pretty good out of the box. I imagine I'm not the only one here who wants to tube roll but at a cost that is some fraction of the original retail price. And it would be great to easily find a few nice tubes based on all the great research already provided by some of the folks here.

Thanks to everyone for all of the great information and help already provided in this thread.
post #4625 of 6460

Salvatore, great idea (and as we can see from one new poster, much needed..lol)

 

For AOPISA

 

If you go here

http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/2010#post_9502294

 

scroll down half a page and you will see a list of people tube impression...I promise you can find many of these tubes in the $25 or less catagory

 

My top favorites (just top 3, not in order)

 

Amperex PCC88 Made in Holland - non-A frame (harder to find)

GE Branded Siemens made 6AQ8

RCA Made in USA 6DJ8 with smoked glass

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-GE-General-Electric-6AQ8-ECC85-Vacuum-Tube-Made-in-Germany-Nice-/141043715268?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item20d6dc4cc4

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/General-Electric-6DJ8-ECC88-2-Same-Code-SC-Smoked-Glass-Tubes-/281262637204?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item417c8f4094

post #4626 of 6460
Quote:
Originally Posted by arcorob View Post
 


NW....Just to be safe

 

Make up an order from mouser.com

 

You use the same cap values as mine (330uf in the secondary's where some have the higher 470)

 

I left the headphone caps alone. Changed are the secondary - 330uf Panasonics  , Primary 3300 Nichicon

 

Just FYI

330uf secondary caps - height and diameter is 16mm by 10mm - 5mm lead spacing (see picture)

3300uf primary - height is 20mm , 18mm diameter with 7.5mm lead spacing

 

 

I have the correct height (which you can see on mouser when ordering) so all fits, no worries and sound great. No loss of bass at all. To clean things up, I would also (if I were you) go back to Nichicons for the headphone amp in the right size. This way everything fits as it should.

 

BTW...did you know Nichicon's can be blue now ? Recent mouser order for some on my main amp..shocked me...but they are a pretty blue now...LOL...

 

They match the Philips caps now...LOL

 

 

Why would I change anything?  Everything is installed and fits now.

post #4627 of 6460
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

 

 

Why would I change anything?  Everything is installed and fits now.


Ok...:bigsmile_face: 
  You don't have to ....I just thought it was bothering you.....

post #4628 of 6460
Quote:
Amperex PCC88 Made in Holland - non-A frame (harder to find). 

Before you said it`s with Mullard Blackburn codes... now it`s Holland. Which one is it then?

Still waiting for your tubes factory codes btw (and I`m not the only one).

post #4629 of 6460
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoiL View Post
 

Before you said it`s with Mullard Blackburn codes... now it`s Holland. Which one is it then?

Still waiting for your tubes factory codes btw (and I`m not the only one).

If you read my earlier post on this I have already published.

 

Orange writing says - PCC88.Orange Globe Logo. Made in Holland

 

60% sure the etched code says B6J2  - the B could be an 8 which would make it 86J2 but due to the shape I am leaning toward the B. If the 8 makes more sense, then its an 8 because if it is a B, it would be Blackburn which would not make too much sense unless Mullard built for Amperex.

post #4630 of 6460

I just bought a turntabel, the line out from it is a phono line. Do I need a phono preamp before plugging the line into the Aune T1 or do I not? Thanks!

post #4631 of 6460

Han, yes you do.

 

A turntable is not a line level input so it requires a phono stage.  great inexpensive phono stage (really pushes up in class considering the price) is the ART DJ Pre II. You can get it on Amazon if you are in the states,

 

http://www.amazon.com/ART-II-Preamplifier-Output-Switchable/dp/B000AJR482

post #4632 of 6460

I've deleted a few posts in this thread. Please, in the future, do NOT reply to any post that is argumentative or abusive, just report the post and pretend it was never posted. What actually derails and ruins threads is not a post that starts an argument, but the replies to it. :smile:

post #4633 of 6460
Quote:
Originally Posted by copajohn View Post
 

Well, here goes...

 

I stumbled upon this wealth of information on Sunday (before the s-bowl).  I've had a T1 for about a year but never played with the tube.  Am hoping to get my Grado RS1i cans in the next few days and I bought some of the following...

 

$_1.JPG?set_id=880000500F

 

Amperex PQ 6922 1960 matched pair D Getter 063.  I believe I've done okay.  Spent some bucks to be sure.  What kind of burn in am I looking at for both the cans and the tubes?  Hours?  Days?  Weeks?  And what kind of music should I use or does that matter?

 

Thank you all for the previous messages.  I read most of them but so much to comprehend and learn about.  BTW, my other cans are Bose QC15 and Sennheiser HD580.  

 

The tubes made it along with the Grados.  All I have to say is oh my-just plain amazing!  Lots of bucks but I'm in heaven!

post #4634 of 6460

Thank You arcorob!

post #4635 of 6460
Quote:
Originally Posted by Currawong View Post
 

I've deleted a few posts in this thread. Please, in the future, do NOT reply to any post that is argumentative or abusive, just report the post and pretend it was never posted. What actually derails and ruins threads is not a post that starts an argument, but the replies to it. :smile:

 

Thanks for this. In the end, we're all here to enjoy this device that has great price to performance ratio. We're just here because we share a common interest. :o So lets have a constructive discussion.

 

As for on-topic-ness. I do think that starting a new thread with an amazing first post would be worth it. Many of the original posters have moved on and for the new people  the sheer length of the thread is likely overwhelming and discouraging. If I may make a suggestion, a first post with some general impressions or comparisons, like the Aune vs Magni/Modi vs FiiO E17, and some general FAQ's would be good. Then a second (and third?) post dedicated to tubes, broken down into price categories with a simple rating system. Then a fourth post for your cap modding. So maybe that sort of a layout for a new Aune thread could get the ball rolling.

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