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PC Enthusiast-Fi (PC Gaming/Hardware/Software/Overclocking) - Page 319

post #4771 of 6652
Thread Starter 

First two are here 

post #4772 of 6652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yazen View Post

1 - Go to your local Goodwill/Thrift
2 - Find the aging PC desktop section
3 - Grab a nice, heavy, thick steel tower
4 - Replace Internals
5 - Profit?
You know the RVZ is a slim mini-ITX right? Look it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yazen View Post

Thought he was a teenager lol.
Waiting for my company to write off our old server so I can get the fancy super ATX case!  

Dell's $15,000 solution is replacing it next week
Indeed I am...
post #4773 of 6652
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibob4tacoz View Post


You know the RVZ is a slim mini-ITX right? Look it up.
Indeed I am...


Lenovo desktops come in a small form factor:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-10-IBM-ThinkCentre-M57e-Win7-160GB-Intel-Pentium-Dual-Core-2GB-Desktop-/331074218384?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

 

Usually $10-$50 depending on shop.  Remove the internals and use them for a NAS.  Keep the case..  Profit? XD

They are really thick, I think I have one in my warehouse if you want haha

 

EDIT:  Thick as in quality, built really well :S

If I were not so lazy, I would probably swap out of my Node 304.  They just do not make chassis right anymore (for a reasonable price)


Edited by Yazen - 2/21/14 at 3:18pm
post #4774 of 6652
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yazen View Post


Lenovo desktops come in a small form factor:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-10-IBM-ThinkCentre-M57e-Win7-160GB-Intel-Pentium-Dual-Core-2GB-Desktop-/331074218384?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

Usually $10-$50 depending on shop.  Remove the internals and use them for a NAS.  Keep the case..  Profit? XD
They are really thick, I think I have one in my warehouse if you want haha

EDIT:  Thick as in quality, built really well :S
If I were not so lazy, I would probably swap out of my Node 304.  They just do not make chassis right anymore (for a reasonable price)
No. Just no.
post #4775 of 6652
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibob4tacoz View Post


No. Just no.

You say no now...But maybe one day you will want a real case :devil_face: (Have not seen anyone use this emoticon before)

post #4776 of 6652

Here's a list of inventory that would be heading toward my direction next week.

 

1 x Cisco 2691 router with VPN modules

2 x Cisco 2811 routers

1 x Cisco 1841 router

Each router will have dual WIC-1T modules for inter-vlan/inter-routing with each other in a loop and advanced router on a stick configurations in conjunction with the switches below:

 

1 x Cisco 3550 switch

2 x Cisco 2950WS switches

1 x Cisco 3000 switch

 

Add in a crap load of crossover, straight-through and few roll over cables. (Not forgetting 6 pairs of DTE/DCE terminated sreial cables to connect the routers.

 

And finally score a cheap deal on one of these. Don't know what I'm going to do with it yet. 14 blades each as an individual workstation. 2 x 1300watt PSU's and centralized redundant network cable connector hot swappable modules.

 

 

Just a under a K worth of networking equipment. Thank god I already have 6 servers present to configuring a small LAN setup with said equipment so I can work comfortably with the schit before I head for my CCNA certification sometime later this year.

 

Also have half a bottle of xo cognac in me and currently try to use a DMM to measure the AC in my house as it tripped the breaker.


Edited by DefQon - 2/22/14 at 2:05am
post #4777 of 6652
Originally Posted by DefQon View Post
 

Also have half a bottle of xo cognac in me and currently try to use a DMM to measure the AC in my house as it tripped the breaker.

 

I don't think knowing the AC line voltages will help, but if you're measuring current draw, you really should use a power meter as it's safer to use. I'm guessing some dodgy wiring or some appliance is tripping the safety on the RCD's, unless you're overloading a circuit.

 

I hope to god you aren't using a cheapy $10 meter to measure AC. :p 

post #4778 of 6652
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadlylover View Post
 

 

I don't think knowing the AC line voltages will help, but if you're measuring current draw, you really should use a power meter as it's safer to use. I'm guessing some dodgy wiring or some appliance is tripping the safety on the RCD's, unless you're overloading a circuit.

 

I hope to god you aren't using a cheapy $10 meter to measure AC. :p 

It's a $9.95 one from Tandy. Can't find my Fluke 108D.

post #4779 of 6652
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadlylover View Post

I don't think knowing the AC line voltages will help, but if you're measuring current draw, you really should use a power meter as it's safer to use. I'm guessing some dodgy wiring or some appliance is tripping the safety on the RCD's, unless you're overloading a circuit.

I hope to god you aren't using a cheapy $10 meter to measure AC. tongue.gif  
Much electric
Very power
So wires
post #4780 of 6652
Thread Starter 

I remember seeing this picture before, and CM just posted it.

 

Thought I would share the poor man's liquid cooling

 

 

 

YO DAWG!

post #4781 of 6652
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowei006 View Post

 

YO DAWG!

Sup Dawg

_________

 

Need help here :S
 

I have a Xbox 360 + PC and I want them both to connect to my 1440p monitor with a single input.  I do not need to share any peripherals, and the Xbox 360 supposedly works with a HDMI>DVI cable without any scalers/etc.

 

What is the cheapest way to do this?

post #4782 of 6652
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yazen View Post
 

Sup Dawg

_________

 

Need help here :S
 

I have a Xbox 360 + PC and I want them both to connect to my 1440p monitor with a single input.  I do not need to share any peripherals, and the Xbox 360 supposedly works with a HDMI>DVI cable without any scalers/etc.

 

What is the cheapest way to do this?

Through a video switch?

 

If your monitor supports multiple inputs, its easier to plug both PC and Xbox 360 into two different inputs and just switch that way.

post #4783 of 6652
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowei006 View Post
 

Through a video switch?

 

If your monitor supports multiple inputs, its easier to plug both PC and Xbox 360 into two different inputs and just switch that way.


If I had multiple inputs I would not be in this mess haha.

KVM switches are expensive, and I have not even seen one that would support 1440p..

 

I was thinking this was going to be an easy fix, but I am stumped >.>

post #4784 of 6652
Originally Posted by Yazen View Post


If I had multiple inputs I would not be in this mess haha.

KVM switches are expensive, and I have not even seen one that would support 1440p..

 

I was thinking this was going to be an easy fix, but I am stumped >.>

 

I don't think there is an easy fix unfortunately, that's the only drawback of the korean 1440p monitors. I don't think they have scalers either, so you should double check if your Xbox360 works with them first.

 

I've got not idea why KVM switches cost over $100, but you'll need one that's dual link DVI.

post #4785 of 6652
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadlylover View Post
 

 

I don't think there is an easy fix unfortunately, that's the only drawback of the korean 1440p monitors. I don't think they have scalers either, so you should double check if your Xbox360 works with them first.

 

I've got not idea why KVM switches cost over $100, but you'll need one that's dual link DVI.


AFAIK it scales, tested with monitor based scaling enabled/GPU scaling off.

I have seen a few supported switches, but none push 1440p.  They are also over $100, which logically makes 0 sense to me.

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