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HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project - Page 248

post #3706 of 3716
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

Thanks for the quick reply.  Understood re: a voltage divider for the AKGs.  Sounds like a good DIY project.  For the selector, initially I was looking for a manual switch, but one with banana plugs.  The best I found was a DIY job on another forum, so that might be fun to build.  Until then, swapping plugs is no big deal.

 

I'm inclined to think it would make an excellent DIY project.

 

If you're doing it yourself, you can make a nice little box with bananas in and out, and multiple 1/4" outputs, including one with a voltage divider and one without.

 

Also note that all of our amps have protection circuitry that can be a bit fussy if you switch speakers with the power on - it tends to see a switch flip as a loose connection. (It won't hurt anything if the protection trips, but you'll have to turn it off and on again to reset it.)

post #3707 of 3716
I run my Q701 right from the speaker taps. I took the longer of the two cords that came with mine, cut it down a little shorter and put banana plugs on it. There is a very slight hiss, but the fan from my laptop is still louder than the hiss, so it's irrelevant.
post #3708 of 3716

Fusion Flex + HE-560s in action

 

 

 

 

 

It's a great amp, and the Lyr as a preamp seems well-suited (I've only run one pair with it thus far: 1964 Hamburg 'A' frame E88CCs, labeled for "Valvo").  The HE-560s eat up the power, and gain staging with the Lyr in the chain is interesting and fun.  How much tube, how much Emotiva... still experimenting.

 

If you've got smallish speakers to drive, like the Polk Audio RTi A1s pictured, and some power-hungry cans, but not gobs of cash, I definitely recommend either of the Emotiva Flex amps.  I can't compare the Fusion Flex to the mini-X, but if you need the extra input and other differences, the FF is a great buy.  I'm particularly impressed with the volume control; very smooth.  My three sources + the Schiit SYS mate up nicely with the FF's two inputs.  If I used my turntable regularly, I'd be looking for another SYS, or begging Schiit for a 3 or 4 IN version.

 

Tip o' the hat to @Guidostrunk for piquing my interest in the Emotiva.

post #3709 of 3716

i need some help... i had a cable xlr to connect to a speakers amp hitachi sr 904.... The 4 braids at the end  are wriiten right and left and written Eg and GS what that means?  where is the positive and negative ....That is the back of my amp...thanks        L-js L-eg R-js R-eg  how do i connect that ?

post #3710 of 3716
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard51 View Post
 

i need some help... i had a cable xlr to connect to a speakers amp hitachi sr 904.... The 4 braids at the end  are wriiten right and left and written Eg and GS what that means?  where is the positive and negative ....That is the back of my amp...thanks        L-js L-eg R-js R-eg  how do i connect that ?

 

You should ask a friend who knows how to use a multimeter to help you.  That, or get an inexpensive DMM (Digital Multimeter) and learn to use it.

 

You need to figure out which connections on the XLR are for L, R and Ground, then use the DMM to figure out which ends (that plug into the amp) they correspond to.  Be sure to make a note on the amp end of the cable, so you can keep track.  A piece of masking tape big enough to write on is generally a good method.

post #3711 of 3716

i want to connect the 4 braids marked R-eg L-eg R-jsL-js on the speakers out of this amp.... its not indicated ground on the speakers outs only A-or B  positive  negative and right  and left....

post #3712 of 3716
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard51 View Post
 

i want to connect the 4 braids marked R-eg L-eg R-jsL-js on the speakers out of this amp.... its not indicated ground on the speakers outs only A-or B  positive  negative and right  and left....

That's what ThurstonX was referring to.  You need to check out your XLR to Speaker Tap cable to decipher what "R-eg, L-eg" etc. actually means.

 

What it will end up translating to is you will have an Right Positive, Right Negative, Left Positive and Left Negative.  Label those ends with tape as he mentions.

 

From there, you simply connect them to your amp.  The A and B on your amp allow you to connect two different sets of speakers to your amp.  Just pick the "A" one.

 

Connect the Right Positive to the R+, Right Negative to R-, Left Positive to L+ and Left Negative to L- (all on A).

 

But you first need to figure out what each of those are and you need a DMM to do it

post #3713 of 3716

thanks for your time... if i try without multimeter by chance...is there a danger ?  if i put the negative in the positive it will damage the headphone or the amp ...?

post #3714 of 3716
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard51 View Post
 

thanks for your time... if i try without multimeter by chance...is there a danger ?  if i put the negative in the positive it will damage the headphone or the amp ...?

 

IF you knew which two wires that attach to the amp are negative, then you could do a simple test with the other two (positive) wires.  That test would require some song, piece of music or audio recording where you know that one part plays only in, for example, the left channel.  If you know of such a recording, you'd simply have to play the relevant part to determine whether or not you've connected the two positive wires correctly.

 

I'm not really sure what the noticeable problem would be if you connected the negatives to the positive terminals, and vice versa (and, of course, you could end up with one pair connected correctly, while the other pair is reversed).  Maybe it has something to do with the signal(s) being out of phase.  Maybe something worse would happen.  That's why I stress that my test example would really only work if you already know which are the negatives.

post #3715 of 3716
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard51 View Post
 

thanks for your time... if i try without multimeter by chance...is there a danger ?  if i put the negative in the positive it will damage the headphone or the amp ...?

XLR cable should use standard pinout, i.e. pin 1 L+, pin 2 L-, pin 3 R+ and pin 4 R-.. You will be able to identify the positive and negative without MM if (1) the 4 braids is easily differentiate with color? (2) untighten and remove the back cover of XLR connector and match the pin 1-4 and the color of 4 braids

post #3716 of 3716
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard51 View Post
 

thanks for your time... if i try without multimeter by chance...is there a danger ?  if i put the negative in the positive it will damage the headphone or the amp ...?


Dude, check out my bud!  He made a video!

 



I have no idea who this guy is, but this post demonstrates my awesome googlefu! :ph34r: 

Try out your own google powers.  You might find some helpful info.
 

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