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HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project - Page 207

post #3091 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsh View Post
 

My emotiva makes a pop when it goes into standby mode with my 5le's connected. Even worse, when turning on from standby mode it makes an uncomfortably loud 'tick' sound. Have not heard anyone complaining over that yet. I would really like not to send the emo in for repair, as that'll be pretty darn expensive, but it annoys me quite a lot that emotiva send out a unit that seemingly has potential to damage speakers/headphones upon turn off. I'd be okay with it if I could disable the standby mode and just unplug the headphones before turn off, but I suppose I can't. Am a little dissappointed.

 

EDIT: Well, the power mode switch set to on will have the emo always on. Then I am only ever so slightly dissappointed after all


Contact Emotiva. The mini-X A-100 does come with a 5 Year warranty, maybe theyll pay for shipping both ways for a warranty claim if they think something is wrong with it when you call them.

post #3092 of 3639

My Emotiva makes a loud click when it comes out of standby mode, but this is a noise physically coming from the unit. I do not hear any clicks or pops from the headphone drivers when this happens. 

post #3093 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by manbear View Post
 

My Emotiva makes a loud click when it comes out of standby mode, but this is a noise physically coming from the unit. I do not hear any clicks or pops from the headphone drivers when this happens. 


Thats probably a relay in the unit itself and as long as you arent hearing anything through the headphones Im sure all is normal there.

post #3094 of 3639

Yep, I've long turned off the standby switch. Don't really know what they were thinking with that one. It does make a rather awkward tick noise through headphones...

 

Edit, its not really a pop, more a loud tick.


Edited by daerron - 1/22/14 at 1:25pm
post #3095 of 3639

Well, I am definitely hearing something through the headphone. Hear it in my speakers as well. I'd say 90-100 dB very short tick when wearing my headphones on. I'd say it is about or close to as loud through the 5le as the tick from the emotiva itself (not havin the headphones on obviously). Must mention the volume control is sitting at 10-11 o'clock as I am using my x-can as pre for practical reasons.

post #3096 of 3639

Most of the power amps have relays in them. On my TX8050 I can heard the power relay and shortly after the speaker relay. I have not heard the clicking on my Emotiva mini-x thru my headphones.   


Edited by john57 - 1/23/14 at 5:54pm
post #3097 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by robrob View Post
 

 

kas, since the Emotiva solid state amps don't really need matching speaker load you can get away with just running a resistor in series on the + wires to give you some attenuation and drop the noise floor and hopefully hum. On the hum issue, do you have everything plugged into the same power receptacle or extension? Doing that will minimize the chance of developing ground loop hum. But back to the attenuation resistor, if you add a 40 ohm 5 watt resistor to both + lines you'll get 6 dB of attenuation which should be enough to effectively decrease the amp gain and drop the noise floor. 70 ohms would give you 9 dB of attenuation, and 110 would give you 12 dB..


Robrob, To refresh your memory, this was your response to post #2866.   I finally got my act together and added a 40ohm 5 watt resistor to both the + lines.  I used 5 watt 40ohm 1% Ohmite Wirewound Resistos from Mouser.  Result is better, but I still have a slight hum.  I assume I should next try 72 ohm resistors?  Also, do you have a recommendation for a better resistor?  And finally, kind of a dumb (and rookie wiring) question--Is there a special way to connect the resistors to the wire?  I just wrapped the exposed wire around them so that it touched both metal ends of the resistor (and then soldered where the wires touched, covered the resulting mess with shrink wrap and then connected the remaining wire to a banana plug.  It isn't pretty, but I assume it should work.  Thanks for you continuing help and patience

post #3098 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by kas49 View Post
 


Robrob, To refresh your memory, this was your response to post #2866.   I finally got my act together and added a 40ohm 5 watt resistor to both the + lines.  I used 5 watt 40ohm 1% Ohmite Wirewound Resistos from Mouser.  Result is better, but I still have a slight hum.  I assume I should next try 72 ohm resistors?  Also, do you have a recommendation for a better resistor?  And finally, kind of a dumb (and rookie wiring) question--Is there a special way to connect the resistors to the wire?  I just wrapped the exposed wire around them so that it touched both metal ends of the resistor (and then soldered where the wires touched, covered the resulting mess with shrink wrap and then connected the remaining wire to a banana plug.  It isn't pretty, but I assume it should work.  Thanks for you continuing help and patience

I recommend you go on up to 100 ohms for around 12dB of attenuation. If you need more than that (I doubt it) you have to go to 220 ohms to get to 18dB.

 

I'm not a resistor snob so I'd go with Vishay/Dale (or just Vishay or Dale) or Mills wirewound 1% resistors.

 

Your wiring job sounds fine. As long as you get a good solder joint it doesn't have to look pretty. Ideally you'd want some strain relief but as long as you don't pull the wires too much it should hold up with a good shrink-tube job.

post #3099 of 3639

Order this resister here: LINK

post #3100 of 3639

I ve been driving HE6/500 with my vintage luxman l570 for while. I think this is the only way to get the best out of HE6. For HE500, i prefer pairing them with Burson Soloist. Luxman amp is very thick sounding, which complement HE6 sound signature really well.

post #3101 of 3639

Thanks all for this thread! I bought mini-x and connected my headphones.

It's WOW! Emotiva mini-x could drive my 300Ohm GermanMaestro 8.300D easily with realy pleasant bass and soundstage.

I also enjoy my AKG K550 with 300 Ohm adapter (I had a hiss without adapter).

post #3102 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by robrob View Post
 

I recommend you go on up to 100 ohms for around 12dB of attenuation. If you need more than that (I doubt it) you have to go to 220 ohms to get to 18dB.

 

I'm not a resistor snob so I'd go with Vishay/Dale (or just Vishay or Dale) or Mills wirewound 1% resistors.

 

Your wiring job sounds fine. As long as you get a good solder joint it doesn't have to look pretty. Ideally you'd want some strain relief but as long as you don't pull the wires too much it should hold up with a good shrink-tube job.

 

Thanks robrob and ben_r_.  Will do.

post #3103 of 3639

Even better, get this 110ohm for "exactly" 12dB. (LINK). Thats the one Im going to use.

post #3104 of 3639
I'll do koiloco's job and say, welcome to the mini-x club!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chs177 View Post

Thanks all for this thread! I bought mini-x and connected my headphones.
It's WOW! Emotiva mini-x could drive my 300Ohm GermanMaestro 8.300D easily with realy pleasant bass and soundstage.
I also enjoy my AKG K550 with 300 Ohm adapter (I had a hiss without adapter).
post #3105 of 3639

So where can I find some good (maybe gold) spade connectors (or any other good connector) for connecting to the back of the speaker screw terminals / banana jacks to wire the internal TRS jack to the front panel? Preferably something I can solder to and obviously something that will fit those screw terminals.

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