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post #7621 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by lostinthesauce View Post
 

I have it's older big brother; the Y50.  Solid piece of kit but the trackpad is kinda kitschy.  Also, with Trendnet routers, for some reason the wifi needs to be disabled/re-enabled every couple of days.  Works fine with Cradlepoint and Linksys though.  It's really odd.  Also when transcoding under Linux and forcing max speeds (a la Throttlestop) it can get quite warm.  Have seen it climb up to 95.

 

Mine has literally been around the world, twice, and has no issues other than a slight ding to the plastic lip right in front of the trackpad.  Don't know how it got there, but I don't baby my stuff.  Also the keyboard has the black paint rubbing/chipped off the "D" and left "Alt" (don't know why that one!) keys.

For some things, I would probably be using a mouse (I know I'll need one for gaming), so I'm not terribly worried about the trackpad. Everything else on it seems good from what I've read, but the price, while great for what it is, is a bit high for me, as much as I want it. I'll probably go for it anyways, as the price for the specs is great.

post #7622 of 7635

Hey all, I have been having an issue with my external USB 3 drive in a Rosewill enclosure where if I start transferring a bunch of data to or from the drive, it will disconnect, sometimes taking my other external USB 3 hard drive with it. I'm not really sure where to start with troubleshooting. I've heard changing around USB 3 drivers, or tweaking the registry so that inactive drives never disconnect/spin down (don't really wanna do that) but I also have the sneaking suspicion that it's the drive enclosure itself.

Anyone have experience with a similar problem and how they solved it?

post #7623 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by mechgamer123 View Post

Hey all, I have been having an issue with my external USB 3 drive in a Rosewill enclosure where if I start transferring a bunch of data to or from the drive, it will disconnect, sometimes taking my other external USB 3 hard drive with it. I'm not really sure where to start with troubleshooting. I've heard changing around USB 3 drivers, or tweaking the registry so that inactive drives never disconnect/spin down (don't really wanna do that) but I also have the sneaking suspicion that it's the drive enclosure itself.
Anyone have experience with a similar problem and how they solved it?

Maybe try some transfers with USB 2 and see if they em work first?
post #7624 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonutDeflector View Post
 
Maybe try some transfers with USB 2 and see if they em work first?

Huh, looks like so far (90% of the way through the transfer) everything is going well. That makes me wonder, could it be the driver? Or maybe the ports I have the drives connected to are some third party controller that keeps crapping out?

post #7625 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by mechgamer123 View Post

Huh, looks like so far (90% of the way through the transfer) everything is going well. That makes me wonder, could it be the driver? Or maybe the ports I have the drives connected to are some third party controller that keeps crapping out?

I have some problems w/ USB 3.0. Must be the controller?
post #7626 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonutDeflector View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mechgamer123 View Post

Huh, looks like so far (90% of the way through the transfer) everything is going well. That makes me wonder, could it be the driver? Or maybe the ports I have the drives connected to are some third party controller that keeps crapping out?

I have some problems w/ USB 3.0. Must be the controller?

That's what I'm thinking. Apparently my ASROCK Z77 Extreme6 uses two different USB 3 controllers depending on the ports. I switched the drives to another pair of ports and it has yet to do any disconnects, so I'm guessing it's something either with the controller getting overloaded or the drivers being botched. *shrug*

post #7627 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRapz View Post
 

So I don't quite have any other forums to ask this at, and everyone here seems very knowledgeable and helpful: Can anyone recommend me a laptop under $700?

