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[REVIEW] Sony MH1 – The Best Kept Secret - Page 214

post #3196 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by FInixNOver View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by huckfinn View Post

Great,
Thanks for the link! I'll try it myself.
P.S.: does anyone now why the sound get distorted to the point of not being listenable when I plug the Mh-1 into an (original) ALO Rx? ...Is it the high gain setting on the amp?

Well, I can't say about that one, but I've had the chance to test the MH1's with 3 different amps from a friend headfier, and found them to have low tolerance to distortion.

CMoy
Either the amp didn't like the headphones, or the other way around, but the fact is that there was much distortion present from the get go.I didn't even need to raise the volume much. (One thing worth mentioning is that this particular amp had been sitting in the drawer for quite some time, but the fact remarks that I've also tested it with two other headphones, and the results were much better)

LISA III
On this one, the distortion sets in at half volume, with bass setting to half, otherwise, distortion will start sooner. Again tested with the same other two headphones, which faired way better, even at full bass!

O2
It was with this amp that I got the best results. They took more amping than with the other two amps before getting distorted.

Setup used for the tests
Source: Sansa Clip+
Amps: CMoy, Lisa III and O2
Headphones: Sony Ericsson MH-1, AKG K450 and VSonic GR07
Song: Chris Cornell - Part of me
Are you talking about audible, bad speaker type distortion? You would either have to be listening to mysic insanely, deafeningly loud or you have a problem with your mh1. I've had many sets and never an ounce of distortion. I've listened loud for some testing and on different sources and amps. They always sound clean. Have you tried another pair?
post #3197 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post


Are you talking about audible, bad speaker type distortion? You would either have to be listening to mysic insanely, deafeningly loud or you have a problem with your mh1. I've had many sets and never an ounce of distortion. I've listened loud for some testing and on different sources and amps. They always sound clean. Have you tried another pair?

Actually yes... I meant audible distortion... and like I said, it didn't need to go to very loud volumes, but then again, you're probably right, and maybe something was wrong with my MH-1. What I can say is, I could drive the 2 other headphones to insanely higher volumes (the kind I wouldn't dare to listen to more than a couple of minutes before "blowing out" an eardrum) when they started to distort...

My conclusions were based on said tests, and since I had only one pair, I couldn't rule out faulty drivers.

Since then, and as I've mentioned before, I managed to "kill" one of the drivers of that pair (still don't know the cause for it but anyway...), and have bought another pair, but still haven't gotten to re-cabling them, because I'm waiting on a few more supplies, like clear heat shrink and a clear shielding sleeve.

I won't be able to try the amps on this new pair, any time soon, because the amps were loaners, and I no longer have them with me.

I can, however, ask my friend to try the amps with his pair, and give me his feedback. I'll probably ask him for the amps again, once the re-cabling job is complete.

 

Again, as you said, it could be faulty drivers, since your experience tells you otherwise. One must share one's experience, and learn from other's contributions. I really appreciate that ;) 

post #3198 of 3320

To be honest I just couldn't even listen to any song, the distortion was so bad......:cool: 

at the same time, they work fine with my Leckerton UHA-6S MKII....:blink:


Edited by huckfinn - 6/9/14 at 1:47pm
post #3199 of 3320

So, I've asked my friend to test his pair of MH-1's, and he told me that, after listening to them to almost deafening volume, they produced distortion like any other pair he owns. I guess I had a faulty pair!! Suffice it to say that one of the drivers died...

Hopefully, I'll have better luck with the new pair. Still haven't re-cabled them though.... It's the downside of buying from china :D long waits...

post #3200 of 3320

I have 11 pairs of Sony MH1. I love them, except for their cable. Also, it seems to me the cable also has high resistance / impedance, so I tried to exchange it for a cheap 3.5mm to RCA cable:



 

I cut off the RCA plugs and the MH1 speakers. Then, I removed the cable plastic shell so the metal wires were out and accessible. I twisted together the bronze wires from the cable and the speakers as well as the colored (red / blue) wires from the speakers with the yellow and red cable wires from the 3.5mm cable.


However, I got no sound at all. I don’t understand it. Will there be sound once I soldered it together or did I do something wrong?  

 

Edit: I solved the problem. I didn’t burn off the red and blue coloring from the metal wires. Now it works fine, I just need to wait a day until the epoxy dries. :D


 


Edited by Kadano - 6/13/14 at 11:07am
post #3201 of 3320
Hi, I'm new here and have been following this with much interest that I have ordered a pair of MH1's. I have a question when rewiring to the driver about polariy + and - as you would normally connect any speaker, but I don't see it mentioned, is it not important on an iem driver?
post #3202 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bk555 View Post

Hi, I'm new here and have been following this with much interest that I have ordered a pair of MH1's. I have a question when rewiring to the driver about polariy + and - as you would normally connect any speaker, but I don't see it mentioned, is it not important on an iem driver?
Yes it is very important, like a speaker.

When you open the housing you will see where the wires are soldered onto the board terminals. You will also see some vents on one side with glue. If you hold the driver so that the glue part is on the bottom and the wire terminals are on top, the left wire is negative and the right wire is positive. It doesn't matter which driver itself is left or right though, just like a speaker.
post #3203 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post

Yes it is very important, like a speaker.

When you open the housing you will see where the wires are soldered onto the board terminals. You will also see some vents on one side with glue. If you hold the driver so that the glue part is on the bottom and the wire terminals are on top, the left wire is negative and the right wire is positive. It doesn't matter which driver itself is left or right though, just like a speaker.

