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[REVIEW] Sony MH1 – The Best Kept Secret - Page 203

post #3031 of 3560
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kadano View Post
 


Does that mean that switching the ground and mic wires within the remote will do what I want (convert to CTIA)?

 

Very much yes.

post #3032 of 3560

Switching ground and mic is exactly what you want. Sometimes wires in headphones don't take solder well, so you'd want to take your time and maybe use some flux pre tin the wires when attempting this.


Edited by markanini - 4/5/14 at 10:01pm
post #3033 of 3560
All the ctia to omtp adapters do is switch the ground and mic sleeve. I've yet to find any diy four pole 3.5 connectors to make my own adapters.
post #3034 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post
 

 

Very much yes.

I just did it and it didn’t work.

 

What did I do exactly?

Open up the remote and resolder the cables on M− and M+ in reverse order. 

When I plugged the modded headset to my Sony Xperia Sola (CTIA), it said “unsopported headset type”. A different vanilla MH1 with CTIA↔OMTP adapter worked just fine on that phone.

 

So I searched further, and within the comment section of this blog entry, elerouxx reported the same problem: http://handtokey.blogspot.co.at/2013/11/converting-omtp-headphone-to-standard.html

 

However, when I tried to do the same (remove supposed speaker ground (copper/yellow cable next to M+, under the tiny paper sheet), solder it to M−), the remote still didn’t work, and the sound wasn’t good either. When I connected the copper/yellow cable to it’s original spot again, the audio was fine again, but the remote still didn’t work.

 

I ended up soldering M+, M− and the copper/yellow cable together. Now, I have a TRS-compatible headphone just like the blog entry gave instructions for. But from elerouxx’s explanations, I’m not sure what I should have done differently.

 

Has somebody here done OMTP→CTIA modding just by re-soldering within the remote? If so, it would be really nice to explain to us how you did it, preferably with pictures.

post #3035 of 3560

Can you explain in more detail what you did?


Edited by luisdent - 4/6/14 at 11:06am
post #3036 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

Can you explain in more detail what you did?


I used your picture because I already glued the remote of the MH1 I worked on together. My third attempt was simply going for TRS, so I soldered M− and M+ together so that I’d at least have proper audio.

post #3037 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kadano View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luisdent View Post
 

Can you explain in more detail what you did?


I used your picture because I already glued the remote of the MH1 I worked on together. My third attempt was simply going for TRS, so I soldered M− and M+ together so that I’d at least have proper audio.

 

Interesting. I think that photo might be wrong. I made the tutorial after I had done everything. I'm thinking the pins are wrong.

 

Any thoughts clieos? I know that converting omtp to ctia is literally simply swapping the two ground sleeve points. My brain hurts at the moment (literally). I'll have to think about this. The easiest way to make sure you are doing it correctly is to use a multimeter on continuity mode. Make sure the two wires you are swapping are the two that are on the ground portion of the jack. In other words, the two that are not the tip and ring.

 

UPDATE:  I'll be recabling a few more soon. I'll make sure to verify the pins and I'll even do a converter test when I have it taken apart...


Edited by luisdent - 4/6/14 at 2:15pm
post #3038 of 3560
Thread Starter 

I took apart my OMTP MH1 and has a close look. The part about swapping the M+/M- for remote is actually right. The problem lies in another area - In most headset, the ground wire get soldered directly into the same wire as mic's ground, and swapping them will finish the conversion. Unfortunately on the MH1, Sony uses individual ground wires for the left / right / mic ground, so swapping the wires on remote only reverses the mic's wiring, but not the ground on the speaker (which needs to go into the new ground). It is the speaker's wiring that stop the headset from being correctly detected by cellphone, not the remote. To rectify the problem, you will have to rewire the ground wire on both earpieces as well. It is easy to do on the left earpiece because the wire runs alongside with the mic's wires, but not on the right side as it will require splicing the cable up and rewiring the right ground to the (new) mic's ground. It can be done but obviously it will be a much more complicated operation. It might be easily just to source another headset and use its cable+remote as donor.

post #3039 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClieOS View Post

I took apart my OMTP MH1 and has a close look. The part about swapping the M+/M- for remote is actually right. The problem lies in another area - In most headset, the ground wire get soldered directly into the same wire as mic's ground, and swapping them will finish the conversion. Unfortunately on the MH1, Sony uses individual ground wires for the left / right / mic ground, so swapping the wires on remote only reverses the mic's wiring, but not the ground on the speaker (which needs to go into the new ground). It is the speaker's wiring that stop the headset from being correctly detected by cellphone, not the remote. To rectify the problem, you will have to rewire the ground wire on both earpieces as well. It is easy to do on the left earpiece because the wire runs alongside with the mic's wires, but not on the right side as it will require splicing the cable up and rewiring the right ground to the (new) mic's ground. It can be done but obviously it will be a much more complicated operation. It might be easily just to source another headset and use its cable+remote as donor.
Ah. I knew it was something odd. So you could swap them by splicing the cable though and doing each wire still? I guess a new remote or adapter is probably easier.
post #3040 of 3560

Got my ZMF recabled MH1 the other day. I requested a black cable, and Zach obliged no questions asked. Originally the recable I received was a bit short, and when I brought this up to Zach he immediately sent out a new recabled MH1, without even waiting to get my first pair back! He usually replies right away too, so great service from ZMF all around. 