 

Requirements, in order of importance:

  • $700 max, prefer more around $600/$650
  • Windows 8/8.1
  • 14" Screen or less
  • 4GB of RAM at least (6 or 8GB preferred)
  • 4th+ Gen Intel Processor, i5 preferred, i3 is okay
  • Full HD Screen, 1080p
  • Battery life, 5+ hours at least
  • Thin and light as possible; no thicker than one inch, no more than 5lbs
  • SSHD preferred, would really rather have it than a standard spinning HD
  • 2 in 1, really like these, but specs always seem to be low
  • Optical drive is good to have, but unneeded if specs are good

 

I've been searching around, and the only one that seems to hit all the marks is the Lenovo Y40, the cheapest option they have. It is a bit costly at ~$700-720, but I don't know if I can find anything with those specs for any cheaper. It has a Core i5, 1TB HD, 8GB RAM, 1080p 14" screen. Another one that's attractive is the Yoga 2 13; I love the physical specs, (.6" thin, light, and a 2 in 1), but internally, it only has an i3 (not terrible), 4GB of RAM, 500GB + 8GB SSHD, 1080p 13.3" screen. Again, it's a bit costly at $700; I love the design though, and the internal specs aren't terrible. I'll be using this laptop for, WoW, document editing, music recording, editing, and managing, as well as programming, right now simple stuff, but in a year or two probably much more complex stuff. It has to last me a few years, so durability is a concern. I've always admired Lenovo's build quality for the price, but would consider other options. If anyone has any recommendations at all, please post them; any response is helpful. Thank you for taking the time to read and for any responses.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834314807

 

About 0.6lbs heavier than you requested.

 

I'll try to look for something better because I'm quite sure there are better options.

 

Anybody else who is helping, refer to this benchmark list to choose a GPU:

 

http://www.notebookcheck.net/Computer-Games-on-Laptop-Graphic-Cards.13849.0.html

 

World of Warcraft is on there. Restrict it to single GPUs only. Keep in mind you want to look at the last column only because, although it's Ultra settings, it's the only 1920x1080 res test on there.

 

This is quite the tricky price to work with.


Edited by HybridCore - 1/24/15 at 8:02pm
post #7628 of 7635
When do you guys think DDR-4 will become mainstream?
post #7629 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonutDeflector View Post

When do you guys think DDR-4 will become mainstream?

2-3 years. Don't get your hopes up.

 

DDR4 was only just introduced to Haswell-E (enthusiast, not consumer line) and, from Wikipedia, will stay on the LGA2011 socket with Broadwell. We won't be seeing it on desktop until Skylake but Skylake will support both DDR3 and DDR4 so DDR3 won't be dead yet. Cannonlake we're unsure of whether or not they will abandon DDR3 completely and jump to DDR4 since it's going to be a tick so nothing much more than a die shrink (recent ticks have been slightly more than die shrinks though).

 

So yeah, nothing until 2017-2018. Prices will be stupidly high for the first few years when Skylake comes out. It'll probably take awhile for DDR4 prices to drop. I'd say it'll finally be affordable late 2018-2019 depending on how things go.

post #7630 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834314807

About 0.6lbs heavier than you requested.

I'll try to look for something better because I'm quite sure there are better options.

Anybody else who is helping, refer to this benchmark list to choose a GPU:

http://www.notebookcheck.net/Computer-Games-on-Laptop-Graphic-Cards.13849.0.html

World of Warcraft is on there. Restrict it to single GPUs only. Keep in mind you want to look at the last column only because, although it's Ultra settings, it's the only 1920x1080 res test on there.

This is quite the tricky price to work with.

It is; I've been searching for a couple months now. That Acer has pretty good specs for the price, and I like that is has a 5th gen i5, but I can't do the 15.6"; to me, there's quite a bit of difference in portability between a full-sized laptop and a 14". That's the tricky part, finding something in 14" or less with the specs I listed. Fortunately, it looks like I'll be getting the Lenovo Y40, 8GB RAM, AMD Radeon R9 M275 2GB, Core i7-4510U, 1TB+8GB SSHD, 1080p 14" screen, and it's less than an inch thin. Pretty much exactly what I want, but I'll have to buy a separate optical drive, which is fine. Pretty sure I've settled on this, as it hits all the marks, but thanks to everyone for your help. (And I don't know what this big blueish box is on the bottom.)

