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HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project - Page 205

post #3061 of 3638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grado77 View Post
 

 

That looks just great.....how about the internal wiring to the jack......is there any worry of interference? I'd like to put a jack on the front like yours.

 

I just made a set of bananas to a locking TRS and its working fine...........today I tried out my self modded T50RP and surprised to see they take about 11 o'clock on mini.......they sound just phenomenal, haven't ever sounded this rich, loud, and meaty at the same time.......

I used shielded mogami cable so there's no need to worry about interference.  Wow, T50RP takes the volume to 11??? that's more than HE500 but yeah, this amp is impressive for the $ and orthos.

post #3062 of 3638
Quote:
Originally Posted by koiloco View Post
 

Okie, I admit it.  I am a Mini-X fanboy.  :D  Another clone.

 

 

On our local AV forum a Mini-X was just advertised for a very good price. I'm severely tempted to buy it... Also found a very nice balanced 4-pin socket at our local electronics store, but you have to fix it using screws which I guess can be a problem with the thick faceplate?

 

Btw, the Mini-X can be taken to 11 o'clock quite easily using the Concero as it outputs 1,2Vrms on the RCA outs (its normally around 10 o'clock mark), it helped a lot getting a bit more playing range on the volume knob with the Mini-X and to avoid the slight channel imbalances at 9 o'clock.

post #3063 of 3638
^ ah, I forgot about diff output voltage from various DACs. Thx.
post #3064 of 3638

Just a reminder to anyone doing a DIY jack on the front of the unit: http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-rean-nys221-1-4-stereo-jack-thick-panel--092-128

post #3065 of 3638

That is a nice chromed rugged jack and a bit easier to see the hole in low light.

 

P.S. I would like to see this kind of jack used by more manufactures.


Edited by john57 - 1/17/14 at 9:40am
post #3066 of 3638

Hmmm, Mouser has it for $2 + $60 shipping to South Africa. Hmmmm... Tempting offer! :confused:

post #3067 of 3638

So I went through the last ten pages and Im a bit confused, why are so many around here installing inline resistors from the speaker post outputs?! Is it to combat some noise issue? Is everyone experiencing this noise issue?

post #3068 of 3638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonido View Post
 

Okay I'm sold on Emotiva (with Quickie) with the HD800 as well. It's better than Crack. There I said it. Koiloco will agree with me that it pairs well with the Emotiva. It's something with our batch. We both bought from Amazon during the special $890 sale and the serial numbers are 25XXX to 26XXX. It's not sibilant at all. Koiloco and I have listened to the same HD800 that belonged to a mutual friend of ours, and we both thought it had sibilance and treble problems, but when we received ours today, those problems were nonexistent. We did some measurements to confirm this. My set peaks at 5.5KHz and then tapers off. Worn for hours now, no fatigue at all. In fact, I get more fatigue from HE-500 and its bass impact. Koiloco said he tried our mutual friend's HD800 with the Emotiva and it sounded horrible, which is a stark contrast to our HD800s we received today paired with the Emotiva.

 

Seriously wondering if Sennheiser did a recent revision.

 

One drawback is it seems to have a higher noise floor than HE-500 when paired with Emotiva.


Wait, there was a deal for the Sennheiser HD-800's for $890?!

post #3069 of 3638
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post
 


Wait, there was a deal for the Sennheiser HD-800's for $890?!

Yeah, for maybe 15 minutes on Amazon a month or two back.

post #3070 of 3638
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post


Wait, there was a deal for the Sennheiser HD-800's for $890?!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taowolf51 View Post

Yeah, for maybe 15 minutes on Amazon a month or two back.
Remember 12/19/13 around 8pm EST.
post #3071 of 3638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taowolf51 View Post
 

Yeah, for maybe 15 minutes on Amazon a month or two back.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonido View Post



Remember 12/19/13 around 8pm EST.


