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HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project - Page 241

post #3601 of 3613
Quote:
Originally Posted by daerron View Post
 

How does the Ember compare to the Emotiva? Was a big fan of the Sunrise 2 with the HE-500, but just lacked a little bit of grunt, but otherwise had very good synergy together.

First off: I don't know if I could reliably tell one from the other, if blinded.

 

Sighted comparisons...Beware of Loosey Audiophile Terms:

 

Ember has plenty of power for orthos and lots of spare headroom. It edges out the a-100 on clarity or definition, for lack of a better term. Very smooth with no grain. I like it better than a-100 with both types of headphones. I think Ember digs deeper with better bass extension, quality, texture, and speed. Ember sounds better than a-100 with HD-800 which sounded a bit hot out of the a-100. I found myself wincing and reaching for the volume pot due to discomfort in the upper register on some cuts. I have a NOS Telefunken E88CC tube in Ember - my favorite tube. It's very pricey but there are other tubes available for little money ($15 to $20) that sound almost as good. The Russian tubes come to mind.

 

Emotiva a-100, modified, also has power to spare. It's performance was generally satisfying with both types of headphones. It offered a bit less resolution than Ember but this was with sighted comparisons. I think I could tell them apart in the "clarity or lack of grain" department, though.

 

Emotiva a-100 is plug and play...set it and forget it.

 

Ember offers tone shaping options by rolling tubes. While tube rolling is fun, it's time consuming and costs more initially and in the long run than the solid state Emotiva. 

 

With all this in mind, my personal preference is Ember for its sound quality, tuning capability, power, clarity, small form factor, and its cool color glow. Yeah, I'm a sucker for the changeable LED colors. The deep purple glow in a darkened room somehow adds an extra layer of pleasure to my listening experience. But, hey, this is psychoacoustics...if it sounds better, it Does!

 

If cost is a factor, and I assume it is at this mid-fi level, I would buy the a-100, modify it with robrob's design, stick to planars (my preference), and "Be happy...don't worry ;-)
 

If I wanted  better clarity, tone shaping options, and multi-sensory experience I'd pay just a little bit more and get the Ember..... and never look back.

post #3602 of 3613
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaemonSire View Post
 

That's great, thanks Rob.


Can you explain when you would recommend using each of the different R2 and R3 values?  I understand that they raise the attenuation but when does it get too much?

 

The amount of attenuation you need is situation dependent. If you have just a little noise floor hiss or just need a little more volume control then 12dB might be appropriate. If you need more then 18 and if you're using a 100+ watt amp then 25dB or more might be warranted. For most people going with 18dB to start with is probably best.

post #3603 of 3613
Quote:
Originally Posted by robrob View Post
 

 

The amount of attenuation you need is situation dependent. If you have just a little noise floor hiss or just need a little more volume control then 12dB might be appropriate. If you need more then 18 and if you're using a 100+ watt amp then 25dB or more might be warranted. For most people going with 18dB to start with is probably best.

Thanks for the info.

 

Would this wire be suitable for the internal wiring?

http://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/elenco-22-gauge-black-25-ft.html

 

I can get it pretty cheap in Canada and get different colours.  It's 22 gauge but you mentioned in your guide you would go with 20 next time - would this be good enough for long term or should I look around for 20?  Also it is solid...is solid better than stranded for these uses?

 

 

Description

 25' #22 gauge black hook-up wire
 Useful for prototyping on breadboards 
 Maximum recommended current: 7A

The Elenco 25' #22 Gauge Black Hook-Up Wire is the solid copper hook-up wire for use with breadboards or general wiring that will not undergo repeated flexing. The insulation is rated for 300V and the maximum recommended current is 7A.


Edited by DaemonSire - 6/20/14 at 1:40pm
post #3604 of 3613

Maybe a stupid question for you guys but I want to make sure this will work.  I'm currently using a Fiio A1 (not common ground) to drive my LCD-2.  I'm using a banana plug > female 4 pin XLR and then the audeze balanced cable.  I'm thinking of getting a pair of Hifiman and I am wondering if I could use the same banana plug to XLR cable + the hifiman balance cable? 

post #3605 of 3613
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassboysam View Post
 

Maybe a stupid question for you guys but I want to make sure this will work.  I'm currently using a Fiio A1 (not common ground) to drive my LCD-2.  I'm using a banana plug > female 4 pin XLR and then the audeze balanced cable.  I'm thinking of getting a pair of Hifiman and I am wondering if I could use the same banana plug to XLR cable + the hifiman balance cable? 

