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post #2731 of 3704

My bad.. my bad...

 

I just had a chance to look into the stack of the tubes packages and found out that I have the DF96 eventually. :eek:

It seems the long waiting time had created a negative effect on my memory. :D

 

Here they are:

 

From left to right : Philips, ???, ???, Pinnacle, Mullard, Valvo.

 

Does anybody know what are the second and third tubes?

I have to go through my ordering list to see what are those tubes.

And, yeah... there's the memory effect will take place again... :wink_face:

 

The Philips DF96 looks different with the one recommended before.

It has the green letters and the following code.

Are they the same?


Edited by Boringer - 11/12/13 at 7:46am
post #2732 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmichels View Post
 
I bought them pn Ebay from 2 different vendors. Well it was à (good) surprise when i received the Mazda. I did not expected them to be like this. And as for the Mullard, i bought them this summer and at this time he only had 2. Sorry I can't help.

 

Yeah. These kind of tubes are getting scarce now.

And I'm happy, you have them. :beerchug: 

post #2733 of 3704
So TWO sets of DF96's! Wonderful Can you see the lettering on the Valvo one? Under the DF96 or around the back of it you should see some letters. Check if it has a "D" if so that is the Hamburg factory code and if it has that then it will probably be the same as the Philips in sound as Valvo made the Philips DF96 I have.

As to the other one. Well right off it is a British Mil-Spec tube, that can be ascertained by the arrow but I need to see any other markings to find out if it is Brimar or Mullard. Looking at the style of printing it could be either.

Can you take a picture of both of these's other markings please that way we can have a go at finding out what they are. I am still not certain about the Barcelona on the stamp tube though.
post #2734 of 3704
today i ordered all missing parts for my portable mini tu-05, the parts should arrive thursday, i think next weekend will be very interesting. btw i ordered six additional small output transformers, so i can use them as input attenuators or build up to five mini tu-05!

EDIT:

in addition just ordered enough subminiature tubes for five mini SET amps!
Edited by GermanGuy - 11/12/13 at 1:51pm
post #2735 of 3704
not to forget our munich highend 2014 meeting and tube rolling party - the munich highend 2014 will be from 15.05.2014 to 18.05.2014!
post #2736 of 3704
boringer - the second one looks identical to my national df96.
post #2737 of 3704
just found on radiommuseum.org that the df96 is identical to 1f33, 1t4sf, and made a picture search on google. boringer - the third tube is a scoba df96.
post #2738 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmichels View Post



I bought them pn Ebay from 2 different vendors. Well it was à (good) surprise when i received the Mazda. I did not expected them to be like this. And as for the Mullard, i bought them this summer and at this time he only had 2. Sorry I can't help.

 



grrrrrrr :-)
post #2739 of 3704


Here are the philips df96 tubes i have, the two on the left have the number 208 on top, the four on the right are from the canadian seller ianmedium posted.
Edited by GermanGuy - 11/12/13 at 12:18pm
post #2740 of 3704
GG, I have not heard of Scoba, who made them? Looks like you got some from my Canadian seller!

I think it worth noting here and once I go through my bookmarks and find them I will put the info in the sticky on the first page of this thread.

The most important thing it seems to me is where the tubes were made rather than the name of them, this more so with European tubes. I have Philips made by Mullard in the UK and by Valvo in Germany. Finding out the factory code can save a lot of money as I have found a consistent in all the tubes more than the name is the actual factory and date they were made. Best of all is factory and date match, or date match. It is not cast in iron mind but is a good rough guide to consistency I find!


Ah, found one part, this is for Brimar and Mullard..

Military valves have different markings to commercial valves. Most have a CV number (CV = common valve) It is best explained with an example. I recently sold some E88CC or 6922 with the following markings CV2492 KB/AD ZF. Decoded this means:

CV2492 is saying this is an E88CC or 6922 or any other equivalvent - ie a high class 6DJ8 or ECC88.

K is saying this valve has been made to specification K1001 or K1006 if it had been a J it would have meant it was made to a JAN or MIL spec.

B is saying the qualification approval was given by a UK authority, if it had been a U it would be US or a D for Australia or an X for DERAD Air approval.

AD is the factory identification code in this case Brimar rochester plant. There are several pages of codes and some of those you might look out for as well respected makers of valves are D Mullards Mitcham, DA Mullard Blackburn, DB Mullard Salford, DC Mullard Whytleafe, DE Mullard Fleetwood, DF Mullard Waddon, DH Phillips France, L MOV pre 1951, Q English electric, QB Marconi, QC marconi, R Ferranti, Z MO Hammersmith, ZA MOV Gateshead, ZB MOV Perivale, ZC MOV springvale, ZD MOV Dover.

ZF is the date code which was 1968 June. . The first letter representing the year starting at A for 1945 and second the month so AA would be 1945 January, AB is 1945 February and NF 1956 June and so on with I and O not being used.

There is another system of date marking used from about 1965 onwards and that consisted of four digits, the first two being the year and the last two being the week so 6407 would be February 1964. The date code was the date the code was put on the valve so if there may be an earlier manufacturers code on the valve as well.

If you have found this useful please vote YES below as this will enable more people to see it and encourage me to write more guides on valves. If there is something incorrect please email me and tell me so i can put it right.



This is a PDF of Philips though I find so much detail confusing!


http://www.pauls-roehren.de/downloads/PhilipsCodeListAB.pdf

Hope that helps!
post #2741 of 3704
post #2742 of 3704
post #2743 of 3704

I find I with my NEC 1T4SF is much more sensitive to vibrations & noise than the stock Sylvanias that it's almost unlistenable. I may try the Telefunken I have to see how that sounds.

post #2744 of 3704
Some tubes are more sensitive than others. On most occasions Sean they settle down after 40 or 50 hours. My Marconi's are still a bit sensitive but no where near as much as when I first got them.

I hope you have better luck with the Telefunken's that I have, each one has been a duffer sadly though I have loved the sound they make! I will keep an eye out for you.
post #2745 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by ianmedium View Post

Some tubes are more sensitive than others. On most occasions Sean they settle down after 40 or 50 hours. My Marconi's are still a bit sensitive but no where near as much as when I first got them.

I hope you have better luck with the Telefunken's that I have, each one has been a duffer sadly though I have loved the sound they make! I will keep an eye out for you.

 

My Telefunkens have been sitting cold and I still have 1xFujitsu Ten (which is pretty much useless 'cos even if I find another one the chances of them matching will take a miracle - still doesn't stop me from trying to find another though :p).

 

GG's comment about the DF96 is the same as the 1T4SF intrigues me though. My understanding according to the tube sales chaps here in Tokyo is the 1T4SF has either 1/2 or 2x the coil winds which makes the battery drain slower (I'm guessing it means 1/2 then). I didn't even know tubes had coils in them...I thought they were just plates :D. More reasons to read up on all this.

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