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Head-Fi Buying Guide (Over-Ear Headphones) 2
Last edited: 8/29/14
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Here are my impressions of the Fiio X1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bEj0wLE-ojU
HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project - Page 201post #3001 of 36391/11/14 at 11:31pmI need one on an hp extension cable then I guess.
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #3002 of 36391/11/14 at 11:33pmpost #3003 of 36391/11/14 at 11:35pmpost #3004 of 36391/12/14 at 6:15amQuote:
So, you went for attenuation but no speaker load matching. What headphones are you using and did it knock out the noise?
I have what sounds like a 60 cps hum with the volume pot at 1/3 or higher, with no music playing. Is what I refer to as "hum" the same as others call "hiss?" If so, maybe the 2-resistor network would work best for me: R2 = 5 watt, 6 ohm...R3 = 3 watt, 2 ohmpost #3005 of 36391/12/14 at 6:33amThe HE-4 had a minimal noise floor on the right channel, more prominent on the T50RP. Yeah, I basically looked around for 200ohm resistors and could only find 150. I wasn't looking to be real scientific or anything, I just couldn't listen to this amp in stock form.post #3006 of 36391/12/14 at 7:03am
FWIW, here's what I did based on koiloco's idea.
I have a hum from my Mini a-100 that sounds like a ground loop or 60 cycles per second hum. I'm going to add resistors and see if they knock it out. The Emotiva Mini a-100 performs very well, for me, and sounds good. For the price, you can't go wrong.
If you get a Mini a-100 and choose to modify it like koiloco with a headphone jack off the speaker terminals, you have to measure VERY Carefully because you only get on shot at it. There is limited space behind the face plate and I just barely got it "right."
You need to:
remove the knob - it pulls straight off. Not easy, but it's only friction mounted
remove the case cover and face plate (Put screws in a medicine bottle and use a foam pad in case you drop them)
move the heat sink to the side, actually towards the front just enough to reach the nuts on the speaker taps
and remove the volume pot board from the back of the face plate. Make sure you don't lose the little white, plastic washer between the volume pot stem and face plate's clear "window."
Measure the width of the front side aluminum accent and mark its position from top to bottom of the Rear side of the face plate. Measure and mark your "pilot" hole for your TRS jack. Draw a 1/4" hole centered over your pilot mark.
Digital calipers are essential for accurate measurements which is important when tolerances are so small. Make sure your 1/4" circle around the pilot mark does not impinge upon the edge of the volume pot board And its wire assembly.
If only installing a Single End TRS jack, put it on the front-left side of the face plate because there is more room to work, there. Note, I added a mini xlr because it looked too difficult to use a standard XLR without drilling into the volume pot circuit board and the front side aluminum accent.
Drill a pilot hole with a 1/16th inch drill bit from the back side of the face plate. Increase the bit size or use a step drill bit to reach 1/4" in diameter.
Blue and Clear wires are for + and - TRS/mini xlr jacks to speaker terminals.
Large black Mogami cable under and around Toroidal power supply with splitter at the top of the volume pot circuit board going to TRS at top right side and xlr at the bottom right side.
Splitter on right side goes to TRS on right and xlr on left side of circuit board.
Circuit board for volume pot with jacks on either side.
TRS jack right next to harness plug.
XLR next to other harness assembly.
Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 1/12/14 at 8:08ampost #3007 of 36391/12/14 at 10:36ampost #3008 of 36391/12/14 at 10:39amI noticed in those pics that the transformer is black on the outside. Mine is covered in some kind silvery foil. Does anyone know what this difference means -- newer vs older version perhaps?post #3009 of 36391/12/14 at 1:32pmQuote:Originally Posted by robrob
Use the right side of the graphic. 110 ohm resistors on the two + headphone wires will give you 12dB of attenuation which is about the minimum I'd recommend anyone start with, so 100 to 200 ohm 3 watt resistors is my recommendation. One resistor attenuation like this is usually fine for solid state amps but for any tube amp I'd recommend you go with the left side of the graphic's two resistor network to match the amp's expected speaker load.
Would a 100 ohm, 10 watt, 10% resistor work?
If using only R2 what does 142+ ohms speaker load do to a solid state amp?
Thanks for all the help!post #3010 of 36391/12/14 at 1:37pmpost #3011 of 36391/12/14 at 1:39pmpost #3012 of 36391/12/14 at 1:41pmQuote:
Yes, that's what I figured with the cheap Radio Shack stuff they had on hand.
What about the watts=10?
BTW, I ordered the 5 watt/6 ohm and 3 watt/2 ohm 1% Resistors by Vishay, from Mouser.post #3013 of 36391/12/14 at 1:43pmpost #3014 of 36391/12/14 at 3:37pmQuote:
^This. 100 ohm 5 watt 1% wirewound Vishay or Vishay-Dale is what you want.
For the two resistor network 6 ohm 5 watt and 2 ohm 3 watt 1% V-D wirewound is my choice.post #3015 of 36391/13/14 at 12:38am
I have a very basic electrical / engineering knowledge, so will be grateful if anyone can help me with the following. I plan to try my HE 500's from the 8 ohm speaker taps of the Cayin audio AT70 Tube integrated amp. I will use the Hifiman HE adapter & balanced HP cable. The links for all are as below :
Will there be any issues that i should watch out for or things should go fine ?
- HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project
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