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I want to build my first amp, thinking O2, but have a question about fitting into a different... - Page 2

post #16 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by cfcubed View Post

Yes glue/epoxy should not have much if any place in builds. Hard to imagine cases where you'd not regret using it, eg replacing/upgrading parts + they're apt to break loose. Think I've only ever used a touch to secure LEDs to front panels & only the rare case where I didn't have an LED mount handy & the hole was not drilled properly for a tight press fit.

This. Any glue should be a last resort if no better solutions can be found...

...which I thought was the case for my O2 build.....

 

I usually use hot glue for LEDs.

post #17 of 32

If in doubt, ask yourself, "What would MACGYVER do?"

 

You started to show some promise Boris, but you change of heart has left me dissapoint.

 

 

As for the OP, I don't see anything wrong with a sideways mount for the O2, as long as the wiring is routed well (as already mentioned). Power wiring, input wiring, and output wiring should all be kept separate, and away from the other sections of pcb.

How much room will there be around the pcb in your case?

 

I'm considering a sideways mount for my O2, also, in an existing case - if i actually get around to building it, lol. (its been sitting there doing nothing for about a year already)

post #18 of 32

You actually used epoxy resin to mount the PCB to the enclosure? *cries*

 

One would have to torture me to do such a thing. PCB have feelings too you know, you should respect them! frown.gif

 

I would have used hot glue as a temporary solution. Double faced tape, the type with foam in between the sticky layers, is also a better solution. At least these can be unglued without damaging the board.

 

I also contemplated the idea of using a O2 board in a desktop enclosure, with twisted pairs to stuff mounted on the panels. I'm just not a fan of the stock enclosure, with everything on the front panel. Good to know the alternative is approved by the designer.

 

To push this idea to the next level, mounting both an ODAC and an O2 inside the same desktop enclosure seems even more interesting. Anyone did it yet?

post #19 of 32
Quote:
You started to show some promise Boris, but you change of heart has left me dissapoint.

Not sure what you meant by that.

Quote:
You actually used epoxy resin to mount the PCB to the enclosure? *cries* One would have to torture me to do such a thing. PCB have feelings too you know, you should respect them!

What would you have done if you didn't know there were mounting holes?

It was my last resort. (Hot glue didn't work.)

post #20 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by b1o2r3i4s5 View Post

Not sure what you meant by that.

Don't worry, It was an attempt at humour, I did not mean it literally. wink_face.gif

post #21 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by DingoSmuggler View Post

Don't worry, It was an attempt at humour, I did not mean it literally. wink_face.gif

some of these Americans dont really get the dry Aussie humor biggrin.gif

as for hotglue mounting, perfectly acceptable, used by many commercial companies for providing strain relief on large reservoir caps. I would never use epoxy though …

I would worry a bit myself about mounting the volume pot too remotely, given its not at the circuit input like most amps, but rather in the feedback loop of the amp VAS; this could cause problems if you arent careful with routing. definitely dont do something like twist the wire going to the pot with the same signal coming back to the PCB, try to twist each signal with its own ground
post #22 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by qusp View Post

some of these Americans dont really get the dry Aussie humor biggrin.gif
as for hotglue mounting, perfectly acceptable, used by many commercial companies for providing strain relief on large reservoir caps. I would never use epoxy though …
I would worry a bit myself about mounting the volume pot too remotely, given its not at the circuit input like most amps, but rather in the feedback loop of the amp VAS; this could cause problems if you arent careful with routing. definitely dont do something like twist the wire going to the pot with the same signal coming back to the PCB, try to twist each signal with its own ground

I'm Chinese....... (Sort of)

 

I tried hot glue, but it doesn't stick very well on metal surfaces.

