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[REVIEW] Sony MH1 – The Best Kept Secret - Page 150

post #2236 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofastreamer View Post

is there any high end universal with exact the same soundsignature as the mh1, with as much sub bass and smmoth rolled off highs, but with better detail and imaging?

 

Out of those I've heard, the Fitear TOGO 334 is closest.

post #2237 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by james444 View Post

 

Out of those I've heard, the Fitear TOGO 334 is closest.

 

Fitear togo 334 costs about USD$1,340

Sony MH1C costs about USD$30

 

That works out to be a little more than 44x the cost difference. Question for any sane person. Will there be a 44x better comfort and sound quality?

 

Steve

post #2238 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofastreamer View Post

is there any high end universal with exact the same soundsignature as the mh1, with as much sub bass and smmoth rolled off highs, but with better detail and imaging?

I'd try the Monster Turbine Pro Coppers. I have the Golds and the sound sig is 98% the same.
post #2239 of 3384
meanwhile i found out, that my ie80 comes close with bassnknob fully turned
post #2240 of 3384

Is there a close alternative to mh1c ?


Edited by dauhak - 5/5/13 at 5:52am
post #2241 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofastreamer View Post

is there any high end universal with exact the same soundsignature as the mh1, with as much sub bass and smmoth rolled off highs, but with better detail and imaging?

 

Even im looking for an alternative to mh1c, cos i cant get a good seal :(

post #2242 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyRocket View Post


I'd try the Monster Turbine Pro Coppers. I have the Golds and the sound sig is 98% the same.

Never heard the golds, but the coppers lose a certain amount of midrange smoothness, sounding more shouty...

 

An improvement for sure, but - not neccesarily the same sound signature - as said though, not heard the golds to compare...

post #2243 of 3384

Closest iem with same sound signature is xba-3/30.

post #2244 of 3384
as the mh1 as a huge sub bass emphasis, i guess the xba40 might be a safer bet
post #2245 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofastreamer View Post

as the mh1 as a huge sub bass emphasis, i guess the xba40 might be a safer bet

 

Sub bass emphasis?

 

I think you might be needing this ttp://tinyurl.com/czkmlhh

post #2246 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuttlebutte View Post

In case this information might be of use to anyone...

 

I'm a fan of Shure olives (Shure PA910 black foam sleeves) because of their overall functionality (they provide good noise isolation, are durable, and enhance bass), and I think I came up with a very good way to get them to fit the MH1C.  Here’s the gist:

 

1.  Cut two segments of .140 inside diameter silicon tubing (I used this: http://www.marinemetal.com/products/accessories/silicone-air-line-tubing-6/item/silicone-air-line-tubing-6) to equal lengths of your choosing, and put them on the monitors.  These will serve as the new cores for the olives.

2.  De-core the olives (I did this by peeling the foam away from most of the core, starting from the narrow end of the tip and using my fingernails, then biting down on the exposed end of the core while slowly pulling the foam completely away from the core with thumb and index finger). 

3.  Wait for the olives to retain their original shape

4.  Doing one side at a time, stretch the inside opening of an olive by putting a needle nose pliers through it, and then opening the pliers enough to enlarge the inside opening to about double its original circumference, if not a little more than double.  While leaving the olive stretched on the end of the pliers, create a thin ring of super glue (I used Krazy Glue) around the entire circumference of the silicon tubing installed on the monitor, near (2-3 mm from) the end farthest from the monitor.  Quickly remove the olive from the pliers, and quickly slide it onto the tubing in the desired position, making sure that the tubing extends through nearly the entire length of the olive (note: the super glue pretty much instantly bonds with the olive—after about ½ second the olive is stuck to the tubing).  If the inside openings of the olives are not stretched/enlarged, they will not slide onto the tubing, as their unadulterated orifice is smaller than the tubing.  If you try to force the olives on without first enlarging their inside opening, you will compress/distort them, and then the super glue will dry them to the tubing in that state (which is not good).  Also, if the tubing does not extend through most of the length of the olives, when you try to put the olives in your ear they will compress/smush near the end without the rigid structure of the tubing, making it difficult to insert them.  Also, if you use too much glue it will bleed out on the end of the olive closest to the monitor and cause the end to harden, such that when you try to insert the olive into your ear it will not fully compress.

