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Creative Sound Blaster new series Z, Zx & ZxR - Page 126

post #1876 of 2278
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoOneLt View Post
 

@germanium Hey, can You explain in few words what it gives to ZxR? Thanks!

 

 

Sound is perfect, Huge soundstage, articulate midrange that still is warm & musical & more harmonically complete, imaging that goes well beyond the edges of the speakers on a regular basis. Smoother & yet more detailed treble. sibilants that don't feel like you ears are getting laser drilled & yet contain more detail that make the sibilants sound natural. Bass though still strong does not take center stage anymore in terms of dominating the sound, the clean & very articulate midrange does which is how it is supposed to be. Sounds nothing like the stock ZXR card at all, yet all the main active hardware is stock, only capacitor modifications. Speakers disappear into the sound field which is what stereo is supposed to do when done properly

post #1877 of 2278

germanium, thanks for the guide!

 

I want to ask you a few questions though;

 

1) Are you using the sound card primarily with headphones (does this even benefit running 5.1 speaker setup (see my sig))

2) How much of a difference does this mod make?

3) Are you running stock opamps?

4) Did you come up with this by yourself?

post #1878 of 2278
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

germanium, thanks for the guide!

 

I want to ask you a few questions though;

 

1) Are you using the sound card primarily with headphones (does this even benefit running 5.1 speaker setup (see my sig))

2) How much of a difference does this mod make?

3) Are you running stock opamps?

4) Did you come up with this by yourself?

 

1.I do use headphones but not as my main listening device. For that I use my modified M-Audio BX5's which are modified & modified Tannoy TS10 subwoofer in a similar fashion & are extremely high resolution. Can be beneficial for 5.1 surround sound as well if you short the caps in the blue box. Should be no need to add more bypasses as I found through experimentation that it really doesn't seem to matter where they are placed so much in the power supply circuit as much as just being present at all. previous experiments on other equipment suggest they can be placed even before regulated power supplies & still do the trick. The placement on this card is more for convenience than for sound but in this case it works oh so well.

 

2.It is a huge difference. Only positive that to me the stock card had was it's strong bass that went very deep. Low level midrange sounds were clouded before & this affected the soundstage in a negative way making it sound claustrophobic stock. Once modified the soundstage is huge with lots of depth, low level background sounds are now very clear, not clouded like before modification. High frequencies are also much clearer & sweeter, stock the cymbals & sibilance was harsh but not very revealing at the same time, now the harshness is gone & there is actually more detail & it sounds very sweet. The strong incredibly deep bass remains but no longer is the strongest point of this card, the incredible sounding midrange & sweet detailed top end is the crowning jewel of this card.

 

3. Yes stock opamps.

 

4. Idea of using bypasses not my original idea but using very large bypasses is my original idea & came about through experimentation, I found it very helpful in obtaining a consistent &  highly detailed sound signature. While I can't say that shorting the coupling caps is my original idea I did come about this independently & was doing this long before coming on headfi.


Edited by germanium - 2/9/14 at 10:24am
post #1879 of 2278

@germanium Hey, is seems You are using speakers, not headphones, and will this make difference in headphone mode?

 

Edit: oh, i get it.. You modify both speaker both headphone AMP. So if one use only headphones it is enough to put 4-12uf caps on green marked ones? Do You hear same improvements in both modes?


Edited by NoOneLt - 2/9/14 at 10:17am
post #1880 of 2278
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoOneLt View Post
 

@germanium Hey, is seems You are using speakers, not headphones, and will this make difference in headphone mode?

 

Edit: oh, i get it.. You modify both speaker both headphone AMP. So if one use only headphones it is enough to put 4-12uf caps on green marked ones? Do You hear same improvements in both modes?


The power supply caps near the headphone amp is common to all the opamps as well so no other bypasses are needed in this area but you still need the bypasses on the power supply for the DAC which is the caps in the purple box.

 

Same benefits on headphones. I do use headphones just not as my main listening device.


Edited by germanium - 2/9/14 at 10:34am
post #1881 of 2278

I wonder if the SBZ would benefit from such a mod.

post #1882 of 2278
Quote:
Originally Posted by atoff View Post
 

I wonder if the SBZ would benefit from such a mod.

Yes, this has worked on every card I have tried

post #1883 of 2278

So if I only use my ZXR for Surround Sound what would my inventory sheet look like for the mylars?

post #1884 of 2278
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

So if I only use my ZXR for Surround Sound what would my inventory sheet look like for the mylars?


Same as above except shorting the coupling caps need to be done at the surround sound section. Blue box in photo. 

post #1885 of 2278

I plan on desoldering the cap rather than shorting them, so I need to remove all of the caps in all of the colored boxes?  Even if I don't give a damn about headphone section?  (I have an Aune T1 for my SoundMAGIC HP100s)

post #1886 of 2278

ALchemy noob question 

 

say, i want to play an old directsound3d game like farcry1, should i choose  "stereo" "headphones"  "surround" or "dolby 5.1"  ? 

post #1887 of 2278
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

I plan on desoldering the cap rather than shorting them, so I need to remove all of the caps in all of the colored boxes?  Even if I don't give a damn about headphone section?  (I have an Aune T1 for my SoundMAGIC HP100s)

Short or remove & put wire only the ones in the red box for stereo & all in the red & blue box for analog surround out if also using surround speakers. All others are power supply & if you short those you will blow your card & possibly damage your motherboard as power comes from you motherboard on this card. Removing caps brings the danger of damaging the traces on the multilayer circuit board which is why I only short them as this takes them electrically out of the circuit & there is no difference in sound. I have done those experiments in the past already & no difference. 


Edited by germanium - 2/9/14 at 12:07pm
post #1888 of 2278

I understand shorting and desoldering are equal, but I am a pretty skilled in soldering (10+ years) and an Electrical Engineering student (Jr.) and I thought I might be able to fit 2 of the smaller mylars in the card casing with the caps gone.

post #1889 of 2278
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

I understand shorting and desoldering are equal, but I am a pretty skilled in soldering (10+ years) and an Electrical Engineering student (Jr.) and I thought I might be able to fit 2 of the smaller mylars in the card casing with the caps gone.

 

How is shorting and desoldering equal?  Desoldering is removal of solder... no short / bridge.  Shorting would mean bridging the 2 points, i.e. shorting them out. 

post #1890 of 2278
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCSUZoSo View Post
 

I understand shorting and desoldering are equal, but I am a pretty skilled in soldering (10+ years) and an Electrical Engineering student (Jr.) and I thought I might be able to fit 2 of the smaller mylars in the card casing with the caps gone.


 Any mylar cap small enough to fit under the EMI shield will likely result in an inconsistent sound signature that is very open & sweet at the top end but leave the midrange still lacking and sounding claustrophobic. That is why I use such huge bypasses, to get a consistent sound signature. That is what my experiments have shown in the past.

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