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T-Peos H-100 Hybrid IEM Appreciation Thread - Page 82

post #1216 of 1259

I just realized that besides the carabiner, the airline adaptor is also missing from the package. What should I do?

post #1217 of 1259

I noticed that some of the H-100's have rings around the metal casing before the plug as in the first image and others have a knurled casing. Does anyone know the reason for the difference? Are both versions legitimate? 

 

ca49de69_P1020136.jpeg

 

903.jpg

post #1218 of 1259
Quote:
Originally Posted by tigha45 View Post
 

I noticed that some of the H-100's have rings around the metal casing before the plug as in the first image and others have a knurled casing. Does anyone know the reason for the difference? Are both versions legitimate? 

 

ca49de69_P1020136.jpeg

 

903.jpg

 

 

Yes, they're both legitimate. It's just the H-100''s have different styles/variants of designs.

post #1219 of 1259

Ya, the H-100KR version is knurled, the H-100RR version (that I have) is not.

post #1220 of 1259

Hi! Has anyone dissasembled / repaired the plug of H-100? Or maybe there is a scheme how the wires are connected to the plug in our model? My cable is broken and I decided to change the plug to better Neutric one, but can't guess where to connect each part of the wire. There are 5 different wires inside the cable and I can't remember how they were soldered to the original 3,5 mm plug. Seems there is a balanced sceme, and I've read some forums / articles in the web adout balanced type of connection, but unfortunately I'm not so good in the technical stuff to understand them...

post #1221 of 1259

Hi, How did you break your cables? I'm worried about the wiring connected to the housing.

post #1222 of 1259
Quote:
Originally Posted by as1is View Post
 

Hi! Has anyone dissasembled / repaired the plug of H-100? Or maybe there is a scheme how the wires are connected to the plug in our model? My cable is broken and I decided to change the plug to better Neutric one, but can't guess where to connect each part of the wire. There are 5 different wires inside the cable and I can't remember how they were soldered to the original 3,5 mm plug. Seems there is a balanced sceme, and I've read some forums / articles in the web adout balanced type of connection, but unfortunately I'm not so good in the technical stuff to understand them...

do you own a cheap multimeter so you can check for each wires connection to the original plug?.

 

 I hope you kept the stock tip.

post #1223 of 1259

 

first of all, sorry for my poor English...

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by zamorin View Post
 

Hi, How did you break your cables? I'm worried about the wiring connected to the housing.

the cable broke in the place where 3.5 mm plug finishes and the wire in cloth begins. the rubber on the connector is quite tough and actually do not move, the metal wires inside the cable just broke down decause of constant frictions in one place. I used to carry the source player in the pocket, the player is Hifiman 601 - quite heavy one.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post
 

do you own a cheap multimeter so you can check for each wires connection to the original plug?.

 

 I hope you kept the stock tip.

 

yes, the tip itself is kept. the trouble is that I personally did not disassemble the plug, I asked a friend to do this as he is far more keen is soldering... unfortunately, he knows nothing in accoustics and sound :( there were only three of the wires soldered to the original tip, two of them were not connected (broken because of frictions). because of this he thought these two wires are some protection ones and should not be connected to the plug. so he just removed the broken parts and not I don't know where this two were connected... unfortunately, even if I had a multimeter, I can't use it as I don't know what it is and how it operates :)

post #1224 of 1259

Are the wires colour coded at all?  If there are two the same colour they're probably the grounds.  Usually red would be the right side and left is the other colour (I've seen white, blue and green but who knows what they used!) not sure on the 5th wire though, is it a shield?  If so connect it to ground on the plug.

 

If you have a multimeter all you need to do find connectivity mode is touch the two probes and cycle through the modes until it beeps (most do).  Then you can touch a wire to each probe and it will beep when you've got a connection (through the driver)

 

If there are no helpful colours and you have no multimeter probably the best way is to set some music playing quietly (make sure it's not got gaps or you might get a connection and not know it) plug the new jack in and listen to them.  Connect one wire to ground then touch the other wires in turn to the left or right contact until you get sound then remember that pair and repeat with another wire as ground.

 

Once you have the left and right pairs you can follow this site to test the polarity - headphones are just little speakers :happy_face1:

post #1225 of 1259

How do you guys clean the nozzle of the H-100 when they are so tiny? Can the top part (filter?) be removed for cleaning? Thanks.

post #1226 of 1259
Quote:
Originally Posted by zamorin View Post
 

How do you guys clean the nozzle of the H-100 when they are so tiny? Can the top part (filter?) be removed for cleaning? Thanks.

 

Haha was trying to figure that out as well. Looks like the top metal-like part can't be removed. A bit of dust-off lol?

post #1227 of 1259

I'm just afraid I'll get the debris deeper inside

post #1228 of 1259
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonyoo View Post
 

 

Haha was trying to figure that out as well. Looks like the top metal-like part can't be removed. A bit of dust-off lol?

 

I put a tea bag on the nozzle and the metal mesh is not clogged with earwax

post #1229 of 1259
Quote:
Originally Posted by zamorin View Post
 

How do you guys clean the nozzle of the H-100 when they are so tiny? Can the top part (filter?) be removed for cleaning? Thanks.

Have not had to yet since i use the Comply Foam tips ( TX series ) that have the built-in waxguard  protective layer in them over the hole. That might be an option, foams will also help tame them somewhat.  The teabag material thing would work also ( heck get some silk teabag material ), even light gauze or shear fabric  or is that spelled Sheer?  Use it for driver covers in mods from time to time.. 

 

Let us know what you manage to use for the cleaning.


Edited by nick n - 10/1/13 at 6:48pm
post #1230 of 1259

I got a cheap iem, I think I'll use it's filter or probably I'll get the TX. I also stuck a needle inside the opening but it seems to be clean. Do you glue the teabag on? Thanks.

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