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post #5731 of 9059
Quote:
Originally Posted by rovopio View Post
 

 

alright thank you very very much for the link. i just finish reading it. and after i was finish reading it, i saw this follow-up post. is it bad that this was exactly what i think after reading the given link.

after understanding the explanation of async vs sync, i feel that i dont think that average music listener (not hardcore hobby-ist) would be able to differentiate between normal usb and async usb technology...

 

is it bad that i think that way?

 

btw, im building my second pc at the moment. on my first pc, i tried plugging in my headphone directly without dac/amp from the back and try it from the front case also. if i dont pay attention to it, i barely hear any differences between the two.

 

is that also your experience...?

 

maybe there are some more interference connecting it in the front case plug but, i think commonly speaking, it's pretty indiscernible.

I don't think it's bad at all. It's something that makes a difference you would basically never hear.

 

Even a hardcore hobbyist will probably not be able to hear the difference between asynchronous and synchronous (along with the adaptive "hybrid"). If they do, it's probably a placebo unless what they were using as a synchronous reference was that horrendously bad (never heard of that before).

 

So no, if you can't hear it, it shouldn't matter to you.

 

My experience is that there's a bit more grain, presumably from interference. If I plug my headphones into the front panel connectors of my case (so still using onboard audio), I have a grainy, fuzzy sound when there's no music playing (so what some people call the background is not completely free of noise in this case). If I plug it into the back of my case, I still get grain but less (so a cleaner background).

 

It's something that's noticeable if you pay attention to it (it bothers me slightly so I have my headphones connected to the back since I'm currently deprived of audio gear).

post #5732 of 9059
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
It's something that's noticeable if you pay attention to it (it bothers me slightly so I have my headphones connected to the back since I'm currently deprived of audio gear).

 

by deprived of audio gear do you mean you plug your headphones direct?

 

that's what im doing right now. and on my pc, im totally okay with it. but on my laptop, i guess it has a very bad DAC. my laptop is an entry-level dell laptop. it's horrendous.

 

the sound has reverbs and echoes and sounds robotic. though, when i plugged in the headphone / portable speaker jack to the laptop, i get to choose different modes (headphone / skullcandy headphone / speaker / dell speaker / line in / mic).

 

when i choose headphone / skullcandy headphone it's horrendouse, when i choose speaker, it's somewhat decent. and that's why im in the market for a DAC. >_<.

 

i  was considering fiio e17 for $167 which is right up my shoestring budget of $150. however, i once owned fiio e07k for around 2 weeks, and i found when i plugged that in to my old grado headphone, the sound doesn't change the slightest, it's just louder, and i was pretty disappointed and ended up selling it. and that's why i was hesitant on buying another fiio.

 

it could also be user error because i set the gain on 0db and did not use treble and bass eq at all. and at that time i didnt understand the slightest what's warm / dark / bright even means...

 

so anw... what headphone are you using atm..? are you satisfied with it's performance plugging in direct...?

hv you ever buy fiio? do you think i would be satisfied if i buy fiio again? haha :D

 

i want aune t1 but buying it i hv to import and it'll cost ~$270-ish huhu :D

post #5733 of 9059
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
 

 

 

Even a hardcore hobbyist will probably not be able to hear the difference between asynchronous and synchronous (along with the adaptive "hybrid"). If they do, it's probably a placebo unless what they were using as a synchronous reference was that horrendously bad (never heard of that before).

 

 

Do note additionaly that the stuff we are mentioning, rather than something that changes or adds something to the music or signal, is more or less something for 'purity' purposes.

 

You can most likely do stress tests and 'hear' the difference and write reviews on it, but in terms of sonically out of the box. There shouldn't be.

 

Say you don't run your applications in exclusive mode for audio, and that your volume bar for the DAC in question is set to 5% and that at the same time, a few video games with multi-channel sound are running in the foreground in windowed mode (and thus not exclusive), along with a BD movie playing along with 4+ HDD's and other storage mediums plugged in and actively performing a benchmark stress test and read and write, along with Youtube videos and all being played.

