That looks like a thick front plate.
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Head-Fi Buying Guide (Over-Ear Headphones) 2
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This is a quick unboxing and review of the player. More detailed review coming soon.
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HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project - Page 174post #2596 of 368412/10/13 at 10:01pm
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #2597 of 368412/10/13 at 10:22pmQuote:
Nope, it's easier than that. There are nuts internally on the other side of the speaker connections. Just loosen the nuts and put your wires directly on there and tighten the nuts. If you wanna go fancy then solder your wires on wire rings/spades. Parts used :
Gluck. PM me if you needed help.post #2598 of 368412/10/13 at 10:24pm
1/4" thick. It took 30 seconds to punch through on slow speed. The hole was nice and clean. With the cobalt bit, It was like drilling butter.post #2599 of 368412/11/13 at 1:17amQuote:
Would you say there's space to make a resistor network inside to attenuate a headphone out? Any ideas how it could be done without shorting stuff and keeping the resistors away from the other components?post #2600 of 368412/11/13 at 1:50ampost #2601 of 368412/11/13 at 2:41amQuote:Originally Posted by wje
Here's a link to the post in this thread with a few more details, pictures, etc. on how the 1/4" jack was mounted into the front panel. The work looks excellent!
Oh, with this amp on sale for $169 (again), I think it just proves that the few times each year Emotiva runs a sale, they are crazier than Schiit for what is offered.
Wayne. Hey man..post #2602 of 368412/11/13 at 2:42amQuote:
I might have asked this before.
Can you fit a 4-pin XLR connector there in the place of the SE connector?post #2603 of 368412/11/13 at 6:14amQuote:
I'll let you know in a month or 2 haha. I'm thinking a bit of hot glue to stuck the wires the the top of the chassis. Making sure not to glue the resistors so they don't overheat. Just the wires. This might make it extremely tricky to ever open the chassis again though haha.post #2604 of 368412/11/13 at 6:17amQuote:If anything this should take up less room inside. I just have to figure out how to make it solid and stay in place.
http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/26643-xlr-chassis-socket-4-pin-762-969-0-31.htmlpost #2605 of 368412/11/13 at 9:30amQuote:
I got mine from an eBay search for 5-way binding post.
Edited by robrob - 12/11/13 at 9:33ampost #2606 of 368412/11/13 at 9:32amQuote:Originally Posted by Drsparis
If anything this should take up less room inside. I just have to figure out how to make it solid and stay in place.
I recommend you guys use Neutrik 4-Pin panel connectors. They're better quality for about the same price. I get mine on eBay. Search, "Neutrik 4 pin XLR panel."
I'd use small self-tapping screws to mount the XLR panel connector.post #2607 of 368412/11/13 at 11:47amQuote:
Unless your HP cable terminates in 4 pin XLR already and you can't change that or don't have the adapter to go from XLR to 1/4" plug, there's no benefit to put that on the Mini-X cuz it has shared ground.post #2608 of 368412/11/13 at 1:39pmQuote:
Thank you. Just the keyword I was looking for. Why should it be 5 way, aren't other types of binding posts fine?
Thinking about it, I might have access to an engine lathe in the future, I'd suppose that'd be able to drill a hole in the front cover of the emo. No need for binding posts then :-)
On the other hand, If I'll use other speaker amps.. Hmm..
Edited by davidsh - 12/11/13 at 1:47pmpost #2609 of 368412/11/13 at 1:42pmQuote:
That's true, it will just make it less compatible....post #2610 of 368412/11/13 at 3:39pm
- HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project
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