So I've had to resort to epoxy. (Yeah, I feel really bad about it now that I found out the PCB had mounting holes.....)

post #23 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by b1o2r3i4s5 View Post

I'm Chinese....... (Sort of)

I tried hot glue, but it doesn't stick very well on metal surfaces.
So I've had to resort to epoxy. (Yeah, I feel really bad about it now that I found out the PCB had mounting holes.....)

ahh IC ...same same =)

but I wont generalize, was just having a bit of a giggle with my compatriot because I know the feeling and to compound it, forums arent the best place to exercise humor unless its obvious, or people know you well, I dont mean anything by it.

about the glue though, I dont know what possessed you tbh mate, nothing would make me stick a PCB down with epoxy mounting holes or not, even plasticine would work temporarily, doesnt look portable so why did it need to be so solid and immediate? oh well it'll be a pain but I reckon you'll still be able to get it off if you have to, just heat the bottom of the case from underneath with a hot air tool and it should weaken the epoxy bond enough to pry it off.
post #24 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by KimLaroux View Post

You actually used epoxy resin to mount the PCB to the enclosure? *cries*

 

One would have to torture me to do such a thing. PCB have feelings too you know, you should respect them! frown.gif

 

I would have used hot glue as a temporary solution. Double faced tape, the type with foam in between the sticky layers, is also a better solution. At least these can be unglued without damaging the board.

 

I also contemplated the idea of using a O2 board in a desktop enclosure, with twisted pairs to stuff mounted on the panels. I'm just not a fan of the stock enclosure, with everything on the front panel. Good to know the alternative is approved by the designer.

 

To push this idea to the next level, mounting both an ODAC and an O2 inside the same desktop enclosure seems even more interesting. Anyone did it yet?


I'm planning to do both the O2 and ODAC in a desktop enclosure.  I have no idea of the layout yet as I'm still waiting on parts.  I'll be making the enclosure out of wood, so layout should be pretty flexible.  If you look at the first page, there are pictures of an O2 with panel mounted components. 

post #25 of 32

I cased mine up in the slightly taller Box enclosure (B3-080BK) to keep the slide-in convenience, and it was a real pain.  I routed my cables away from the power supply section the best I could, but space was so limited, I couldn't really do much.  I think a joint broke during cramming and case up as only one channel was coming in properly.  So today is trouble shooting day!  But here is the outside, at least:  

 

 

 

 

 

I used a drill press to do the plates and you can see where the power hole is a little off.  Still fits fine since I used a bigger hole.  I also was going to have the LED on the back hence the tiny hole in the middle, but decided to move it to the front.  I also bought an ODAC that was cased up in the B2-080 for a nice little stack.  But if I did it all over again, I would get a larger case with a removeable top, and put everything all into one with a switch.  Have the signal from the ODAC go to my speakers when a headphone is not plugged in.  

post #26 of 32

FraGGleR:  Where did you get your volume knob?  Is that the Digikey option?

post #27 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crispy808 View Post

FraGGleR:  Where did you get your volume knob?  Is that the Digikey option?

 

Got it from Alliedelec.com along with the Box enclosure.  It's a pretty decent knob.  Matte finish, heavy.  Kilo International makes it and there are a number of different styles and sizes to choose from.

post #28 of 32

That's a nice looking amp indeed, b1o2r3i4s5!. More or less what I'm after, actually.

 

<OT>

I I have no previous experience in building amps and right now I'd just want to use an amp, not learn how to build one (that part might come later).

I'm aware that there are people who build amps on request (since builds appear on the sales forum from time to time).. but what's the proper etiquette for finding people who might be willing to build one? Lurking and figuring out who they are, then contacting them directly? The commercial O2 designs aren't really suitable for my intended use as such.

</OT>


Edited by RubberDuk - 12/5/12 at 7:03am
post #29 of 32

posted in the wrong thread, please delete this post


Edited by b1o2r3i4s5 - 12/5/12 at 7:21am
post #30 of 32

To FraGGleR:  How did you wire the 1/4" headphone jack to P2?  I know the first two pads closest to the edge are ground, but of the remaining two pads, which correspond to left and right?  Thanks.

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