 

This situatiion I made up was to illustrate stress on multiple applications on the Southbridge (handles USB), and applications taking usage of the soundchip through Windows and not exclusively, Windows Vista and above having 32bit floating point upsampling, and the 5% volume being something that will reduce bit depth of the signal (if it is a DAC that is being changed).

 

This situation should thus be one in where asynch USB may matter in hearing audio.

 

But this situation more or less won't happen....so yeah, screw it.

post #5734 of 9059
Quote:
Originally Posted by rovopio View Post
 

 

by deprived of audio gear do you mean you plug your headphones direct?

 

that's what im doing right now. and on my pc, im totally okay with it. but on my laptop, i guess it has a very bad DAC. my laptop is an entry-level dell laptop. it's horrendous.

 

the sound has reverbs and echoes and sounds robotic. though, when i plugged in the headphone / portable speaker jack to the laptop, i get to choose different modes (headphone / skullcandy headphone / speaker / dell speaker / line in / mic).

 

when i choose headphone / skullcandy headphone it's horrendouse, when i choose speaker, it's somewhat decent. and that's why im in the market for a DAC. >_<.

 

i  was considering fiio e17 for $167 which is right up my shoestring budget of $150. however, i once owned fiio e07k for around 2 weeks, and i found when i plugged that in to my old grado headphone, the sound doesn't change the slightest, it's just louder, and i was pretty disappointed and ended up selling it. and that's why i was hesitant on buying another fiio.

 

it could also be user error because i set the gain on 0db and did not use treble and bass eq at all. and at that time i didnt understand the slightest what's warm / dark / bright even means...

 

so anw... what headphone are you using atm..? are you satisfied with it's performance plugging in direct...?

hv you ever buy fiio? do you think i would be satisfied if i buy fiio again? haha :D

 

i want aune t1 but buying it i hv to import and it'll cost ~$270-ish huhu :D

Yeah, I don't really own anything. Some friends in another thread donated what I have right now. :o Currently have a dying pair of MH1Cs and another pair of sonys, both donated by friends.

post #5735 of 9059
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
 

Yeah, I don't really own anything. Some friends in another thread donated what I have right now. :o Currently have a dying pair of MH1Cs and another pair of sonys, both donated by friends.

 

well i dont hv a lot of headphone myself so in a way, you're cool too :D

 

btw in pc topic, i REALLY like the r9 290 vapor-x sapphire looks, too bad its like what 500 euro or smthn heheh

post #5736 of 9059

Just wish coolers like that were blower styled instead of top-down styled since top-down blows out hot air EVERYWHERE in your case.

post #5737 of 9059
Quote:
Originally Posted by rovopio View Post

 

well i dont hv a lot of headphone myself so in a way, you're cool too :D

 

btw in pc topic, i REALLY like the r9 290 vapor-x sapphire looks, too bad its like what 500 euro or smthn heheh

 

Cogitoergosam is listed on the first page as bringing theirs.

post #5738 of 9059

Hey guys,

     It's been a while since I was last here, but I'm gonna get to the chase: I've got a problem, and a new gaming rig. Okay, well, my sis has a new gaming rig, but I just want you guys to tell me if it was a good idea. My dad and I had to make the choices quick since we're getting them shipped to the Philippines in two weeks, so here you go:

 

  • MoBo: ASRock Fatal1ty B85 Killer
  • CPU: Xeon E1230-V3 (supposed to be Haswell-gen, but not sure)
  • GPU: Galaxy GTX770 2GB
  • RAM: Kingston HyperX LE 8GB*2 (memory is getting expensive these days)
  • HDD: Seagate SSHD 2TB
  • SSD: ADATA SX900 256GB
  • Fan: Deep Cool Ice Matrix 400
  • Case: Thermaltake Urban S31 (sure, it's a monolith, but pretty damn awesome. I mean, seriously, six HDD compartments!)
  • PSU: Sama Power Saver 450W

 

     The Galaxy video card's manual states that the rig requires a minimum of 600W of power. IMO, that's kinda crazy. The rig uses only one 1080p monitor, so there. Is the setup any good?