You can indeed do that :)

post #3606 of 3613

excellent, thanks!

post #3607 of 3613
Banana to balanced is always safe, as long as your headphone cable is truly balanced, meaning + and - to each channel.
post #3608 of 3613

Hey guys,

I got a computer about a month ago and when I first plugged in my computer and the Topping TP60 into the same power bar, I heard a loud whine from my HE-500s and I was really confused about the problem so for about a week I didn't use the amp. For the time being I used my E17 as the DAC and Amp and then I got the idea that I would use a power outlet from a nearby room for the Amp and that fixed the problem. However 2 weeks later we moved and the same problem persisted but this time, using another outlet in an adjacent room didn't fix the problem so I am stuck here using my E17 again.

I did some research and found that it probably is a ground loop issue but I am not entirely sure. I was thinking if using an RCA ground loop isolator would fix the problem since unplugging the RCA while the amp was on and connected to the HE-500s caused no sound interference. Also to note that when I was getting the interference, I could hear my clicks in the interference so it could be I need a USB isolator. Another interesting thing is that when I used my phone as a source, there was no interference. Which leads me to believe the problem is my computer but I am not sure but I would really like listening to the HE-500s with the speaker amp again.

These are the things I was thinking might fix the issue but not sure.

http://www.amazon.ca/RioRand-Channel-Isolator-Connections-Reduction/dp/B00LGJYV9A/[1]

or

http://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-PLGI36R-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ1QGM[2] (using an AUX from E17 instead of RCA)

post #3609 of 3613

Do you get the same whine when plugging the e17 into the TP60?

 

If you're on a laptop, did you try running on battery power?

post #3610 of 3613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post
 

Do you get the same whine when plugging the e17 into the TP60?

 

If you're on a laptop, did you try running on battery power?

 

Thanks for the suggestion, going to try that in a second. Didn't think of that and the whine is there regardless if I use the E17 as a DAC or use the AUX end straight into the computer. But there is no whine when I tried to use my phone or DAP as the source. 

Edit: Just tried it with my laptop, with battery and while plugged in and there's no hiss/whine. So I guess it is just with the computer since I do have a 750W power supply if that has anything to do with it. 


Edited by IwasDerp - 7/18/14 at 3:51pm
post #3611 of 3613

One of those ground loop isolators that you linked earlier should do the trick then.

post #3612 of 3613
Quote:
Originally Posted by IwasDerp View Post
 

Hey guys,

I got a computer about a month ago and when I first plugged in my computer and the Topping TP60 into the same power bar, I heard a loud whine from my HE-500s and I was really confused about the problem so for about a week I didn't use the amp. For the time being I used my E17 as the DAC and Amp and then I got the idea that I would use a power outlet from a nearby room for the Amp and that fixed the problem. However 2 weeks later we moved and the same problem persisted but this time, using another outlet in an adjacent room didn't fix the problem so I am stuck here using my E17 again.

I did some research and found that it probably is a ground loop issue but I am not entirely sure. I was thinking if using an RCA ground loop isolator would fix the problem since unplugging the RCA while the amp was on and connected to the HE-500s caused no sound interference. Also to note that when I was getting the interference, I could hear my clicks in the interference so it could be I need a USB isolator. Another interesting thing is that when I used my phone as a source, there was no interference. Which leads me to believe the problem is my computer but I am not sure but I would really like listening to the HE-500s with the speaker amp again.

These are the things I was thinking might fix the issue but not sure.

http://www.amazon.ca/RioRand-Channel-Isolator-Connections-Reduction/dp/B00LGJYV9A/[1]

or

http://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-PLGI36R-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ1QGM[2] (using an AUX from E17 instead of RCA)

here are two more to choose from:

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=108&cp_id=10844&cs_id=1084402&p_id=6909&seq=1&format=2

 

http://www.amazon.ca/Stinger-SGN20-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B002ZRQ3PW

post #3613 of 3613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post
 

One of those ground loop isolators that you linked earlier should do the trick then.

 

Quote:


Thank you for the suggestion guys, I went ahead and bought the monoprice one as it was the cheapest. :) 

Should be here next week and hopefully this should do the trick. Then I can finally start listening to the HE-500s at full potential, missing out so much right now. :(


Edited by IwasDerp - 7/18/14 at 9:57pm
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