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post #4336 of 6598
Just checking, it's normal for a new cooler to read really high temperatures for the first day or so of usage right? I just got my new cooler in, put on IntelBurntest and it maxed out at about 90C, the stock cooler maxed around 85C. Idle temps with both coolers were 30C. I'm really hoping I didn't screw up the install. Lancool screwed up on this case and the CPU cutout is in the wrong spot so you have to remove everything to put in a new cooler. I spent the last 7 hours redoing pretty much everything and then dealing with my motherboard being finicky because I didn't use exactly the same SATA plugs.
post #4337 of 6598
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MohawkUS View Post

Just checking, it's normal for a new cooler to read really high temperatures for the first day or so of usage right? I just got my new cooler in, put on IntelBurntest and it maxed out at about 90C, the stock cooler maxed around 85C. Idle temps with both coolers were 30C. I'm really hoping I didn't screw up the install. Lancool screwed up on this case and the CPU cutout is in the wrong spot so you have to remove everything to put in a new cooler. I spent the last 7 hours redoing pretty much everything and then dealing with my motherboard being finicky because I didn't use exactly the same SATA plugs.

Not always. There are some cases of breaking in the product and new thermal compound you just put on it. 

 

Don't push it too hard for a few days or just leave it running doing some semi-hard stuff and then check a few days later (typically this is enough) to see if it still has problems. 

 

If it does...well....

post #4338 of 6598
Quote:
Originally Posted by bowei006 View Post
 

Not always. There are some cases of breaking in the product and new thermal compound you just put on it. 

 

Don't push it too hard for a few days or just leave it running doing some semi-hard stuff and then check a few days later (typically this is enough) to see if it still has problems. 

 

If it does...well....

Yea I put on my new Air cooler and instantly I got a 10c drop in both load and idle temps

 

although I have re applied thermal a good 7-8 times on my rig, I redo the GPu about once every 4 months and the cpu once every 6, had the machine for a little over 2 years so I have found what works for me

 

still I hope it works out, if not write the company a etter, get a new unit or a refund 

post #4339 of 6598
My Leatherman got here in the mail today! biggrin.gif
post #4340 of 6598
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibob4tacoz View Post

My Leatherman got here in the mail today! biggrin.gif

Nice. I need one.

post #4341 of 6598
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post

Nice. I need one.
How much you willing to spend?
post #4342 of 6598

For those of you talking about how hard it is to hit anything in War Thunder's simulation mode, don't feel too bad about it; ANY sufficiently realistic flight sim is like that.

 

You have to contend with the handling characteristics of your plane alongside realistic ballistics. Getting close is key if you want a guns kill; they say that it wasn't unheard of for World War I pilots to have to clean the blood of their victims off their windshields and that the basic tactic is to try and ram your target, firing your guns when you're about to collide, and then change directions at the last moment so you don't actually crash.

 

Having a good-quality flight stick helps (and playing most of these with only keyboard and mouse is an instant death sentence anyway because you DON'T have aim-to-fly Freelancer/Dark Star One/War Thunder arcade mode controls to simplify things for you), but that alone won't make you an instant ace. You have to get a feel for how the planes handle so you don't hamfist yourself into a stall, spin or other nasty departure, alongside flying to your strengths and the enemy's weaknesses (in other words, knowing plane matchups, like which ones are turn-fighters and which are boom-and-zoom energy fighters). That takes time and practice, lots of it.

 

I haven't played War Thunder specifically, but I dabble in Rise of Flight and IL-2 Sturmovik every now and then with all the realistic handling options turned on. I still don't consider myself a good pilot by any means (even if I only fly against AI that is very likely cheating), but I get a little better each time just throwing myself into quick dogfights.

 

Modern flight sims like Falcon BMS and DCS World (well, except the P-51D module in the latter) present a different set of challenges; handling the plane isn't nearly as difficult as employing your sensors and weapons properly, alongside knowing how to defeat missiles that are launched well outside of your visual range. It makes for a lot of complexity compared to older, simpler aircraft, even though you'd have to actually work yourself into a stall or spin while yanking hard on the stick.

post #4343 of 6598
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibob4tacoz View Post


How much you willing to spend?

15-30 USD if it's good. I work with sleeving occasionally and it's nice for screws that are stuck.

 

btw, I hate phillips head screws. Torx, hex, square, etc. are much better IMO.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by NamelessPFG View Post
 

For those of you talking about how hard it is to hit anything in War Thunder's simulation mode, don't feel too bad about it; ANY sufficiently realistic flight sim is like that.

 

You have to contend with the handling characteristics of your plane alongside realistic ballistics. Getting close is key if you want a guns kill; they say that it wasn't unheard of for World War I pilots to have to clean the blood of their victims off their windshields and that the basic tactic is to try and ram your target, firing your guns when you're about to collide, and then change directions at the last moment so you don't actually crash.

 

Having a good-quality flight stick helps (and playing most of these with only keyboard and mouse is an instant death sentence anyway because you DON'T have aim-to-fly Freelancer/Dark Star One/War Thunder arcade mode controls to simplify things for you), but that alone won't make you an instant ace. You have to get a feel for how the planes handle so you don't hamfist yourself into a stall, spin or other nasty departure, alongside flying to your strengths and the enemy's weaknesses (in other words, knowing plane matchups, like which ones are turn-fighters and which are boom-and-zoom energy fighters). That takes time and practice, lots of it.

