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Head-Fi Buying Guide (Over-Ear Headphones) 3
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- Head-Fi Buying Guide (Ultra-High-End Headphones (Summit-Fi))Last edited: 12/4/15
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HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project - Page 188post #2806 of 378812/19/13 at 2:07amEmo arrived but no 500 to test it with...
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #2807 of 378812/19/13 at 2:17amQuote:
I had the Dragonfly which is a bit too bassy with the Mini-X. The Dragonfly was better sounding than the MS2, so I'd struck both of those off your list. The Modi is probably your best bet.post #2808 of 378812/19/13 at 2:26ampost #2809 of 378812/19/13 at 2:31am
Haven't heard the ODAC, so can't really comment on it, but a lot of the hype around it seems to have died out. I was quite interested in getting one, before deciding on the Dragonfly (got a good deal on one). Schiit knows their schiit and the AKM DAC usually strikes a good balance. I would also be very interested in the Audioengine D3.post #2810 of 378812/19/13 at 2:34ampost #2811 of 378812/19/13 at 2:44amQuote:
The Dragonfly is definitely better than the MS2. The MS2 sounds a bit grainy. The DF is more tuned to a fun sound, but its quite clean sounding. The DF can sound a bit congested when the music gets hectic, that is what mostly separates it from more expensive DACs. Considering the DFs current pricing, it is a steal though.
Edited by daerron - 12/19/13 at 2:47ampost #2812 of 378812/19/13 at 2:56amQuote:
ODAC is always seems to be labelled as great bang for buck. Will need to get it one of these days. Otherwise this post is merely to confuse you with even more options/suggestions. None of which I have had the pleasure of listening to but perhaps you might consider if you are now looking at costlier options like the Dragonfly. These are the ones that came to mind when the Dragonfly was mentioned (not sure of local prices but between 150-300 USD I believe):
- Audioengine D3 (a USB DAC)
- Light Harmonic Geek Plus
- Resonessance Labs Herus
Perhaps others have heard these and compared to the ODAC and the like. Otherwise, good luck in your search.post #2813 of 378812/19/13 at 4:43amQuote:
Yea, somebody jump in here and tell me what I got wrong on that layman's explanation of what happened with the backwards HE-Adapter + single-ended headphones. I re-read my explanation and it sounds pretty spot on.post #2814 of 378812/19/13 at 6:06am
I have an ODAC, I like it. Nice detail, and *very* transparent. If you want to hear your DAC, don't get an ODAC.post #2815 of 378812/19/13 at 7:31ampost #2816 of 378812/19/13 at 7:37ampost #2817 of 378812/19/13 at 7:39ampost #2818 of 378812/19/13 at 12:56pmQuote:
Have you ever touched a wire across the terminals of a battery? It gets very hot, very fast. Even with a low voltage, the very very low resistance of the wire means you're pumping a lot of current through it. Try raking a 9V across some steel wool and you'll see sparks fly (please don't do this indoors or without gloves if you've never done this before... edit: in fact, just youtube it, don't do this at home kids).
Now back to the amplifier. All amps have an output impedance. For our purposes right now let's just assume that's the same as resistance. Most of the time we only think of it in terms of how it relates to damping factor, BUT...
Let's take our L+. It's happily pumping out a voltage signal, and it doesn't care what it's connected to. We've also got our R+ who at this very moment isn't playing anything, because we're being weird and only playing left sided test tones. Now let's connect L+ and R+ together. From the L+ perspective, it doesn't see R+. All it sees is an extremely small load (ie: the R+ output impedance) and tries to pump it's voltage signal through it, except it can't because it can't push that much current or that much current makes things go boom because it's not just a wire there, we've got all that fancy circuitry instead. Now if R+ were also making music, you'd have the same thing on the other side. And when you push an amp beyond the safe limits, all bets are off as to what might happen. Maybe you'll just trigger a safety shut down. Maybe it'll be more catastrophic as the heat damages something and lowers resistance more which accelerates the problem. Maybe the amp surged or popped or whatever during the failure. Who knows.
If L+ and R+ were also connected to the headphone, well, the "proper" way to look at it is each circuit separately, then sum the results. Things don't really "join" then "split", it's more accurate that they sum/overlap at the common paths (it may seem like semantics, but it's important to note the difference). This overlap can potentially do damage if the summed signal is very large. It was probably a combination of this and a surge on the amp end that blew the hole in your driver. Maybe. Just an educated guess from me.
Edited by Armaegis - 12/19/13 at 1:02pmpost #2819 of 378812/19/13 at 1:01pmpost #2820 of 378812/19/13 at 2:02pmI see your point, yet the + channels were seperated by 40 ohms of resistance. Why should one channel suddenly **** up and send several volts of DC? Well, guess the answer is that it shouldn't
- HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project
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