 

     Also, I've been having problems doing a clean install with my dad's PC (replaced the godawful case, though :p). I have an ASRock B75 Pro3 motherboard and initial installations were buttery-smooth, until I tried installing the Intel USB 3.0 drivers. Somehow, after installation the computer BSODs out on me (forgot to get the error code as it flashed really quickly), and when it rebooted, the computer ran CHKDSK on my C drive. After that (which wasn't long), I fired up the PC, and the USB 3.0 drivers were still not working.

 

     This is the second time this has happened, and I'm not willing to do another clean install to start over. Reading the driver's readme file, it says that it is compatible with:

  • 3rd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) Processor Family
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i3 processor
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 processor
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 vPro(TM) processor
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 processor
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 vPro(TM) processor
  • Intel(R) 7 Series/C216 Chipset Family (Panther Point PCH)

 

     My processor is an Intel Xeon E1230-V2, so I'm unsure if this driver will work.  Thanks in advance for any help!

post #5739 of 9059

you might want to consider changing the psu to something else and higher wattage. 550 watt at least from a well known brand

post #5740 of 9059
Originally Posted by thatBeatsguy View Post
 

Hey guys,

     It's been a while since I was last here, but I'm gonna get to the chase: I've got a problem, and a new gaming rig. Okay, well, my sis has a new gaming rig, but I just want you guys to tell me if it was a good idea. My dad and I had to make the choices quick since we're getting them shipped to the Philippines in two weeks, so here you go:

 

Snip

 

Buy a decent power supply, 500W will easily be enough.

 

Have you tried updating your bios on the motherboard?

post #5741 of 9059
Quote:
Originally Posted by rovopio View Post
 

you might want to consider changing the psu to something else and higher wattage. 550 watt at least from a well known brand


Well, the PSU's brand is, in fact, well-respected and well-known out here in this country with over 1 billion people. But what does higher or lower wattage do to the PC? Will higher wattages mean they'll tear up the electricity bills?

Also, anyone else got anything on my USB 3.0 problem? My sister's bugging me to play Minecraft with her, and my dad's bugging me to get the downloads up and running...

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadlylover View Post
 

 

Buy a decent power supply, 500W will easily be enough.

 

Have you tried updating your bios on the motherboard?

Hmm...no, not yet. Well, I've never tried this before, but there's a first time for everything, right? I just hope this doesn't brick my computer...


Edited by thatBeatsguy - 6/3/14 at 8:17pm
post #5742 of 9059

I've never heard that PSU company. Can you find the OEM and the OEM model number?

post #5743 of 9059
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatBeatsguy View Post
 

Hey guys,

     It's been a while since I was last here, but I'm gonna get to the chase: I've got a problem, and a new gaming rig. Okay, well, my sis has a new gaming rig, but I just want you guys to tell me if it was a good idea. My dad and I had to make the choices quick since we're getting them shipped to the Philippines in two weeks, so here you go:

 

  • MoBo: ASRock Fatal1ty B85 Killer
  • CPU: Xeon E1230-V3 (supposed to be Haswell-gen, but not sure)
  • GPU: Galaxy GTX770 2GB
  • RAM: Kingston HyperX LE 8GB*2 (memory is getting expensive these days)
  • HDD: Seagate SSHD 2TB
  • SSD: ADATA SX900 256GB
  • Fan: Deep Cool Ice Matrix 400
  • Case:
  •  
  • (sure, it's a monolith, but pretty damn awesome. I mean, seriously, six HDD compartments!)
  • PSU: Sama Power Saver 450W

 

     The Galaxy video card's manual states that the rig requires a minimum of 600W of power. IMO, that's kinda crazy. The rig uses only one 1080p monitor, so there. Is the setup any good?

 

     Also, I've been having problems doing a clean install with my dad's PC (replaced the godawful case, though :p). I have an ASRock B75 Pro3 motherboard and initial installations were buttery-smooth, until I tried installing the Intel USB 3.0 drivers. Somehow, after installation the computer BSODs out on me (forgot to get the error code as it flashed really quickly), and when it rebooted, the computer ran CHKDSK on my C drive. After that (which wasn't long), I fired up the PC, and the USB 3.0 drivers were still not working.

