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[REVIEW] Sony MH1 – The Best Kept Secret - Page 212

post #3166 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by FInixNOver View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

 

I saw those, but I believe the filters, foam and everything would need to fit perfectly for the sound to be unchanged. I'm doubting that would be the case. Plus, I can't get the drivers out of the housing, because the stress relief is stuck in there, but just destroyed from there to the back... In other words, the stress relief is basically acting like cement holding the drivers in the housing, but none of it is protruding out of the housing to grab onto. So I need to go with something that can be applied to the back of the existing housing.

 

I was thinking something like rin used...

 

Although I had considered changes in sound, caused by different dimensions, I didn't account for the dimensions of the filter, and how it all would come together, inside the new housing.

And if getting the drivers out is no longer a possibility, IMHO, the epoxy putty would be a better alternative when comparing to liquid epoxy. With the putty and some dremel work, you could achieve some nice results.

I still haven't received my new pair (I was hoping they would arrive last week). And I still have to wait for the rest of the parts to arrive, so I can only say something about how it goes with the putty, by the end of the month... if all goes according to delivery dates estimations...

 

Have you asked him what he used, to achieve that result? I don't particularly like the wire placement... A right angle would be a better fit for me, since I prefer to use them over ears...

 

I have, but he doesn't seem to respond to pm or his blog... :/

post #3167 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillywalks View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

 

The process is the same either way. You need to pull the stress relief out of the housing using pliers or something similar. I'm making a tutorial as we speak. You just need to be extra careful not to pull the wires off the board when separating the parts. If you manage to do that, you can then just inspect the board and I bet you'll find one of the vents is blocks by glue.

 

This is just a guess, but the only thing I can imagine would be affected by moisture or heat or whatever would be the small holes in the board that act as vents. Every mh1 i've opened has had a slightly different amount or shape of glue. I'm guessing people that have imbalance either have glue over one vent from the factory or something. For people who's vents become blocked, I'm guessing something causes the glue to shift, perhaps sitting in a hot car or something. Otherwise, maybe something else gets in the vents like sweat? Maybe evaporating sometimes helps, but since sweat isn't 100% water, there is residue left that builds on the vents?

 

These are all just theories, but if you can carefully open them you might be able to verify one.

guess i'll wait for your tutorial before yanking on any cables ;)

 

I'm getting carpal tunnel writing this: :-P I think it's done!

 

http://handtokey.blogspot.com/2014/05/sony-mh1-recable-by-luisdent-tutorial.html

post #3168 of 3345
^ wow! great job.
post #3169 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

 

I'm getting carpal tunnel writing this: :-P I think it's done!

 

http://handtokey.blogspot.com/2014/05/sony-mh1-recable-by-luisdent-tutorial.html

^

post #3170 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soyabeaner View Post

First, remove the ear tip.

Then poke a pin or needle into any part of the outer edge of the filter mesh (the black circle that surrounds the center white circle) and carefully pry it out. The idea is kind of like removing a lid of paint can (I know, poor comparison). The filter mesh is very thin, so the pin/needle doesn't have to be poked that deeply to pry it out. The filter mesh is stuck on top the foam behind it, so when you pry it out both should slowly be coming out of the housing.

Here's a picture I found on another thread. The grey piece is the foam that you need to ensure it's straight like this:

 

thanks for that!

after removing the left side (which was dull) and reinserting it, it now sound perfectly clear again. so much so, that now the right side was more muted and i had to repeat the preocedure ;)

so a general piece of advice to everyone if you think maybe your headphone have gotten a little worse, quieter or muted just pluck out the mesh and foam and reinsert it. worked great!

post #3171 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

 

I'm getting carpal tunnel writing this: :-P I think it's done!

 

http://handtokey.blogspot.com/2014/05/sony-mh1-recable-by-luisdent-tutorial.html

Awesome work!! :) And just in time too! My new pair of MH1's have just arrived. I'm going to star taking them apart while the rest of the parts make their way to my place in the next couple of weeks, which is killing me to have to wait so long...

Once their arrived, I'm left wondering if I should have bought another white pair, instead of black... On the bright side, now I have black, white, orange and green tips for them :D 

post #3172 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

 

I have, but he doesn't seem to respond to pm or his blog... :/

Oh... So you're pretty much on your own then... :confused_face: 

I'm sure you'll find a way :L3000:

post #3173 of 3345

luisdent, check this one out:

http://www.lunashops.co.uk/goods-1609.html

With a little tweaking, maybe it will fit as strain relief/back housing.

post #3174 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by FInixNOver View Post
 

luisdent, check this one out:

http://www.lunashops.co.uk/goods-1609.html

With a little tweaking, maybe it will fit as strain relief/back housing.

Interesting I think we're getting closer. ;)

post #3175 of 3345

First step completed!! I've used heat shrink to protect the metal part from scratching with the pliers.

 

 

 

 

The drivers didn't come out of the metal housing... Not a big deal though :D

Now, I have to wait for the rest of the parts.

post #3176 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by FInixNOver View Post

First step completed!! I've used heat shrink to protect the metal part from scratching with the pliers.










The drivers didn't come out of the metal housing... Not a big deal though biggrin.gif
Now, I have to wait for the rest of the parts.
No biggie, you should still be able to solder them. :-)
post #3177 of 3345
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post


No biggie, you should still be able to solder them. :-)

The way I'm planing to do this, I won't need to solder the drivers. Since I'll be using a detachable cable, it's not going straight to the drivers. I only took them apart, to figure out the best way to attach the female plug.

post #3178 of 3345
Thanks for this awesome tutorial!
post #3179 of 3345
I bought Luisdents white recabled MH1. This is hands down the best looking MH1 I've seen; plus the BTG SPC wire he used is super flexible. Just a fantastic job-





post #3180 of 3345

I've been working on doing my own custom shells.  In the process I destroyed one of my balanced armature drivers while soldering.  So I decided to take a shot an fitting my MH1c's into the shells I made.  Luckily for me, I have large diameter canals and given how small the diameter of the MH1c is, I was able to put the driver close to the tip of the shell.  I used heat shrink tubing to seal the driver against the tip.  Here's a pic.  They sound great.  Plan to put on the faceplates tonight.  

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