 

I haven't played War Thunder specifically, but I dabble in Rise of Flight and IL-2 Sturmovik every now and then with all the realistic handling options turned on. I still don't consider myself a good pilot by any means (even if I only fly against AI that is very likely cheating), but I get a little better each time just throwing myself into quick dogfights.

 

Modern flight sims like Falcon BMS and DCS World (well, except the P-51D module in the latter) present a different set of challenges; handling the plane isn't nearly as difficult as employing your sensors and weapons properly, alongside knowing how to defeat missiles that are launched well outside of your visual range. It makes for a lot of complexity compared to older, simpler aircraft, even though you'd have to actually work yourself into a stall or spin while yanking hard on the stick.

It's not that bad (that and I don't do Full Real/Simulator, only Realistic/Historical). I will land quite a few hits but I'm just terrible and finishing people off.

 

That and I just suck at using the Typhoon.

post #4344 of 6598

Unrelated, but for those looking for a new phone, check this out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380827328783?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

Optimus G - Unlocked - New - $150!

 

Could not resist.......  I'm like a zombie trying to infect everyone I come in contact with :(

post #4345 of 6598
Originally Posted by ibob4tacoz View Post

My Leatherman got here in the mail today! biggrin.gif

 

Very nice!

 
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post
 

15-30 USD if it's good. I work with sleeving occasionally and it's nice for screws that are stuck.

 

Good, don't splash out too much money for something in the 'higher end' range.

 

I have their TOTL Charge Ti, and I was promised the moon and the stars from reading reviews and such on other forums, but I was severely disappointed in the quality/fit and finish. It just screams cheap Chinese made junk unfortunately, and that's something you can't really ascertain from reviews.

 

That being said, it is certainly handy to have one around, but if I were to buy one again, I wouldn't go for the higher end models, I think they're poor value for money.

post #4346 of 6598
Quote:
Originally Posted by NamelessPFG View Post

It makes for a lot of complexity compared to older, simpler aircraft, even though you'd have to actually work yourself into a stall or spin while yanking hard on the stick.
^ Heheheh.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post

15-30 USD if it's good. I work with sleeving occasionally and it's nice for screws that are stuck.

btw, I hate phillips head screws. Torx, hex, square, etc. are much better IMO.

It's not that bad (that and I don't do Full Real/Simulator, only Realistic/Historical). I will land quite a few hits but I'm just terrible and finishing people off.

That and I just suck at using the Typhoon.
Yup, phillips screws were literally designed to slip, so you can be working ok something and completely strip out the recessed plus where your screwdriver slots in.
Recommendations: The Squirt ES4 (Small, "electrician's" MT w/ wire strippers), Wingman/Sidekick (I have the Wingman, not sure what the difference is between the S and the W; full-size). So yeah, these all are about $25-$30, so go ahead and check them out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadlylover View Post

Very nice!

Good, don't splash out too much money for something in the 'higher end' range.

I have their TOTL Charge Ti, and I was promised the moon and the stars from reading reviews and such on other forums, but I was severely disappointed in the quality/fit and finish. It just screams cheap Chinese made junk unfortunately, and that's something you can't really ascertain from reviews.

That being said, it is certainly handy to have one around, but if I were to buy one again, I wouldn't go for the higher end models, I think they're poor value for money.
I like my Wingman, though cheap, it still has a good weight to it, and seems pretty tight.
EDIT: I accidentally hit the "SUBMIT" button, the rest is above.
Edited by ibob4tacoz - 1/28/14 at 5:15am
post #4347 of 6598
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yazen View Post
 

Unrelated, but for those looking for a new phone, check this out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380827328783?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

Optimus G - Unlocked - New - $150!

 

Could not resist.......  I'm like a zombie trying to infect everyone I come in contact with :(

That's kinda scary... over 73 sold in an hour... jeeze I can never wrap my head around where these people get all these... units >.> 

 

my Local Parts store [not a chain] has like a CRAP ton of Stuff as well... always blows my mind how much product these serious merchants get there hands on 

post #4348 of 6598
HybridCore? Anyone there...?
post #4349 of 6598
Quote:
Originally Posted by ibob4tacoz View Post


^ Heheheh.
Yup, phillips screws were literally designed to slip, so you can be working ok something and completely strip out the recessed plus where your screwdriver slots in.
Recommendations: The Squirt ES4 (Small, "electrician's" MT w/ wire strippers), Wingman/Sidekick (I have the Wingman, not sure what the difference is between the S and the W; full-size). So yeah, these all are about $25-$30, so go ahead and check them out.

I can't remember if anybody sells hex key M3 or UNC 6-32 screws.

 

Nils/MDPC-X has them.

 

There are attachments for electric drills/screwdrivers that make it so you don't strip the threading with a screw through the use of teeth that slide past each other when past a certain pressure/torsion. Forgot what those were called.

post #4350 of 6598
Quote:
Originally Posted by HybridCore View Post

I can't remember if anybody sells hex key M3 or UNC 6-32 screws.

Nils/MDPC-X has them.

There are attachments for electric drills/screwdrivers that make it so you don't strip the threading with a screw through the use of teeth that slide past each other when past a certain pressure/torsion. Forgot what those were called.
When you mention that, I remember that Enermax owes me a new
HDD. 2 of their cheap POS mountings screws broke in half in 2 corners so I only have 2 screws holding my drive into place.
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