 

Build

Solid. The black cable is from BTG Audio, and is one of the best cables in the business. It's thin, strong, and flexible with minimal memory. Microphonics are very low or non-existent when worn over the ear. Heat shrink covers the shortened strain relief and the bass vent on the top of the barrel, resulting in a very clean look. A rubber chin slider helps secure the wire for an over-the-ear fit. The braid is tight and secure, and I opted for a right angle connector. Overall I'm very pleased with this all turned out. 

 

Sound

Audibly reduced bass! I'd estimate at least a 3dB decrease from stock, achieved by covering the bass vent and sealing the strain relief. Vocals sound a bit less warm, a welcome improvement over the already top-tier mids. These things really excel with acoustic music with their forward mids and smooth treble, and the otherwise boomy bass recedes a bit into the background, becoming less of an issue than with bass-heavy genres like edm or hip-hop (or even bass prevelant rock). 

 

More Recables?

User luisdent has sent me his first recable success to try out, and the results are also a massive improvement over stock. He's opted for some thicker copper and silver wire, with some longer heat shrink over the strain relief, a product of soldering directly to the cable rather than go in through the housing (although lusident's MH1 recable v2.0 will likely go straight into the housing). Still, the strain relief is short enough to wear over the ear. Regarding microphonics, they're a bit more pronounced than the BTG cable, and shirt clip goes a long way in helping to reduce it. The chin slider looks to be a piece of heat shrink, and it works great.  

 

But enough talk! I offer some pics for your enjoyment:

 

 

 

 

 

 


Edited by gnarlsagan - 4/7/14 at 10:11pm
post #3041 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnarlsagan View Post
 

Got my ZMF recabled MH1 the other day. I requested a black cable, and Zach obliged no questions asked. Originally the recable I received was a bit short, and when I brought this up to Zach he immediately sent out a new recabled MH1, without even waiting to get my first pair back! He usually replies right away too, so great service from ZMF all around. 

 

Build

Solid. The black cable is from BTG Audio, and is one of the best cables in the business. It's thin, strong, and flexible with minimal memory. Microphonics are very low or non-existent when worn over the ear. Heat shrink covers the shortened strain relief and the bass vent on the top of the barrel, resulting in a very clean look. A rubber chin slider helps secure the wire for an over-the-ear fit. The braid is tight and secure, and I opted for a right angle connector. Overall I'm very pleased with this all turned out. 

 

Sound

Audibly reduced bass! I'd estimate at least a 3dB decrease from stock, achieved by covering the bass vent and sealing the strain relief. Vocals sound a bit less warm, a welcome improvement over the already top-tier mids. These things really excel with acoustic music with their forward mids and smooth treble, and the otherwise boomy bass recedes a bit into the background, becoming less of an issue than with bass-heavy genres like edm or hip-hop (or even bass prevelant rock). 

 

More Recables?

User luisdent has sent me his first recable success to try out, and the results are also a massive improvement over stock. He's opted for some thicker copper and silver wire, with some longer heat shrink over the strain relief, a product of soldering directly to the cable rather than go in through the housing (although lusident's MH1 recable v2.0 will likely go straight into the housing). Still, the strain relief is short enough to wear over the ear. Regarding microphonics, they're a bit more pronounced than the BTG cable, and shirt clip goes a long way in helping to reduce it. The chin slider looks to be a piece of heat shrink, and it works great.  

 

But enough talk! I offer some pics for your enjoyment:

 

 

 

 

 

 


^ Hmmmm YUMMY!!!

 

Thanks for those delicious pics/ impressions. :)

 

edit: D'YAM that black cable looks sexy as hell. ME WANT IT NOW!!!


Edited by sfwalcer - 4/7/14 at 10:21pm
post #3042 of 3560
Yes, that cordlock is heatshrink on top of a piece of index card wrapped around the cable. That gives it rigidity while keeping the heatshrink from grabbing the cable too much. Just the heat shrunk edges around the index card provide grip, while the card itself provides smooth dragging. :-) seemed to work pretty good for me. Always experimenting though...
post #3043 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnarlsagan View Post
 

 

Sound

Audibly reduced bass! I'd estimate at least a 3dB decrease from stock, achieved by covering the bass vent and sealing the strain relief. Vocals sound a bit less warm, a welcome improvement over the already top-tier mids. These things really excel with acoustic music with their forward mids and smooth treble, and the otherwise boomy bass recedes a bit into the background, becoming less of an issue than with bass-heavy genres like edm or hip-hop (or even bass prevelant rock). 

 

 

Noooooo the bass is reduced?! Isn't that the bass is the meat of the mh1?! How much has it been reduced?

post #3044 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandasaputra View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by gnarlsagan View Post

 

Sound
Audibly reduced bass! I'd estimate at least a 3dB decrease from stock, achieved by covering the bass vent and sealing the strain relief. Vocals sound a bit less warm, a welcome improvement over the already top-tier mids. These things really excel with acoustic music with their forward mids and smooth treble, and the otherwise boomy bass recedes a bit into the background, becoming less of an issue than with bass-heavy genres like edm or hip-hop (or even bass prevelant rock). 

Noooooo the bass is reduced?! Isn't that the bass is the meat of the mh1?! How much has it been reduced?
3db isn't too much, but with a bit of bass cut at the right frequencies, the mh1 becomes more technically flat and details are more apparent, without really sacrificing the nice bass.
post #3045 of 3560
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gandasaputra View Post

Noooooo the bass is reduced?! Isn't that the bass is the meat of the mh1?! How much has it been reduced?

The bass vent and strain relief are only covered by request. Like I said though, bass is reduced by about 3-4dB if they're covered. It's still pronounced.
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