 
 
post #7631 of 7635
Honest question, is DDR4 actually worth anything? I don't know if maybe faster RAM made some big improvements on 2011 v3, but on the fact of USB 3, I have a **** ton of trouble with it, I have a card reader that should read at 90mb/s, with a matching card, the Samsung 64GB MicroSD Pro (90 down/80 up), and in 4 USB 3 ports, it runs at 35mb/s and the read is like 30mb/s, and on 2 others 45 and and 40, which is exactly half of what it should be. Do you guys have any idea on how to get this to the 90/80?
post #7632 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopanthersgo1 View Post

Honest question, is DDR4 actually worth anything? I don't know if maybe faster RAM made some big improvements on 2011 v3, but on the fact of USB 3, I have a **** ton of trouble with it, I have a card reader that should read at 90mb/s, with a matching card, the Samsung 64GB MicroSD Pro (90 down/80 up), and in 4 USB 3 ports, it runs at 35mb/s and the read is like 30mb/s, and on 2 others 45 and and 40, which is exactly half of what it should be. Do you guys have any idea on how to get this to the 90/80?

For mobile, possibly due to the lower power consumption (relatively minor, but hey, more battery life). For RAMDisks and graphics cards that use shared memory (basically whatever your CPU uses outside of its built in cache) it'll be good.

 

The main draw is higher memory density, so larger sticks of RAM.

post #7633 of 7635
Quote:
Originally Posted by gopanthersgo1 View Post

Honest question, is DDR4 actually worth anything? I don't know if maybe faster RAM made some big improvements on 2011 v3, but on the fact of USB 3, I have a **** ton of trouble with it, I have a card reader that should read at 90mb/s, with a matching card, the Samsung 64GB MicroSD Pro (90 down/80 up), and in 4 USB 3 ports, it runs at 35mb/s and the read is like 30mb/s, and on 2 others 45 and and 40, which is exactly half of what it should be. Do you guys have any idea on how to get this to the 90/80?

Check and make sure you are using the USB 3.0 ports that actually come off the ICH (sounds like the 2 running at 45/40 are the ones).  You may need to bust out your manual/download a copy (I know...we're mostly men and don't read manuals) to confirm.  Make sure your drivers are up to date.  Sacrifice a young goat like we used to do back in the days of SCSI....whatever works.

post #7634 of 7635

I keep on getting drawn back to experimenting with computer cases. This time around is based off of Valve's own Steam Machine Prototype. The goal is around 7L (Valve's prototype is 7.1L) although this is a bit tricky because Valve did some things to keep the size down.

 

1. They shortened the rear I/O brackets so it wouldn't protrude into the motherboard I/O cutout area. They cut theirs a bit shorter than I did in here but mine is still outside of the cutout zone and 0.100 surrounding clearance zone.

2. They somehow sourced 90 degree 6-pin and 8-pin power connectors which you normally cannot buy from most cable sleeving stores (MDPC-X, what used to be Lutr0 Customs but is now Mainframecustoms, etc.). 90 degree might be doable but this design needs a 270 degree one because, unlike Valve which routed the cables under the GPU, I need to go over the GPU because I tried to fit in more hard drives in another sport.

 

Either of these would cause the width of the case to increase if I stuck to standards/commonly found parts.

 

 

Above the GPU there is currently room for three 2.5" HDDs, all of 15.00mm height. 17.00 and 19.05mm drives might be a stretch (also no consumer drives are of that height IIRC).

 

Currently I'm having trouble with HDD connector placement. Most of your commonly found flat cables would be tricky to work with in this case and would require for people to buy the thin + round custom cables Silverstone sells. I might just reduce the number of hard drives to 2 and then rotate the drives 90 degrees. This will provide a bit more room to work with the SATA cables but everything is still very tricky. The Molex power connectors will have trouble not being bent/broken.

 

Also remember I need to add in a 3-prong (CP13) power extension from the SFX PSU to the back of the case.


Edited by HybridCore - Today at 2:46 pm
post #7635 of 7635
I was gonna say you could cut down the HDD size to 2. Looks alright so far my friend.
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