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I need to replace my cable on my Grado SR60's. Quick questions. - Page 2

post #16 of 21
Thread Starter 

Update, like anyone gives a crap! Anyway, it wasn't all that difficult to do, it just took a little patience. I went and bought some of those tiny little spring clips like I had seen someone use in a video. It was a waste of money in my opinion. They pop out from between the edges/groove/lip (whatever you want to call it) too easily. I can see why the guy in the video I watched used them, but I just found it to be unnecessary.

 

That pic is just to show you what little clips I am talking about that you probably don't need.

Okay, so to get the ear thingamabob open I just set it on the counter, then set a small aerosol can on top of the earpiece so it would have some weight on it while I used the hairdryer on it to heat it up. Worked fine. Took a little over a minute, maybe two to heat it up enough so that I could pull it apart with my hands. That little label up there on the pic there is just a little note I stuck on it so I could keep straight which wired were going to which earpiece. I don't know if it even matters, but I thought it might so I did that and know that the wired I spliced onto my new cord would go back to the "correct" side.

 

As far as the cable part of the project went, here is kind of what I did.

I cut the cable and reused the plug that came from the factory. I didn't buy a new plug. I just stripped the end where I cut it to expose the wires.

I found some fairly flexible wire I had lying around the house from some old speakers and spliced it onto the exposed wires with a little electrical tape.

I used some shrink wrap stuff that I got from an electrical supply shop - you can probably get more than you need for less than five dollars. It was cheaper at the electrical supply than it was at Radio Shack. The Radio Shack near my house only had tiny little sections of the shrink wrap stuff, at the electrical supply store I got a couple of three foot sections for less than $5.00.

 

Okay, so I used a little soldering iron and carefully applied heat to there the wires came into contact with the "contact spots", whatever THEY are called, and pulled the old wires loose. I was a little worried about getting that part too hot so I just heated a few seconds and pulled the iron away over and over until the old wire pulled free. I don't know if that was necessary, but something I read earlier made me think that it was possible to 'overheat' something inside that little metal thingamabob (driver?) and I didn't want to mess anything up so I did it that way. Anyway, they are fixed now, so apparently I didn't damage anything by doing it the way that I did.

 

THEN I used some tape to hold down my "new" cord still on the work table. I didn't want it wobbling around while I was trying to solder the "new" wires onto the drivers, OR WHATEVER THEY ARE CALLED. Well, that trick worked pretty well. The cable stayed pretty still while I did my soldering on those little contact places. I also used a little tape on the earpiece itself where the new cable was coming through that little groove/slot place in the earpiece that is just below the contact spot. (I hope that isn't too confusing 'cause I'm not gonna explain it better than that. If you have to do it, you'll know the place I'm talking about when you get to that point in the project.)

 

Okay, now I'm gonna go back in time a sec to BEFORE I did the final soldering. I put shrink wrap over the new cable from the plug up to where it splits for each earpiece. I put some shrink wrap over each set of wires that runs to each of the earpieces. Then I put another piece of shrink wrap over the "Y".  It worked fine. It's not the prettiest cable in the world, but it works!

 

I didn't worry about any cosmetic stuff or other "modding". I like my Grado's fine they way they are. I kind of think that if I'm going to be a sommelier of headphones I'll just plop down the doe and get "the best" I can afford. These little Grado's are champs in my book!

post #17 of 21

Why did you use spoon? Accordingly the video cans get separated by force of gravity after good heating.

 

What about the cable?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grado-Stereo-headphone-replacement-cable-model-SE80i-and-similar-models-brand-ne-/121082772822?pt=US_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item1c31187d56

One thing looks weird why it has two 3mm plugs? I can't figure out looking at photo. I have model 60, but it seems no difference to 80i from design stand point.

post #18 of 21
I tried to quote someone who asked about original cables, but it's not quoted. Whatever.

My question is why would one want an original cable? It's **** with the pressed together cables at the Y-thing. It's the reason they break in the first place.
post #19 of 21

If you check on eBay, there are several sellers who have 'ready to attach' cables made for Grado. I'm going to woody my old SR60i, and I found a copper cable by 'Venus_audio' for 29$ and a silver cable by 'Amplifier_Surgery' for 49$. Both sellers have ship the cables with the ends 'pre-tinned' and a small amount of good solder, so all you need is a soldering iron.

 

I will probably order one of these, because I don't think I'm good enough at soldering to attach a connector. I contacted the Venus Audio guy to ask which Canare cable he used and what connector, and he replied:

Quote:
The cable I use for the Grado replacement cable with a 3.5mm plug is the Canare L-4e5c 4 conductor cable.  I use the Amphenol premium gold plated 3.5mm plug. 

 

I'm not sure you can get a good five-feet copper cable for much less than 29$...

post #20 of 21

Seriously?
What's the material in regular cables?

Personally I wouldn't get a $50 cable for a what? $75 headphone?

This cable got a bunch of extra crap on it but:
http://www.ikea.com/se/sv/catalog/products/50116593/

Is material in a regular Ethernet cable too thin and of too high resistance?

 

Two strands for ground and signal each? Or possibly four along part of the cable for ground but I guess that require more work.

Way too ****ty?

My cable is broken to and the production quality of the Y-part is complete **** and they should replace them for free since they do such a ****ty design imho.

Another solution would be to simply cut that bit of and replace it with something else and keep the cable I guess.

post #21 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by aliquis View Post
 

Personally I wouldn't get a $50 cable for a what? $75 headphone?

 

Your opinion of course.

 

I've had this SR60i for two years and recently bought an SR325iS. So now I'm thinking of modding the SR60i: Nice leather headband from Turbulent Labs, Khaya Mahogany wooden cups through a Head-Fi member and, yes, a new cable.

 

The standard cable has damage to the outer layer, and I think a nice 'vintage-looking' cable would make the 60 into a beautiful headphone.

 

And since I'm not handy enough to make a good cable (and I'm not cheap enough to put an IKEA lamp cord on it), I don't mind paying 30-50$ for a cable made to my specifications.

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