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Analog Squared Paper Discussion Thread. - Page 185

post #2761 of 3704

I ordered some Siemens, telefunken, philips, valvos, and all mixed up tubes..

post #2762 of 3704

bmichels - nice to hear (for you with headphone, for me more reading than hearing) - i have one small problem with that cable - as i am not familar with french language, i was not able to find where to order just some meters of that wires - could you post a link directly pointing to this position in the shop ?!

post #2763 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

okay, to have a real estimation of the runtime of the amp with different tube combos i opened the amp, desoldered the plus pole of the battery to connect a multimeter to measure the real current needed while music was playing at medium level and calculated the runtime based on shikada-san's information of about seven hours with a standard tube set:

 

df91 - dl92 - 240 mA - 7 hours

df96 - dl92 - 220mA - 8 hours

df97 - 3s4t - 215 mA - 8 hours

 

dl92 / 3s4t in powersave mode:

 

df97 - dl92 - 140 mA - 12 hours

df97 - 3s4t - 140 mA - 12 hours

 

- the power consumption measured is nearly independent of the volume of the music

- a significant part of the power consumption is needed for grid and anode voltage and current

 

at the moment i wonder if the orion 3s4t are really 3s4t types, but i seems so as the results and differences with the 1l33 are similar small.

 

so if you want a runtime of about 12 hours (nevertheless a significant improvement) you can achieve this using df96 and dl92 tubes cutting pin 1 of the dl92 tubes (good to own at least four of the same type and manufacturer when doing that).

 

this is what i posted about battery runtime some time ago for the tu-05.


Edited by GermanGuy - 11/13/13 at 11:24am
post #2764 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

bmichels - nice to hear (for you with headphone, for me more reading than hearing) - i have one small problem with that cable - as i am not familar with french language, i was not able to find where to order just some meters of that wires - could you post a link directly pointing to this position in the shop ?!

well, he do not sell cable only.  And you need to know that he buy this nice cable from "double Helix".  

So if you want just cable, you better go to "double Helix".

 

here is their "Custom-8-wire MOLECULE-SE cable"  that my French guy uses I believe.

 


Edited by bmichels - 11/13/13 at 3:50pm
post #2765 of 3704

thanks a lot!

post #2766 of 3704

after a long time of searching i found the first good 3.5mm plug:

 

4802_2320_Datenstecker_Signalstecker_nicht_SGE_PG12 

4802_2300_Datenstecker_Signalstecker_nicht_SGE_PG12

 

 

http://www.schurter.com/Components/Connectors/Data-Signal-Connectors

 

the construction of this plugs  is much better than the build of the usual ones and made like the larger neutrik 6.3mm plugs, available to directly solder or pcb mount, gold contacts.

post #2767 of 3704
Thread Starter 
My friend A2P TU 05 gold champagne special edition drive LCD X

Source : iBasso DX 50 mod
Amp : A2P TU 05 gold champagne special edition with stock tube
Headphone : LCD X

SQ is excellent

cd57fbc3716b67598f20946be1a604e3_zps2a73f310.jpg
post #2768 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudi0504 View Post

My friend A2P TU 05 gold champagne special edition drive LCD X

Source : iBasso DX 50 mod
Amp : A2P TU 05 gold champagne special edition with stock tube
Headphone : LCD X

SQ is excellent

Great set-up ! What are your stock tubes ?
post #2769 of 3704
That looks great Rudi, though I am really concerned about the size of jack going into the amp with the blue cable. These sockets are the mini ones and I find them not as strong. That looks huge and the weight alone could shorten the life of the socket i feel, great set up though, I love the gold!
post #2770 of 3704
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmichels View Post

Great set-up ! What are your stock tubes ?

Thank you
I am sorry , this TU 05 is belong to my friend Bohringer
I will ask him for the stock tube

Quote:
Originally Posted by ianmedium View Post

That looks great Rudi, though I am really concerned about the size of jack going into the amp with the blue cable. These sockets are the mini ones and I find them not as strong. That looks huge and the weight alone could shorten the life of the socket i feel, great set up though, I love the gold!

