Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Portable Headphones, Earphones and In-Ear Monitors › [REVIEW] Sony MH1 – The Best Kept Secret
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[REVIEW] Sony MH1 – The Best Kept Secret - Page 207

post #3091 of 3326
Depends on what you use them with. iPhone does not need an adapter for the mh1 but a nano 6g does.
post #3092 of 3326

wait what , so will i need an adapter to use the earphone on my sansa fuze .. ? i thought it was the same plug as everything else. I dont need pause play stop functionality i just want to listen to music lol 

post #3093 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by jekostas View Post

If you're going to tell someone to get the MH1 instead of the MH1c at least have the courtesy to mention that they'll need an adapter.
It wasn't a lack of courtesy :-P I just always forget, because use a recabled version. However you need an adapter for the mh1c as well depending on what device you use it on. Mh1c is ctia and mh1 is omtp. So they both need the same adapter if the device you have is the opposite standard.
Edited by luisdent - 4/20/14 at 5:51pm
post #3094 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by hydroninja View Post
 

wait what , so will i need an adapter to use the earphone on my sansa fuze .. ? i thought it was the same plug as everything else. I dont need pause play stop functionality i just want to listen to music lol 

For sound alone you can just pass it through any standard 3.5 extension type cable. That will automatically join the mic and ground contacts and make the audio work but the controls will not.

post #3095 of 3326

DEEEeeeeeeeeUUUMMMMM! :-)  Check this out!

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

Came off PERFECTLY! Thanks to ZMF for the tip. :-) 

post #3096 of 3326

 

 

I've received the ZMF-modded MH1, although it's little late. Love that build quality because it looks like a home-made IEM with lovely sound. Because the vents are closed, I have to agree that it's less boomy and overall sound became very bright. It reminds me of that horrifying XBA-30's piercing and peaky treble; but it's not like that. The upper treble is pleasant like Yamaha EPH-100. However, the MH1 lacks of L and R marking so I painted them with red and blue, making 'em look sexier. Clipper were put because the cable slightly heavy for my taste.

post #3097 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

DEEEeeeeeeeeUUUMMMMM! :-)  Check this out!


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

 

Came off PERFECTLY! Thanks to ZMF for the tip. :-) 

Wow nice one! All set to a re-cable, all the way to the drivers!! Can't wait to see the result...

post #3098 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandasaputra View Post
 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

I've received the ZMF-modded MH1, although it's little late. Love that build quality because it looks like a home-made IEM with lovely sound. Because the vents are closed, I have to agree that it's less boomy and overall sound became very bright. It reminds me of that horrifying XBA-30's piercing and peaky treble; but it's not like that. The upper treble is pleasant like Yamaha EPH-100. However, the MH1 lacks of L and R marking so I painted them with red and blue, making 'em look sexier. Clipper were put because the cable slightly heavy for my taste.

These look great!!

post #3099 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

DEEEeeeeeeeeUUUMMMMM! :-)  Check this out!

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

Came off PERFECTLY! Thanks to ZMF for the tip. :-) 

You going to share that tip?

post #3100 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutnicks View Post
 

You going to share that tip?


Yep!  All you gotta do is twist and pull. 


Edited by zach915m - 4/22/14 at 11:12am
post #3101 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutnicks View Post
 

You going to share that tip?

+1

post #3102 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by FInixNOver View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutnicks View Post
 

You going to share that tip?

+1

 

Sure thing. Just been busy...

 

I used a pair of flat nose pliers that had a bit of teeth like these:

 

 

 

 for grip to hold the housing and then a pair of end cutter type pliers like these:

 

 

I place the fine edge of the end cutter inside the groove that separates the housing and stress relief material as much as possible right in the groove. I then held the housing tightly in my left hand and pulled them apart using my right hand end cutters to pull. I turned it back and forth very gently as I pulled them apart to try and loosen things. It seemed like it was never going to come off, but I just kept doing it and it finally came off.

post #3103 of 3326

On another note. Just finished another recable joining the wire style for someone. Use the right angle neutrik, custom cord lock slider and wire colors per his preferene. All coper below the split. Grounds joined in the middle to reduce the cable size/thickness/weight and increase flexibility.

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

I'm not sure if I sealed the strain relief extra well or what, but I put tape on the vents and these sound the best I've heard so far stock...  I'm not sure I want to give them to the buyer. ;) hahaha


Edited by luisdent - 4/22/14 at 4:36pm
post #3104 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

 

Sure thing. Just been busy...

 

I used a pair of flat nose pliers that had a bit of teeth like these:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 for grip to hold the housing and then a pair of end cutter type pliers like these:

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

I place the fine edge of the end cutter inside the groove that separates the housing and stress relief material as much as possible right in the groove. I then held the housing tightly in my left hand and pulled them apart using my right hand end cutters to pull. I turned it back and forth very gently as I pulled them apart to try and loosen things. It seemed like it was never going to come off, but I just kept doing it and it finally came off.

Deeeuummmm! That seems like a lot of work.

I'm going to order a pair of MH-1's so I can try that.

Also, I'll be buying some cable. Still not sure about which will be the best connectors though (to have a detachable cable)...

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

On another note. Just finished another recable joining the wire style for someone. Use the right angle neutrik, custom cord lock slider and wire colors per his preferene. All coper below the split. Grounds joined in the middle to reduce the cable size/thickness/weight and increase flexibility.


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

 

 

I'm not sure if I sealed the strain relief extra well or what, but I put tape on the vents and these sound the best I've heard so far stock...  I'm not sure I want to give them to the buyer. ;) hahaha

And another fine job!!! I'm soooo jealous right now!! xD

post #3105 of 3326
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

 

Sure thing. Just been busy...

 

I used a pair of flat nose pliers that had a bit of teeth like these:

 

 

 

 for grip to hold the housing and then a pair of end cutter type pliers like these:

 

 

I place the fine edge of the end cutter inside the groove that separates the housing and stress relief material as much as possible right in the groove. I then held the housing tightly in my left hand and pulled them apart using my right hand end cutters to pull. I turned it back and forth very gently as I pulled them apart to try and loosen things. It seemed like it was never going to come off, but I just kept doing it and it finally came off.


AHA! Thanks

 

.It looks like there is some kind of contact cement residue there. Are they actually glued together or just a really tight press fit?

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Portable Headphones, Earphones and In-Ear Monitors › [REVIEW] Sony MH1 – The Best Kept Secret