 

I’ve found this to be a pretty quick and effective way to get olives to fit on the MH1Cs.  I made my tubing long enough so that the tips go about 2 mm farther into my ear canal than those of my Etymotic MC5s, and I’d say the MH1Cs do as good a job of noise isolation as the Etymotics (while they sound much better).  The super glue does a great job of bonding the olive to the silicon tubing (so much so that after struggling to rip an olive from the tubing during an experiment, a veneer of foam remained where I had lined the tubing with super glue).  The tubing fits very snugly on the monitor, so that you don’t have to worry about pulling the monitor out of your ear and forgetting the olive, and is firm enough that the olives can be easily inserted (olives with a flaccid core tend to compress/smush in the ear, but the rigid silicon core provides for easy insertion).

 

Here are some example photos of the final product:

 

1000

1000

1000

 

After giving a few MH1Cs fitted with these tips away, I had a recipient whose ear canals were too small to comfortably accommodate even the small olives on the silicon tubing I specified in the earlier post.  I found a workaround though:

 

1.  De-core two small olives according to de-coring directions provided in the earlier post.

2.  Cut four equal lengths of 3/8" diameter heat shrink tubing to the desired core length.

3.  Heat shrink one tube to each monitor so that the monitor flange holds the tubing in place (I used a candle to do this, keeping the monitors and tubing about 1" away from the flame and trying not to get the monitor too hot).  Slide an additional tube on each monitor, so it is completely covering the tube that has already been shrunk, then heat shrink the tube in place.  The end result of this will be a double layer of heat shrink tubing shrunk to each monitor such that the monitor flange will hold it in place.

4.  (Make sure the de-cored olives have regained their original shape before attempting this step).  Put just a little super glue on the outside of the outer heat shrink tube, and then spread it evenly about the tube circumference, between the end of the tube farthest from the monitor and the terminus of the monitor flange (I used a q-tip with the cotton ends cut off to spread the super glue).  Slide the de-cored olive onto the tube far enough so that the narrow end of the olive is nearly flush with the end of the tube farthest from the monitor.  Repeat for other monitor.



The double layer of heat shrunk tubing is much narrower than the silicon tubing I used previously (it close to the same diameter as the original olive cores), and combined with small olives should serve to better fit narrow ear canals.  The tubing really seems to firmly grab on to the monitor flanges, such that I’m so far not worried about tips of this design coming off in-ear.  I initially tried one layer of heat shrink tubing on each monitor, but discovered that the inside diameter of a de-cored olive is wider than the outside diameter of shrunken 3/8” heat shrink tubing.  Hence, the double layer of heat shrink tubing.  Below is a hopefully-not-too-blurry photo of the final product.  If anyone decides to give this a try, let me know how it goes…


Edited by Scuttlebutte - 5/8/13 at 8:17pm
post #2247 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duncan View Post

Never heard the golds, but the coppers lose a certain amount of midrange smoothness, sounding more shouty...

An improvement for sure, but - not neccesarily the same sound signature - as said though, not heard the golds to compare...

I haven't heard the coppers, but the Golds sound sig is very close. If you were listening casually it would be hard to tell the difference. The MH1c does not sound at all like the Sony XBA-3 IMO.
post #2248 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyRocket View Post


I haven't heard the coppers, but the Golds sound sig is very close. If you were listening casually it would be hard to tell the difference. The MH1c does not sound at all like the Sony XBA-3 IMO.

 

Agreed. During my short audition of the XBA-3 (I returned them), here's my impression between the XBA-3 and the MH1C:

 

XBA 3 has a more forward and less dark midrange but is also quite relaxing. The bass is punchier/tighter, but the MH1C has similar bass. I think the MH1C has better sub-bass/rumble. The major downside to the XBA-3 was the unnatural treble. High-hats and cymbals sounded "tinny," and there's no sparkle - it just kind of "fizzes" out. For me, the MH1C sounds more natural (many say the XBA series sounds a bit metallic), so I kept the MH1C. 

post #2249 of 3384

Does anyone know where i can get these re-cabled for a reasonable price? The J cable is too annoying for me.

post #2250 of 3384
Quote:
Originally Posted by mercatorn View Post

Does anyone know where i can get these re-cabled for a reasonable price? The J cable is too annoying for me.

Would also like to know thisetysmile.gif

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