Thats great thank you.

Would a heat gun help to ease the separation of the housing and stress relief?
post #3204 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bk555 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post

Yes it is very important, like a speaker.

When you open the housing you will see where the wires are soldered onto the board terminals. You will also see some vents on one side with glue. If you hold the driver so that the glue part is on the bottom and the wire terminals are on top, the left wire is negative and the right wire is positive. It doesn't matter which driver itself is left or right though, just like a speaker.

Thats great thank you.

Would a heat gun help to ease the separation of the housing and stress relief?

 

I've been meaning to try that. Not sure. It does appear to have some sort of bonding agent though, so maybe... But I don't know.

post #3205 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bk555 View Post


Thats great thank you.

Would a heat gun help to ease the separation of the housing and stress relief?

I've tried doing that, wouldn't recommend it.

Too much heat and the strain relief will start to deform and become ugly.

You're better off using other peoples technique, cutting the strain relief and glueing it back on.

post #3206 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by KorkiPoo View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bk555 View Post


Thats great thank you.

Would a heat gun help to ease the separation of the housing and stress relief?

I've tried doing that, wouldn't recommend it.

Too much heat and the strain relief will start to deform and become ugly.

You're better off using other peoples technique, cutting the strain relief and glueing it back on.

 

Nah, you don't need to cut it off. Use the pliers method I posted, also from ZMF. I have recabled 3 pairs successfully this way. You will probably get a small amount of nicks or dings in the stress relief, but when I do it this way, I can push and snap the stress relief back into place and the earphones are like new in terms of attachment. You need pliers to remove them again. If you break any tabs in the process it might not hold as well, but I have had luck going slow...

post #3207 of 3320

Finally, the rest of the parts I was waiting for have arrived, and it was time to re-cable my MH-1's.

 

(clear heat shrink / clear techflex sleeve / Y splits / 3.5mm stereo jacks)

 

I was going to make a detachable cable with techflex sleeving from the jack to the Y split.

It started well, until I realized the techflex wouldn't work with this kind of cable, it was just to stiff!! I came to the sad conclusion, that techflex is only suitable for building interconnect cables or other cables that don't require much flexibility.

 

That being said, I had the cable finished, and it was time to get to the drivers (but first a picture of the cable)

 

So far, so good, right? Not really!!... I guess the shure connectors were not the best choice, because after fitting one driver with the female connector, I plugged it to the cable to see if everything was fine. Apparently it was, if not for the fact that I would get intermittent audio when moving the cable around. At this time, I was starting to get upset because I wasn't getting the detachable cable after all... Oh well, lets strip the sure connectors from the cable and connect it directly to the drivers!

 

I had to cut the strain relief away, because it had to be tweaked, to receive the female shure connector, and now it wasn't in good shape.

 

Here are some pictures of the finished product

 

 

 

 

Overall I'm happy with the result, but I'll be making a new one in the near future, maybe with other connectors, a right angle jack. and paracord sleeving. Another thing I want to try is 3:1 heat shrink. I used 2:1 and I felt it need to be able to shrink a bit more, to get a perfect fit.

It was a good learning exercise! It allowed me have a better notion of the dimensions of wires, connectors, and other parts that make the cable. I now have more insight on what to choose, and how to proceed on my next project.

post #3208 of 3320
On my first attempt I damaged one side trying to separate the housing from the cable strain but at least I learnt something from it. My second attempt was successful with only a little mark on the cable strain from gently prising, i think I could avoid damage completely next go.

I took a very small flat headed precision screwdriver and filed it down extremely thin about half an inch along it. There is a small hole on the top of the cable strain and this is where I inserted the screwdriver sliding it into the housing towards the driver (carefull not to puch too far) just past the end of the inner cable relief joint, then gently prising it up against the edge of the housing until the cable strain and housing pops apart.

I'm not sure what cable to choose, are use guys using any particular speaker cable? Does the cable have to have a have a particular impedance or Ohm rating?
post #3209 of 3320
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bk555 View Post

On my first attempt I damaged one side trying to separate the housing from the cable strain but at least I learnt something from it. My second attempt was successful with only a little mark on the cable strain from gently prising, i think I could avoid damage completely next go.

I took a very small flat headed precision screwdriver and filed it down extremely thin about half an inch along it. There is a small hole on the top of the cable strain and this is where I inserted the screwdriver sliding it into the housing towards the driver (carefull not to puch too far) just past the end of the inner cable relief joint, then gently prising it up against the edge of the housing until the cable strain and housing pops apart.

I'm not sure what cable to choose, are use guys using any particular speaker cable? Does the cable have to have a have a particular impedance or Ohm rating?

About taking the housing apart, you should follow luisdent's awesome tutorial here.

 

For the cable, I'm using 26 AWG Clear XLPE wire from BTGAudio. Plussoundaudio and toxic cables, are also good alternatives. I'd go with toxic cables if I were in the UK, I ended up choosing BTGAudio because it had the lowest shipping rates, and it was my first experience with a custom cable.

Keep in mind that the MH-1's are a bit power hungry, (I'm only a noob but) I don't think they'll benefit from high impedance.

post #3210 of 3320

Hi, seems like MH1C modding is pretty popular here.

 

Can anybody please  confirm from personal experience if volume controls on MH1C will or will not work on Samsung galaxy s3 ?

 

Please answer for the good of mankind as a lot a people are interested in replacing the stock IEMs with better sounding ones like MH1C without losing much functionality .. there are not many options out there.

 

Makes my brain boil :angry_face: and heart ache :triportsad:.

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