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HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project - Page 216

post #3226 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by micmacmo View Post
Hi, all, does it matter whether R3 is upstream or downstream of R2?

 

The chart is for the L-pad in the diagram and putting R3 upstream changes all the values. I recommend you go with the L-pad in the diagram.

post #3227 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post

I've been getting quite a few PMs about the Robinette box. I think it's stemming from this thread. I will consider making a 'batch' of 5-10 to keep costs down if there is enough interest for this box beerchug.gif
Couldn't you have said that a week ago? Lol
post #3228 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

I've been getting quite a few PMs about the Robinette box. I think it's stemming from this thread. I will consider making a 'batch' of 5-10 to keep costs down if there is enough interest for this box :beerchug:

Interested. Count me in.

post #3229 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post
 

At the very cheapest you could probably make one for $5 and just stick bare wire into the binding posts. But moving up into some sturdier components, add the bananas, some wire not from the hardware store, some sleeving, some braiding... $50 isn't too far off:

 

adapter: banana post to 4-pin XLR; 4-wire braid stranded copper and sleeved

 

Or, as someone mentioned before on this thread somewhere I believe, you can do it with

two of these:  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010CEIH8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=18ZXCXQ9MERAB&coliid=I2JYPPSL3CX237

and one of these:  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O5D/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=18ZXCXQ9MERAB&coliid=I2M2IKLV6DYTNU

 

Which currently would run you about $27.

post #3230 of 3792

Thanks, Armaegis, Davidsh and robrob. Lesson learned. I think I caught it early and I'm glad the price wasn't high. 

post #3231 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by punit View Post
 

Interested. Count me in.

OK there one person :)

 

Need atleast 4 more people to sign up for interest.


Edited by brunk - 2/18/14 at 9:31am
post #3232 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

OK there one person :)

 

I can get the material cost down to $48-55 for 5 boxes, not including labor and shipping to you guys. It's the exact box Rob is using, minus the BNC jacks, and that the box is anodized black instead of silver. You can have silver for no charge, but anodized is always best IMO.

 

Need atleast 4 more people to sign up for interest.


Any clarification on what this is for exactly?

post #3233 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimzerz View Post
 


Any clarification on what this is for exactly?


for this :

 

http://robrobinette.com/RobinetteBox.htm

post #3234 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by punit View Post
 


for this :

 

http://robrobinette.com/RobinetteBox.htm

Yes, it's for the Robinette v3 box, without the optional BNC jacks.


Edited by brunk - 2/14/14 at 1:35pm
post #3235 of 3792

Update: For those of you curious, I am offering to build the Robinette v3 box with black anodized metal enclosure. I need 5 people at minimum to do this economically. For those of you in the continental USA, the cost will be $94 shipped.

 

http://robrobinette.com/RobinetteBox.htm


Edited by brunk - 2/18/14 at 9:32am
post #3236 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

Update: For those of you curious, I am offering to build the Robinette v3 box with black anodized metal enclosure. I need 5 people at minimum to do this economically. For those of you in the continental USA, the cost will be $94 shipped. That includes parts, labor, paypal fees and priority mail shipping.

Very nice! :beerchug: 

post #3237 of 3792
Quote:
Originally Posted by brunk View Post
 

Update: For those of you curious, I am offering to build the Robinette v3 box with black anodized metal enclosure. I need 5 people at minimum to do this economically. For those of you in the continental USA, the cost will be $94 shipped. That includes parts, labor, paypal fees and priority mail shipping.

 

http://robrobinette.com/RobinetteBox.htm

 

I have one person signed up so far, need atleast 4 more.

 

Take my HE-Adapter and a $10 check? :rolleyes:

 

I'm highly interested but on the fence while I sort through trying to convert my mono blocks to 16 Ohm operation. You can pretty much put me down, though. But I've a handful of questions and think maybe I should ask them on the other side. Or at least the last one. 

 

- Will you be using Vishay resistors as shown and will they be "Wirewound?"

- Will be able to use the 4-pin XLR for my Single-ended tube amps?

- Can use the HD650 for my tube amps in spite of high sensitivity?

- Can I add the cost for higher quality binding posts?

- Can I get it now? :tongue_smile:

post #3238 of 3792

- Will be able to use the 4-pin XLR for my Single-ended tube amps?

 

Yes, put the 'Amp Mode Switch' in the 'Single-Ended Headphones to S-E Output Amp' position:

 

The three Amplifier Mode Switch positions are:

 

1. Single-Ended Headphones to Single-Ended Output Amplifier. Switch lever toward TRS headphone jacks. Use this position for amplifiers with single-ended output (common ground).  All three headphone jacks are active.

 

WARNING: Only use the "Single-Ended Headphones to Single Ended Amplifier" switch position when connected to an amplifier that has its black speaker terminals tied together (common ground or single-ended). Selecting this position while connected to an amp with balanced output can damage your headphones and amplifier. I used a toggle switch with a latching lever to prevent accidental selection of this position. You can verify the amp's black speaker terminals are tied together by using a multimeter's continuity test. With the amp unplugged touch the multimeter's probes to the black speaker terminals. If you get the continuity beep your black speaker terminals are tied together and it's safe to use the single-ended amp switch position. If you do not get continuity your amp has balanced output and you should not engage this mode. Your amp's schematic diagram will also show a ground symbol connected to the black speaker posts. More info on balanced versus single-ended amplifier output can be found here.

 

2. Balanced Headphones to Balanced Output Amplifier (TRS Jacks off). Switch lever centered. Use this for amplifiers with balanced output (non-common ground). Only the XLR jack is active. The TRS headphone jacks' combined ground is disconnected to protect the amplifier.

 

3. Single-Ended Headphones to Balanced Output Amp. Switch lever toward XLR jack. Use this position when you need to use single-ended headphones with an amplifier that has balanced output. The balanced amplifier is protected from the TRS jacks' combined ground by resistors R5. All three headphone jacks are active.

 

- Can use the HD650 for my tube amps in spite of high sensitivity?

 

Yes but if they are very sensitive or you're going to use it with an amp of over 100 watts per channel you might want to go from the standard 12.4dB of attenuation to 18dB by using an R2 of 7 ohms and an R3 of 1 ohm.

post #3239 of 3792

^What he said :P you can send me PM to discuss more

post #3240 of 3792

Yeah, I'll follow up on the other side. The HD650 are secondary - all priorities go to the HE-6. And then if the Senns don't mind "Seconds," we'll make it work!

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