And you thought Audioengine A2 was good, LOL: Here's my Near-Field MONSTER desktop rig for less... - Page 2

This looks like an awesome setup! Will have to try putting one together someday.

This info is linked from the PSW10 page:

The specs for your sub only specify a low pass filter crossover.  A variable low pass filter crossover can only cut off the top of the audio signal--it "passes" the low end only. This is why Polk is saying to try the crossover at the "lowest frequency that your main speakers are capable of producing." The idea is to make the sub rolloff at the top where the speakers naturally are rolling off on the low end so you get that smooth bass transition. If you set the crossover higher than that, then it can double bass--both the sub and the speakers are producing a lot of some of the bass frequencies. 

High pass filters built into subs that would simultaneously cut the low end from the signal going to the speakers are typically pretty rare these days (people with HT setups don't need it because of active bass management on on AV receivers) and are only found in much more expensive subs.  And when they have that feature, they state it. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by StratocasterMan 

Okay, but I don't get it. This sub is working fantastically for me. I don't need to cut-off any high frequencies from my bookshelf speakers, because after all, they can handle the high frequencies. I only need to cut-off low frequencies from my bookshelf speakers, because those are the frequencies they can't handle. That is exactly what my subwoofer is doing for me. 

Of course the subwoofer crossover is not cutting off the high frequencies. That's not how the subwoofer and the variable low pass filter crossover works. A low pass filter only affects the signal going to the subwoofer. The speakers get the same signal regardless of where you set the crossover on the sub. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by StratocasterMan 

I'm wondering if you've had more experience reading about subs than actually dialing them into an environment, because it's really not as complicated as you make it seem. It's like anything else in audio. You can get get carried away with technicalities that don't make the difference in sound. The PSW10 is more-than-enough subwoofer in this desktop environment. If fact, it kills in the desktop environment! Don't you think a 10" powered sub under-the-desk is enough for laptop use?

 

http://reviews.cnet.com/subwoofers/polk-audio-psw10-black/4505-11312_7-31127154.html

I'm not saying it's not enough subwoofer for your setup. Just wanted to clarify here that the crossover is not working the way that you think it is, mainly so no else reading this misunderstands. If it sounds good, don't worry about.

And yes. See my user profile for all the subs I have (I also have a 10" car audio sub with separate amp). I participate a lot in the AVS subwoofer forum (more so than here on head-fi). Since you seem new to subwoofers, come join us if you want to learn more 

This is my current setup but I use the Dayton Sub 1200 and yeah the Dayton B652 are great budget speakers that really come alive when paired with a properly configured sub to fill in the low end these can't audibly reproduce.  They can do all genre's of music justice and great for gaming perfect for near field use at a computer.  I have to disagree with smaller subs being better for music then larger sub though.  A properly designed 12" sub will sound just as good for music if not better as any similarly priced 8" or 10" sub the whole bigger subs being "slower" and worse for music is myth. 

"If a cone can produce enough output at a given frequency then it’s moving as fast as it has to to reproduce that note. Large drivers are simply not required to move as quick as smaller ones.  If anything, smaller cones will need to move further than larger cones to move the required amount of air which requires more time. It could be said then that large drivers with massive displacements require the least amount of cone movement in the time required.  The funny thing is that because smaller drivers (all things being equal) are required to move further at any given time interval to move the required amount of air it could be said that they are required to move “faster”. How ironic"

Quote:

Originally Posted by StratocasterMan 

Okay, but I don't get it. This sub is working fantastically for me. I don't need to cut-off any high frequencies from my bookshelf speakers, because after all, they can handle the high frequencies. I only need to cut-off low frequencies from my bookshelf speakers, because those are the frequencies they can't handle. That is exactly what my subwoofer is doing for me. 

He's right your sub isn't cutting anything out your speakers are still getting the full frequency audio signal just go to this site and run a 30hz signal at a higher volume and take of your speakers covers and you can feel the Dayton B652 woofers moving attempting to reproduce the signal.

http://onlinetonegenerator.com/

Nothing wrong with your setup it fine you've properly blended the sub properly so it fills in where the Dayton B652 starts to roll off and the bass sounds like coming from the 2 speakers as it should but the speakers and amp are still being burdened with low frequency sound.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJHeadshot 

 A properly designed 12" sub will sound just as good for music if not better as any similarly priced 8" or 10" sub the whole bigger subs being "slower" and worse for music is myth. 

Yep. My dream sub is the Seaton Submersive HP with dual 15" drivers, and it is considered to be one of the best SQ subs money can buy for $2500.  

That being said, I suspect the best SQ value at a given price point will often be a smaller driver sub. Given say a 12" and a 15" driver in the same speaker line (same technology, same SQ), the larger driver is more expensive to make and requires a bigger enclosure (also adding slightly to the costs). So the Rythmik F12, which is considered one of the best subs one can buy for music for it's price, is on par in SQ with it's big brother the F15, yet cost less--it's cheaper to make. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJHeadshot 

He's right your sub isn't cutting anything out your speakers are still getting the full frequency audio signal just go to this site and run a 30hz signal at a higher volume and take of your speakers covers and you can feel the Dayton B652 woofers moving attempting to reproduce the signal.

The Dayton's are rated 70Hz to 22kHz.  Might not feel anything at 30hz. If they have any response that low, it will be next to nothing. I'd try 60hz when the crossover on your sub is set to 100hz. Just turn the gain (volume) down on the sub all the way before running the test signal.