Thank you Ian
His gold champagne edition size is longer as stock TU 05 , because he ordered with 6,3 mm and 4 Pin balance connector .
Because of these connector the housing is bigger .
The green cable is the green line cable from ALO with 6,3 mm connector .
The 3.5 mm connector is on the right site from 6,3 mm connector
post #2771 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

after a long time of searching i found the first good 3.5mm plug:

 

4802_2320_Datenstecker_Signalstecker_nicht_SGE_PG12 

4802_2300_Datenstecker_Signalstecker_nicht_SGE_PG12

 

 

http://www.schurter.com/Components/Connectors/Data-Signal-Connectors

 

the construction of this plugs  is much better than the build of the usual ones and made like the larger neutrik 6.3mm plugs, available to directly solder or pcb mount, gold contacts.

This is indeed a great find because the 1/8 jack female is usually a week part of an amp.  But... for me the ideal 1/8 jack female will be one with 4 connectors where the ground-Right and ground-Left are NOT connected together and remain independant when there are no 1/8 male inserted.  With a "normal" 1/8 female jack in the circuit, you cannot have Right-Left totally disconected unless you insert a switch in the circuit that disable the 1/8 jack when not used... and an additional switch in the circuit is another part inserted in the signal path...   You never found such 1/8 jack female with 4 pins ??

post #2772 of 3704

no, haven't looked for a 4 pin version yet.

post #2773 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post
 

no, haven't looked for a 4 pin version yet.

but doest such thing exist ?? that is the question ! :-)   it will save you to use a switch in the signal path

post #2774 of 3704

i see no problem in using a small switch at the begin of the signal path connecting ground to both channels. much better than using an additional adaptor cable.

post #2775 of 3704

a short status update - let's call it the modder 's diary part 01:

 

these days i am just playing around with the different components and parts

 

- how they fit

- how to solder

- if they are easy to integrate or if there are some problems

 

for example the potentiometer and the 3.5mm jacks, but also the switches have slightly thicker pins (1.3 mm instead of 1 mm), so it's better to mount and solder them with small wires intead of directly soldering them on a standard prototyping pcb with 1mm holes.

 

the lead-free solder is a nightmare, doesn't flow, higher temperature to solder, always the risk to damage parts because of the temperature, don't know if i will use the mundorf silver/gold solder or at least mix it with some lead/silver solder. to use lead-free solder with acceptable results you need nitrogen as shielding gas, but please pre-heated, even think of modifying a smd solder air gun, the air input modified with magnet valve and a compressed nitrogen tank.

 

bought some components and parts to make my own custom housings / cases for the new amps (desktop / mini), at least for the prototypes.

 

need a larger bench drill with a drill chuck that fits for drills up to 10mm diameter.

 

reading a lot about tube amplifier design, calculation and build at the moment.

 

the dc/dc step up converters i bought on ebay were only proving up to 45 volt, but wanted to get up to 60v out of them, so today after downloading and reading the data sheet of the used XL6009 circuit i modified one of them, so now i get (nearly) 60 volt, to be precise 59,7volt out of them:

 

as first step i replaced the 50v output capacitor with a larger one for 63 volt (left:unmodified - right: modified):

 

 

 

to extend the range of the adjustable output voltage i cut the direct connection between potentiometer and v+ output and reconnected it using an added 22k resistor. as the XL6009 circuit compares the output voltage to the input with the input voltage as maximum, you need a divider if the circuit has to provide an output voltage higher than the maximum input voltage, as the maximum output voltage was 45 volt before and the potentiometer to adjust this has 50kohm, the 22 kohm of the added resistor was an estimate, but fits perfectly:

 

 

not to forget - here is the prototype board for the mini amp with output transformeres, two 5672 output tubes and two df61 tubes, the final one will definetely be smaller. have to calculate the resistors and capacitors for the two tube stages before adding these parts:

 

 

also you can see top-left to bottom-left the dc/dc step down converter adjusted to 1.25 volt for the filament / heater voltage, the dc/dc step up converter for the grid and anode voltage (haven't assembled my new bias voltage mini board), and the input terminal with power switch, 3.5mm jack and potentiometer.

 

for size comparison you can see a 9volt battery block.


Edited by GermanGuy - 11/17/13 at 6:10am
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