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I need to replace my cable on my Grado SR60's. Quick questions.

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 

I don't want to send them in to anyone to repair. Not worth cost.

I saw this video where a guy got his open by using a hairdryer and some spring clips.


I think he is using the clips to put some outward pressure on the earphones.


That looks pretty doable.


Now my first question is this: can I guess suitable wire at Radioshack or Walmart or someplace like that. I live in a very small town. Do I need to find an

electronics place or something?


I have a saudering iron somewhere, do I need some kind of special sauder?


Also, when I was looking up this stuff I kept running into "modding headphones". If I am going to open them up is there some "modding" that I could

do at the same time that would make my fantastic, but worn to shreds headphones even better?


Main thing, though, is what kind/size, whatever, wire do I need to do this.


If I mess 'em up I'll get a new pair, but would rather fix these if I can.


Thanks in advance for your replies,


post #2 of 21
Thread Starter 

can I guess suitable wire at Radioshack or Walmart

I meant can I GET suitable wire there

post #3 of 21
Thread Starter 
post #4 of 21

This are probably  the most modded headphones on here. Here is a huge thread on modding them.



Steam works really well to open the headphones. I would stay away from the senn hd600 cable its both really long and thin.

post #5 of 21
Thread Starter 

I wonder if Grado sells replacement cables. I went to their website, but didn't see one. Are there any folks on this site that work for Grado that you know of?

post #6 of 21

What's wrong with your current cable that necessitates the need to replace the whole thing?

post #7 of 21

There is A TON of info about modding/repairing Grados on the forums. The Search button will be your best friend.


Here is some info to get you started:


  • Here is my post on replacing the cable on my friend's SR-80s.
  • Without getting into why you're replacing the cable, I would suggest other wire than what you can get at Radio Shack or Walmart. You are most likely going to find very thick gauge speaker wire, which will be very difficult to solder on to a plug. If you have a local music store (I went to Guitar Center), look for 4-wire microphone cable. I went with Mogami 2534 on the Grados here. It's cheap, built like a tank, and one length will have all 4 wires you need. The wire within is 24AWG (larger number is thinner). On a different project I worked with thinner 26AWG wire.
  • You will need a solder-able plug, which I doubt you can get from Radio Shack or Walmart. So you're probably better off ordering wire, plug and other supplies (heat shrink, wire sleeving, I would recommend a cheap heat gun) online.
  • As for opening the ear cups, I had good success with the heat gun and spoon trick. You can see it here along with A TON of Grado info.
  • Use a smooth, rounded edge spoon (I used a spoon from our house PB set) so you don't mar the cups. Heat, slide spoon to gently separate, heat, spoon, heat, etc...
  • MOST IMPORTANT (as I read a cautionary tale here just yesterday)!!!! DO NOT OVERHEAT THE CONTACT PADS WHEN REMOVING THE OLD CABLE AND SOLDERING THE NEW ONE. I luckily did not do this, but I just read that if you put the iron on for too long, some magnetic wire behind the contact will pop off and you will be HOSED. Tin your new wire tips ahead of time and work fast. Otherwise, you will be sending your headphones back to Grado for a $40 repair.


Research, read and be prepared. Good luck.

post #8 of 21
Thread Starter 

Thank you guys. The cable on my headphones is absolutely wearing out. It has lots of places where it is broken, for lack of a better word, and you can see the wires that are inside the outside black covering if that makes sense. I've been wrapping electrical tape around these places for about a year now, but finally the wires in one side are starting to get real loose up by one of the ear pieces. I use them almost daily, I'm not complaining about their quality or anything, they are great - they have just been used and abused so long ya know. I may actually try the mod thing since I have to open 'em up anyway. If I ruin them I think I'll get some of those Sennheiser 202's and try them for a while until I can get another pair of Grados. I was thinking of getting some anyway just 'cause. I tell you guys, it sucks living in a tiny town in the middle of nowhere. It must be nice to live in a real city with real places that you can actually go and listen to stuff before you buy it!

post #9 of 21
Thread Starter 

I looked at the pics of the SR 80's you worked on. My cable looks even worse than your friends did, a LOT worse, lol! What you did to hers looks great as far as I'm concerned. I just want them to work well and sound good, the cosmetic aspects don't bother me in the least. If you saw what a dork I look like when I walk around the nbh with my cheap mp3 player dangling over my shoulder by the headphone cable and my clunky headphones on you'd laugh your butt off! Ain't it great having great headphones!

post #10 of 21
Thread Starter 

the infamous "Grado grattle",


I've heard that before, but not often - that rattle. I saw the term on your link. Will modding do anything about that?

post #11 of 21
Thread Starter 

Sorry for bugging you, but I looked up that Mogami 2534 and it says that it is an instrument cable. It just so happens that I am a guitar player and have several extra guitar cords, would that be suitable do you think?

post #12 of 21

That probably would be fine.

I personally preferred opening Grado housings with the spoon method, and it worked really well.

post #13 of 21

You're not bugging. Glad to help when possible.  :)


I don't know anything about guitar cords, so I would hesitate to say, "yup, cut them up and see." I remember looking at the different bulk instrument/microphone cables at Guitar Center. There were ones with one, two and four wires within. Maybe others (like tzjin) with more experience can speak to this.


Oh, one question I didn't answer of yours was the type of solder. I use 63/37 rosin-core solder. May use the more common 60/40 rosin-core solder. This you can likely find at Radio Shack. I've only ever used the leaded variety, but many use the lead-free stuff.


As you saw from my pics, there is a fix to a jacked up cable. Good luck!

post #14 of 21

Mogami 2534 would be okay. 

if you can get mini starquad, use minis because the regular version would be too heavy.


get several inches of heatshrinks and grab a pair of cable ties for the inside of the chamber.

then, i guess you are ready to go.


remember not that blow right to the drivers/elements. that would damage the drivers.

just melt the glues on the cups.

post #15 of 21
Thread Starter 

Will do. I'll be going to a decent sized city pretty soon and will try to find all the stuff I still need. If I can't I'll order some online. I appreciate all the help guys. I think I can do this. I am pretty patient.

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