Damn it... How could I have missed that....

post #3072 of 3638
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_r_ View Post
 

So I went through the last ten pages and Im a bit confused, why are so many around here installing inline resistors from the speaker post outputs?! Is it to combat some noise issue? Is everyone experiencing this noise issue?

Not all of us, but a majority yes. Mine, no noise, pretty much black,tested with ears other than my own as well.  

post #3073 of 3638

Step One:

 

FWIW, here's what I did based on koiloco's idea. 

 

Initially, I installed the mini xlr and TRS jacks on the face plate of the Emotiva a-100. 

 

I heard a hum from my Mini a-100 that sounds like a ground loop or 60 cycles per second hum so I added resistors following robrob's schematic a couple of weeks later and the hum disappeared (see Step Two, below). The Emotiva Mini a-100 performs very well, for me, and sounds good. For the price, you can't go wrong. 

 

If you get a Mini a-100 and choose to modify it like koiloco with a headphone jack off the speaker terminals, you have to measure VERY Carefully because you only get on shot at it. There is limited space behind the face plate and I just barely got it "right."

 

You need to:

remove the knob - it pulls straight off. Not easy, but it's only friction mounted

remove the case cover and face plate (Put screws in a medicine bottle and use a foam pad in case you drop them)

move the heat sink to the side, actually towards the front just enough to reach the nuts on the speaker taps

and remove the volume pot board from the back of the face plate. Make sure you don't lose the little white, plastic washer between the volume pot stem and face plate's clear "window."

 

Measure the width of the front side aluminum accent and mark its position from top to bottom of the Rear side of the face plate. Measure and mark your "pilot" hole for your TRS jack. Draw a 1/4" hole centered over your pilot mark.

 

Digital calipers are essential for accurate measurements which is important when tolerances are so small. Make sure your 1/4" circle around the pilot mark does not impinge upon the edge of the volume pot board And its wire assembly.

 

If only installing a Single End TRS jack, put it on the front-left side of the face plate because there is more room to work, there. Note, I added a mini xlr because it looked too difficult to use a standard XLR without drilling into the volume pot circuit board and the front side aluminum accent.

 

Drill a pilot hole with a 1/16th inch drill bit from the back side of the face plate. Increase the bit size or use a step drill bit to reach 1/4" in diameter.

 

AppleMark

Blue and Clear wires are for + and - TRS/mini xlr jacks to speaker terminals.

 

 

AppleMark

Large black Mogami cable under  and around Toroidal power supply with splitter at the top of the volume pot circuit board going to TRS at top right side and xlr at the bottom right side.

 

 

Splitter on right side goes to TRS on right and xlr on left side of circuit board.

 

 

Circuit board for volume pot with jacks on either side.

 

 

TRS jack right next to harness plug.

 

 

XLR next to other harness assembly.

 

 

 

 

AppleMark

 

 

Step Two:

 

I installed robrob's preferred resistor mod in my Mini a-100.

 

I did not want to cut the wires near the headphone jacks so I soldered spades onto the ends of the 5 watt resistors, bent the leads to fit under the heat sink, and soldered the Positive wires to the other end of the 5 watt leads. I cut out small sections from the all 4 wires and soldered the 3 watt resistors in place. Heat shrink and liquid electrical tape provides some shielding and insulation.

 

No more noise.

Better volume pot control.

 

Thanks robrob!

 

5 watt Vishay Dale Resistors with spades and heat shrink

 

 

Positive wire to headphone jacks

 

 

Mini xlr and SE jacks split off the same 4 wires


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 2/11/14 at 2:53pm
post #3074 of 3638

Really nice work bluemonkey. I'm glad the hiss is gone and your volume control is better.

post #3075 of 3638
Quote:
Originally Posted by robrob View Post
 

Really nice work bluemonkey. I'm glad the hiss is gone and your volume control is better.

Cheers, Rob.  :beerchug:

 

Keith

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