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I want to build my first amp, thinking O2, but have a question about fitting into a different...

post #1 of 32
Thread Starter 

I was looking at the PCB for the Objective2 and the front of the board is on the long side. I was thinking about using my dead Little Dot 1+ as the case for this, but the width of the case would make the short side of the board the front. Otherwise the board will fit in the case. My question is, can the components that would be located on the front, be connected "remotely"? Could the board be mounted in the case and the output and volume pot. be connected to the board via wires rather than attached directly to the board? Same with the input, allowing that to be located on the rear of the amp rather than the front?

post #2 of 32

The O2 engineer was very particular about layout.  There is some risk that experimentation might not give satisfactory results. So you might be better off trying your ideas with a simpler package.

 

That said, I used the O2 BOM to fix the "Edifier" which has a nice little case but a crappy circuit.  I discarded the crappy circuit and soldered some of the O2 main circuit to a protoboard which I crammed inside. It's not pretty when the case is open but it sounds great.  I like the O2 design.

 

It's always better to use a proper circuit board but I don't mind hacking.
 

post #3 of 32

While he was particular about layout, he has said that it is fine to wire something like the input jack and the pentiometer using twisted pairs as long as you keep them away from the power circuit.  I will be doing that with mine.

post #4 of 32
Thread Starter 

Yeah, I thought about trying with a cMoy as well...trying it with that first and go from there. I guess the good thing is, it would be reversible if it doesn't work. Just unsolder the wires and attach the components as they should be.

post #5 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by FraGGleR View Post

While he was particular about layout, he has said that it is fine to wire something like the input jack and the pentiometer using twisted pairs as long as you keep them away from the power circuit.  I will be doing that with mine.


How is this going?  This is exactly what I'm planning with my O2 build. 

post #6 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crispy808 View Post


How is this going?  This is exactly what I'm planning with my O2 build. 

 

Working on it today :)  I have drilled the holes in my backplate which will have the power jack, power button, RCA in, and gain switch.  Still figuring out exactly where to put the holes for the 1/4" and volume right now on the front plate.  Then down to the drill press!

 

Even with the "larger" case, this is still tiny and wiring is going to be a bit of a pain since this is a slide in enclosure instead of open top.  Careful planning is the key so that the wires are routed properly.

post #7 of 32

A desktop Obj2 that I built wink.gif

 

  


Edited by akiroz - 10/13/12 at 8:34pm
post #8 of 32

Very nice!  I am kind of wishing I went with a bigger case at this point, but at the time of ordering, I still wanted a really compact system and went with the enclosure that the board could still slide into, but was taller.

 

I had my plates drilled nicely and ready to start wiring today, but I slipped with some pliers and gouged paint off the front panel.  Luckily, I anticipated doing something like that and have a spare I can try again tomorrow with.

post #9 of 32

b1o2r3i4s5: Real professional looking build.  How is the board attached to the case?  It kinda looks like there's glue on one corner.

 

FraGGIeR:  I don't have my parts yet, so I was curious how the input jack, potentiometer and LED could be attached to the opposite panel if they're not attached to the PCB.  How are you planning to secure these parts? 

post #10 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crispy808 View Post

b1o2r3i4s5: Real professional looking build.  How is the board attached to the case?  It kinda looks like there's glue on one corner.

 

FraGGIeR:  I don't have my parts yet, so I was curious how the input jack, potentiometer and LED could be attached to the opposite panel if they're not attached to the PCB.  How are you planning to secure these parts? 

Plastic stand-offs + Epoxy resin.

It's really annoying how the O2 board doesn't have mounting holes.

EDIT: OMG!! IT DOES HAVE MOUNTING HOLES!! WHAT HAVE I DONE???

How did I not realize until now?!?!?!?!


Edited by akiroz - 10/14/12 at 2:11am
post #11 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by b1o2r3i4s5 View Post

Plastic stand-offs + Epoxy resin.

It's really annoying how the O2 board doesn't have mounting holes.

EDIT: OMG!! IT DOES HAVE MOUNTING HOLES!! WHAT HAVE I DONE???

How did I not realize until now?!?!?!?!

 


Thanks.  Simple enough. 

 

Did you do something you shouldn't have?

post #12 of 32

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crispy808 View Post


Thanks.  Simple enough. 

 

Did you do something you shouldn't have?

if i knew there were mounting holes, i wouldn't have to glue the board in place....

Glue isn't reversible while screws are.

post #13 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by b1o2r3i4s5 View Post

Plastic stand-offs + Epoxy resin.

It's really annoying how the O2 board doesn't have mounting holes.

EDIT: OMG!! IT DOES HAVE MOUNTING HOLES!! WHAT HAVE I DONE???

How did I not realize until now?!?!?!?!

 

I think those were meant as conduits for wires, as the whole thing was designed to be a slide-in solution.  But I think I also read that they can be used as stand-off mounting holes in a pinch.

 

To Crispy 808, I am using panel mounted hardware suggested by NwAvGuy in the latest BOM.   Then using some 26awg silver plated wire in teflon to wire everything to the board.  I scratched one of my faceplates yesterday so had to redo it this morning.  I should be able to post pictures later today of what I am doing.

post #14 of 32
Yes glue/epoxy should not have much if any place in builds. Hard to imagine cases where you'd not regret using it, eg replacing/upgrading parts + they're apt to break loose. Think I've only ever used a touch to secure LEDs to front panels & only the rare case where I didn't have an LED mount handy & the hole was not drilled properly for a tight press fit.
post #15 of 32
Quote:
I think those were meant as conduits for wires, as the whole thing was designed to be a slide-in solution. But I think I also read that they can be used as stand-off mounting holes in a pinch.

I checked the O2 PCB layout earlier.

There are 3 big holes and they're electrically isolated from the circuit, so I'm quite certain they're for mounting.

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