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DIY Woody Grado/Symphones Magnums - A build diary - Page 5

post #61 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rav View Post

 

 

It's not apparent from the photo, but the drivers are a bit more loose in these new ones than the purple set, but that's also because the purple warped a little after i drilled out the inside.  They are, however, both much better centralised.

 

 

 

 

Have you considered using foam insulation tape to make the drivers fit snug? Thats what I have in my Martin Custom Audio woodies and the drivers are very snug yet can be removed to be re-wired or modded etc.

 

This video shows using for installation (go to 1:40 to see taping/installing drivers): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9A6UwkQFTdg

post #62 of 127
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by parbaked View Post

Have you considered using foam insulation tape to make the drivers fit snug? Thats what I have in my Martin Custom Audio woodies and the drivers are very snug yet can be removed to be re-wired or modded etc.

 

This video shows using for installation (go to 1:40 to see taping/installing drivers): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9A6UwkQFTdg

Yeah, one or two layers of electrical tape will do the trick in the interim, the final solution i'm shooting for will be grub screws from the outside like on the HP1 nd PS1.

post #63 of 127
Thread Starter 

I think i worked out a better way of measuring out the holes for the mounting, by wrapping a strip of paper around the outside, cutting it to the lenght of the circumference, then folding it into 4 equal lenghts.  At the two quarter folds will be the gimbal mount holes, and the half way fold is the cable exit.  I took my sweet time measuring and double checking on this set, plus looking at my RS1s to see that the mount holes aren't exactly half way along the lengh of the cup, rather slightly closer to the ear.  Either way, i tried to get mine in the same place, and it seemed to work well...

 

 

The C forks get the full range of travel, more so than the HF2 which, being not as deep but with a wider rim touch on the blister much earlier.

 

 

Mounting up, managed to get both sides drilled in the same place so both sides get full movement, which i didn't quite manage first time out.

 

 

Not the tidiest of soldering stations (being my kitchen table) but the extra hands really pay dividends...

 

 

I had some heatshrink on hand this time, so i made a rudimentary Y split and also sealed off the ends as they go into the cups...

 

 

 

(high res)

 

Suited and booted.  The headband is one i made years ago for my HF1s that i dug out since it's got more padding than the one that comes with the HF2.  It's not real leather, unfortunately, but it is rather comfortable.  Need to source some wire mesh to make the screens now, and work out how i'm going to finish the wood...

post #64 of 127
Quote:

Need to source some wire mesh to make the screens now, and work out how i'm going to finish the wood...

I suggest heavy gauge mesh. It's so sad when the screens get dented or misshaped on pretty woodies.

post #65 of 127

Great work Rav, they look awesome!!!!!  eek.gif
 

I bought the mesh for my woodies here: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/MeshCompany (they also have a web: http://www.themeshcompany.com/), great stuff.

 

As per the finish... after several failed attempts of spraying transparent lacquer (every single attempt followed by a re-sanding of all the pieces mad.gif), I decided to use tung oil and I'm really pleased with the results. I really like the semi mate and natural finish achieved with tung oil versus the "caramel" look of the lacquer.

 

Again, great work!, keep showing us pics wink.gif

post #66 of 127

Very nice!

 

Now how about staining it purple like the others?

 

wink.gif

post #67 of 127
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcaudon View Post

Great work Rav, they look awesome!!!!!  eek.gif
 

I bought the mesh for my woodies here: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/MeshCompany (they also have a web: http://www.themeshcompany.com/), great stuff.

 

As per the finish... after several failed attempts of spraying transparent lacquer (every single attempt followed by a re-sanding of all the pieces mad.gif), I decided to use tung oil and I'm really pleased with the results. I really like the semi mate and natural finish achieved with tung oil versus the "caramel" look of the lacquer.

 

Again, great work!, keep showing us pics wink.gif

 

Thanks, funnily enough i came across that ebay site just yesterday. Tung oil is also on my list for basically the reasons you gave, i don't want to do too much, just bring out the beauty of the wood and give it some protection. Not sure i want to be giving them five or six coats,sanding between each one though that would take a week...

 

Grokit ... don't get me going :-P

post #68 of 127

Wow great work! I think they need a good oiling as well:P 

post #69 of 127

those look great man!

post #70 of 127

Nice work those look amazing!

post #71 of 127

Very beautiful!

 

Wachara C.

post #72 of 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rav View Post

 

Tung oil is also on my list for basically the reasons you gave, i don't want to do too much, just bring out the beauty of the wood and give it some protection. Not sure i want to be giving them five or six coats,sanding between each one though that would take a week...

 

 

Great job!

 

I hope you give us lots of pics of how you go about finishing them.

post #73 of 127
Very nice!

A hand-oiled finish would look most handsome, but, require a semi-annual oiling. Really depends upon climate and humidity levels.

Do you have any scrapes left? I would suggest experimenting on those until you find the finish you like. The various oils or even a simple shellac have radically different effects. Especially when the parts are so small. Regardless, any oil-based product will have a slight yellowing effect that can really add richness and depth. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

Again, really, really nice work!
post #74 of 127

If you want to have an idea of how your cups would look like with tung oil, here are mines: http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/1665#post_8570145. I don't have pictures of how they were before the oiling, but they looked almost identical to yours right now.

 

Regarding the re-oiling that jdkjake points out, what I do is to clean them from time to time with a soft fabric (as you would do with any other set of headphones) with a very small amount of oil on it (they look gorgeus when I finish wink.gif). I don't really think they will need special maintenance, just regular cleaning. But, as jdkjake mentions, it will depend on climate so...

post #75 of 127
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcaudon View Post

If you want to have an idea of how your cups would look like with tung oil, here are mines: http://www.head-fi.org/t/576717/grado-modders-go-magnum/1665#post_8570145. I don't have pictures of how they were before the oiling, but they looked almost identical to yours right now.

 

Regarding the re-oiling that jdkjake points out, what I do is to clean them from time to time with a soft fabric (as you would do with any other set of headphones) with a very small amount of oil on it (they look gorgeus when I finish wink.gif). I don't really think they will need special maintenance, just regular cleaning. But, as jdkjake mentions, it will depend on climate so...

 

I remember seeing those when you posted before, they look really nice.  Not sure if i want mine to go as dark as that though, after spending some time with them i almost want an 'invisible' finish, kinda like them just as they are tbh.

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