 

     This is the second time this has happened, and I'm not willing to do another clean install to start over. Reading the driver's readme file, it says that it is compatible with:

  • 3rd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) Processor Family
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i3 processor
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 processor
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i5 vPro(TM) processor
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 processor
  • 2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 vPro(TM) processor
  • Intel(R) 7 Series/C216 Chipset Family (Panther Point PCH)

 

     My processor is an Intel Xeon E1230-V2, so I'm unsure if this driver will work.  Thanks in advance for any help!

Why that CPU? I know some Xeon chips are known for being great finds as they can have similar i7 performance...but what is the need for it...besides just gaming?

 

You need to put prices on this stuff.......

 

That motherboard looks less than optimal. There are newer Asrocks with better chipsets in the same price range.

 

The GPU looks fine..but again, price.

 

Depending on price, there are better and faster SSD's in that price range. I personally bought a 240GB Seagate 600 for $89.

 

Check out this list for heatsinks

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2655&page=5

 

But where are you getting this heatsink from? At the $45 I find it at...you can get a much better one.

 

What do you need in a case? Many support 6 HDD's....not to mention, you currently have one HDD in cart and one SSD.......cool that that case can hold 6...but..yeah. AT $99, you can get some much better cases from NZXT or even go onto a Corsair, or even some of them Bitfenix or Fractals.

 

Also that PSU........NO..... Crap PSU and 450W isn't enough. If it was a highly efficent PSU that was highly reviewed and loved by all, then yes. 450W should be more than enough for your system at load as long as you don't drop 6 HDD's and uber fans in there. (Granting the rails are enough). But a cheap no-name PSU worth the minimum price? NO.

 

For $50, get a Seasonic rebrand from Antec or XFX or go for some Corsairs.

 

A stanard 770 will draw 250W at max from reviews

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-770-gk104-review,3519-25.html

This is about 19A

 

 

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/B75%20Pro3/?cat=CPU

That mobo is compatible with that CPU on bios version 1.20. That is the smallest value on the page, and so it is most likely compatible.

 

The driver issue could be anywhere.

post #5744 of 9059
Originally Posted by thatBeatsguy View Post


Well, the PSU's brand is, in fact, well-respected and well-known out here in this country with over 1 billion people. But what does higher or lower wattage do to the PC? Will higher wattages mean they'll tear up the electricity bills?

Also, anyone else got anything on my USB 3.0 problem? My sister's bugging me to play Minecraft with her, and my dad's bugging me to get the downloads up and running...

 

Hmm...no, not yet. Well, I've never tried this before, but there's a first time for everything, right? I just hope this doesn't brick my computer...

 

Upon a little research, that power supply "might" be good enough, that is, if its 34A rating on the +12v rail is to be believed.

 

Just follow the instructions and you'll be fine, just make sure you get the motherboard model correct. Try downloading the USB drivers if you're running them from the CD.

 

Right click 'Computer' on the start menu > Properties > Advanced system settings on the left > Advanced tab > hit settings on the startup and recovery section > Untick Automatically restart and make sure Kernel memory dump is selected under write debugging information.

 

You'll find your dumps on C drive > Windows > Minidump, you can then analyse them with Windows debugging tools if you want to find what might have caused the BSOD.

post #5745 of 9059
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thatBeatsguy View Post
 


Well, the PSU's brand is, in fact, well-respected and well-known out here in this country with over 1 billion people. But what does higher or lower wattage do to the PC? Will higher wattages mean they'll tear up the electricity bills?

Also, anyone else got anything on my USB 3.0 problem? My sister's bugging me to play Minecraft with her, and my dad's bugging me to get the downloads up and running...

 

 

Hmm...no, not yet. Well, I've never tried this before, but there's a first time for everything, right? I just hope this doesn't brick my computer...

It's your call....but I'd still recommend you buy from a more legit company that Western people buy from....why? Because I am biased an no nothing about indigenous Chinese tech buys.

 

It is your call.

 

A good PSU, no matter if it is 750W capable or 400W, if it is made properly, will not draw more power when powering the same parts...a piss poor one? Sure.

 

Try southbridge drivers.

 

Sometimes bios updates...can fix problems

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