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Analog Squared Paper Discussion Thread. - Page 140

post #2086 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJG888 View Post



I know you've already bought it, but there are alternatives which offer 192KHz capability (e.g. iBasso D7)...



There is an alternative (as posted before) - the Meridian Explorer, capable of 24Bit, 192 KHz, - BUT - needs a driver for example for Windows, so not universal, i got the HRT microstreamer for 163 Euros, The Meridian Explorer is 299 Euros, much larger, three time the size / volume.......



And in several reviews the HRT was the better sounding device, the description of the sonic signature exactly fits my wishes, due to shape and connectors it can be provided as Add-On and can also be removed, housing is strictly rectangular, out of aluminium and two screws on the back so can be mounted by just using two slightly longer screws and .. it is really small.



so much more requirements needed to be fullfilled than just sample rate for an easy integration.



And as the colorfly loves WAV but hates FLAC i have decided not to use 192Khz.



Just to remember this device will be integrated into my TU-05 as dac section !


Edited by GermanGuy - 9/10/13 at 12:17pm
post #2087 of 3704
I will admit that my recently-acquired DX50 is as buggy as an entomologist's terrarium...
post #2088 of 3704
See, thats the problem I have with Ibasso. I am sure they sound great but you would think they would take the experience they had with the DX100 and release something right from the get go!
post #2089 of 3704
At least the D7 doesn't rely on firmware...

The DX50 is frustrating. Brilliance hampered by idiocy.
post #2090 of 3704
GG, tell me, when you drilled the side of your TU-05 to make the hole for thé big jack. Was it easy to drill aluminium or... Very hard steel ?

I am anxious How to make a nice & clean big hole !
post #2091 of 3704
aluminium is not that hard and the softest metal to drill. i made the hole as written on page 115 of this thread.

today i have the tools and drills to make life easier:

first of all you should use a centre punch to exactly mark the center of the hole and also prevent the drill from moving when you drill the first small center hole:



first of all i would drill a 3mm hole with a 3mm metal drill, then expand it to 8mm with an 8mm metall drill and then using a reaner (german: Reibahle) or this driil here





to expand the hole to the needed diameter.

you should tape the whole amp with tape before to avoid scratches in the paint / surface.
Edited by GermanGuy - 9/10/13 at 11:57am
post #2092 of 3704

bmichels - the most important thing is the correct positioning of the center, the distance between my rear neutrik jack and the electronic parts soldered under the tubes is just 1mm !!!!!


Edited by GermanGuy - 9/10/13 at 1:56pm
post #2093 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by GermanGuy View Post


first of all you should use a centre punch to exactly mark the center of the hole...

 

I am happy to hear that it is aluminium... :-)

 

But... you says "you should use a centre punch to exactly mark the center of the hole " !

 

->  Did'n you used the already existing small hole of the charging socket to start the BIG hole ? 

post #2094 of 3704
You guys are great! the extent of my DIY was changing back to the Lorenz tubes today! Oh and I purchased some Audioquest Evergreen interconnect on a whim and must say I prefer it over the Cardas and Kimber!
post #2095 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmichels View Post
 

 

I am happy to hear that it is aluminium... :-)

 

But... you says "you should use a centre punch to exactly mark the center of the hole " !

 

->  Did'n you used the already existing small hole of the charging socket to start the BIG hole ? 

i did not as i had to drill a lot of small holes as posted on page 115, at that time i had not the reaner drill i have now.


Edited by GermanGuy - 9/10/13 at 1:54pm
post #2096 of 3704

Look what arrived today....  I really love the look of those Mullard DF91 with the little holes ! :D

 

I don't know if, with the Philips,  they will sound as good as the DF97, but... they look much nicer :-)

 

 

 

Now I am waiting for 3 MAZDA 1T4 and 4... PHILCO 1S4 that I finally found (Thanks to GG)  

 

and I believe I will then have all the "top" tubes I may need.... for a while.


Edited by bmichels - 9/10/13 at 2:44pm
post #2097 of 3704
Oh man, where did you get the Mullards with the holes? i have wanted a set for ages!
post #2098 of 3704

I got the Mullard DF91 with holes from Derek from " electronics4all2013 ", an eBay vendor.  

 

( I also got some Mullard DF96 from him, but don(t know if they will be very usefull.)

 

  

 

 

 

For information, here is the current inventory of radio-antigua ( another eBay's vendor) for the tubes that we use : 

 


1S4 - DL91

48 ORION N/N ( nos/nib )
4 ULTRON N/N
9 KENRAD NOS
5 SYLVANIA NOS
2 CROSLEY NOS
7 RCA NOS



3S4 - DL92

589 ORION N/N
1 MAZDA N/N
1 MINIWATT N/N
1 BELVU N/N
1 GBC N/N
1 MINIW DARIO N/N
1 ITS NOS
1 KENRAD JAN N/N
1 SYLVANIA JAN N/N
1 GE JAN N/N


1T4 - DF91

65 PHILIPS MINIW
8 VALVO N/N
2 PHILIPS N/N
1 ULTRON N/N
17 TFK N/N
20 TFK NOS
1 RAYTHEON N/N
15 RCA JRC N/N
6 HYTRON JHY N/N
9 SIN MARCA
1 RADIONETTE NOS
3 GE NOS
1 COSSOR NOS
2 MINIWAT NOS
1 VALVO NOS
10 PHILIPS CV785 EN ROLLITO
2 MULLARD NOS
 

- radio-antigua

Edited by bmichels - 9/10/13 at 2:43pm
post #2099 of 3704

bmichels - so how do the rft df97's sound?


Edited by GermanGuy - 9/10/13 at 3:14pm
post #2100 of 3704
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmichels View Post
 

Look what arrived today....  I really love the look of those Mullard DF91 with the little holes ! :D

 

I don't know if, with the Philips,  they will sound as good as the DF97, but... they look much nicer :-)

 

 

they are absolutely great looking!

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