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HE-500, LCD2, D5000, DT770, SR80, on a speaker amp (Emotiva mini-X A-100) Project - Page 174

post #2596 of 3639

That looks like a thick front plate.

post #2597 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drsparis View Post
 

Sweet, thanks a lot. I guess I would just solder on the insides of the outputs? the hard part is the hole I guess.

Nope, it's easier than that.  There are nuts internally on the other side of the speaker connections.  Just loosen the nuts and put your wires directly on there and tighten the nuts.  If you wanna go fancy then solder your wires on wire rings/spades.  Parts used :

 

http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-rean-nys221-1-4-stereo-jack-thick-panel--092-128

 

http://www.parts-express.com/gold-spade-lug-crimp-terminal-22-16-awg-8-2-pair--095-674

 

http://www.mogamicable.com/category/bulk/microphone/quad/

 

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1232-2-Inch-Cobalt-Reduced/dp/B00004RGVX/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1386742858&sr=8-6&keywords=dewalt+cobalt+drill+bit+1%2F2

 

 

Gluck.  PM me if you needed help.

post #2598 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by john57 View Post
 

That looks like a thick front plate.

1/4" thick.  It took 30 seconds to punch through on slow speed.  The hole was nice and clean.  With the cobalt bit, It was like drilling butter.

post #2599 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by koiloco View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by john57 View Post
 

That looks like a thick front plate.

1/4" thick.  It took 30 seconds to punch through on slow speed.  The hole was nice and clean.  With the cobalt bit, It was like drilling butter.

Would you say there's space to make a resistor network inside to attenuate a headphone out? Any ideas how it could be done without shorting stuff and keeping the resistors away from the other components?

post #2600 of 3639

Also, where do I find speaker binding posts, can't quite find them on mouser?

post #2601 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post
 

 

Here's a link to the post in this thread with a few more details, pictures, etc. on how the 1/4" jack was mounted into the front panel.  The work looks excellent!

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/629352/he-500-lcd2-d5000-dt770-sr80-on-a-speaker-amp-emotiva-mini-x-a-100-project/1560#post_9642469

 

Oh, with this amp on sale for $169 (again), I think it just proves that the few times each year Emotiva runs a sale, they are crazier than Schiit for what is offered.  :D

 

Wayne.  Hey man..

 

:beerchug:

post #2602 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by koiloco View Post
 

I love the Mini-x so much that I am going to run them Mono-block style.  :D

 

 

 

I might have asked this before.  

 

Can you fit a 4-pin XLR connector there in the place of the SE connector?

post #2603 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsh View Post

Would you say there's space to make a resistor network inside to attenuate a headphone out? Any ideas how it could be done without shorting stuff and keeping the resistors away from the other components?

I'll let you know in a month or 2 haha. I'm thinking a bit of hot glue to stuck the wires the the top of the chassis. Making sure not to glue the resistors so they don't overheat. Just the wires. This might make it extremely tricky to ever open the chassis again though haha.
post #2604 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by preproman View Post


I might have asked this before.  

Can you fit a 4-pin XLR connector there in the place of the SE connector?
If anything this should take up less room inside. I just have to figure out how to make it solid and stay in place.

http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/26643-xlr-chassis-socket-4-pin-762-969-0-31.html
post #2605 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsh View Post
 

Also, where do I find speaker binding posts, can't quite find them on mouser?

I got mine from an eBay search for 5-way binding post.


Edited by robrob - 12/11/13 at 9:33am
post #2606 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drsparis View Post


If anything this should take up less room inside. I just have to figure out how to make it solid and stay in place.

http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/26643-xlr-chassis-socket-4-pin-762-969-0-31.html

I recommend you guys use Neutrik 4-Pin panel connectors. They're better quality for about the same price. I get mine on eBay. Search, "Neutrik 4 pin XLR panel."

 

I'd use small self-tapping screws to mount the XLR panel connector.

post #2607 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by preproman View Post
 

 

 

I might have asked this before.  

 

Can you fit a 4-pin XLR connector there in the place of the SE connector?


Unless your HP cable terminates in 4 pin XLR already and you can't change that or don't have the adapter to go from XLR to 1/4" plug, there's no benefit to put that on the Mini-X cuz it has shared ground.

post #2608 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by robrob View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsh View Post
 

Also, where do I find speaker binding posts, can't quite find them on mouser?

I got mine from an eBay search for 5-way binding post.

Thank you. Just the keyword I was looking for. Why should it be 5 way, aren't other types of binding posts fine?

 

Thinking about it, I might have access to an engine lathe in the future, I'd suppose that'd be able to drill a hole in the front cover of the emo. No need for binding posts then :-)

On the other hand, If I'll use other speaker amps.. Hmm..


Edited by davidsh - 12/11/13 at 1:47pm
post #2609 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by koiloco View Post


Unless your HP cable terminates in 4 pin XLR already and you can't change that or don't have the adapter to go from XLR to 1/4" plug, there's no benefit to put that on the Mini-X cuz it has shared ground.

That's true, it will just make it less compatible....
post #2610 of 3639
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drsparis View Post


That's true, it will just make it less compatible....

Install both TRS and XLR jacks just for the cool factor ;) Or maybe a 1/8", 1/4" and XLR jack. :D

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