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DIY paint job gallery - Page 5

post #61 of 87

Does it chip off or scuff up easily?

post #62 of 87
Are you talking about the HD580's paint? Just as easily as any other paint I would imagine. Haha
post #63 of 87
I just painted them a few days ago so they're perfect. And I put the burgundy fabric on the headband and inside the cups today. It looks really clean.
post #64 of 87

What's the best way to paint headphones and stuff? 


Shouldn't automotive paint be the highest quality? Which brand to go for, etc?

What grits do you use to sand, wet or dry?

 

What primer and sealer to use, how many coats?

 

Thanks.

post #65 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial88 View Post
 

What's the best way to paint headphones and stuff? 


Shouldn't automotive paint be the highest quality? Which brand to go for, etc?

What grits do you use to sand, wet or dry?

 

What primer and sealer to use, how many coats?

 

Thanks.

 

1. Professional air spraying is the best.

2. That depends on what you're doing. You usually start off with high grit 120/240 to get rid of the existing colour (if going to a different base colour darker or lighter than the current). Work your way up to 400 then final would be 600-800 wet. Then prime.

3. Krylon stuff are pretty good but work the same as other premium non el-cheapo sprays. 1 layer of primer is enough, remember the purpose of the primer is to make sure the bond of the spray and existing surface go together nicely, otherwise expect easy peeling, rubbing off and flaking. 

post #66 of 87

Where would you get pro spraying, how much is it? Do they do the prep work and final work?

 

What exactly is the point of wet sanding? I've been doing a ton of house remodeling and i also do a lot of computer modding, every time I wet sand it seems the same as just sanding with the next step up grit, except it seems to not sand smoothly (like if I sound a bump down, the bump doesnt get flatter and flatter but rounder and rounder). 

 

So if krylon isnt that great, what to use?

I plan to paint my 558s, the ear shells or whatever (not the grill) blue. 

post #67 of 87

I use Rustoleum spray paint. There are a lot of colors to choose from and they adhere to the plastic pretty well. I have yet to have any issues with chipping or scratching off with it. They have a pretty awesome metallic blue too. I painted this Xbox slim with it after I installed plexi glass in it. It's only the shell, it was later shipped to North Carolina.

 

The bottom half is the same blue, but with VHT Niteshades (headlight/tailight tint) over it, and then I used the 2x Clear coat also made by Rustoleum.

 

*

post #68 of 87

Is that this one?

4f9c9d7a-5c33-409a-91a7-b3b326137f1f_300.jpg

 

 

I have this stuff, I've used it for a few pc parts. But your xbox wow, it looks really smooth. My issue with this stuff (just as a coat, maybe i didn't seal/prep properply, i did sand/clean/prime though) is that it looks too much like spray paint, particularly with that metallic flakes in it, rather than a solid color. 

 

Did you use rustoleum clear coat for the entire thing, or you mean just the bottom half? Is that what is really making it pop? Because if it is, I'm gonna have to buy some to finish up a few parts i did just in the blue!

 

I would've figured automotive paint would be 'higher quality'. 

 

I'm really more of a fun of dyeing and sublimation than painting, when possible, though. The 558s are black, I dont think it's possible to whiten them with bleach or anything, though i know you can dye plastics (if it doesnt dye normally, just add bleach). 


Edited by Belial88 - 2/4/14 at 7:22am
post #69 of 87
I didn't use primer at all on the Xbox, which was black before, and it is still very bright. I normally use like 5 coats of paint leaving 10 mins between coats, then wait a half hour before applying 3-5 coats of clear and waiting 10 mins or so between coats. And it's extremely smooth.
post #70 of 87
I would recommend always using some kind of clear coat, whether you're going for a matte look or gloss finish. Use clear cost, your job will turn out so much better and be much more protected.  

Also, I can tell you that I don't think it's possible bleach plastic, I work at a plastic sheet factory, all plastic is a natural whitish-yellowish color in small rice-sized pieces at the start and is extruded with color concentrate mixed into while in liquid form. Its all resin, I don't think bleach won't do jack to it.
Edited by cCasper TFG - 2/4/14 at 7:01pm
post #71 of 87

Darn, yea then I can only dye light plastics then. Maybe I could buy the 598s and dye them, and then paint the darker parts of it...

 

I bought the rustoleum clear coat:

 

 

 

I hope it looks decent, not like crap. I have experience with varnishes and sealers on flooring, tile, and on painted figurines. I've seen it ruin figurines as well, the new warhammer purity seal is pretty nasty stuff, its really matte. What would this rustoleum do? Obviously we want gloss right?

 

3-5 coats man, that's brutal. I usually do 1-2 (do each of your coats cover it 100%? by getting all the nooks and crannies you usually cover most of it, or is it like a dusting more than a coat?).

 

So is that metallic blue that I pictured above what you used? 

post #72 of 87

Yeah that's the exact blue I used. I do like 5 coats of clear, but it's closer to a dusting. I do the smallest amount I can to put a layer on the whole thing. I just do it  like 5 times. Haha

And that clear coat should work fine. I've used it before, I normally grab the 2x Clear. I don't know what the difference is, it just worked well for me the first time I used it so I kept getting it.

post #73 of 87

Hm, i wonder which clear coat is better. I just go by lowes and they dont really have that much, like i didnt see the 2x there (the crystal clear i picked up was the only top coat of any brand they had).

 

What about primers, what's the best primer to use? I have some self etching primer, is it okay to just use that like with plastics and such, or should i just buy myself a can of regular primer? Do I need adhesion promoters of any kind? There's like 10 different primers at the store, I just don't know which to use. 

 

And what about polishing or waxes? Do you put any polish or wax on top of the clear coat? 


Edited by Belial88 - 2/5/14 at 10:53am
post #74 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial88 View Post
 

Hm, i wonder which clear coat is better. I just go by lowes and they dont really have that much, like i didnt see the 2x there (the crystal clear i picked up was the only top coat of any brand they had).

 

What about primers, what's the best primer to use? I have some self etching primer, is it okay to just use that like with plastics and such, or should i just buy myself a can of regular primer? Do I need adhesion promoters of any kind? There's like 10 different primers at the store, I just don't know which to use. 

 

And what about polishing or waxes? Do you put any polish or wax on top of the clear coat? 

You don't need to polish clear coat or put wax on it. I don't ever use primer with plastics really, you can but I dont really have any issues with bonding without it. If you're going to paint metal you should though. I have no idea what etching primer is, I would recommend you just get some regular primer just to be safe if you're going to prime your project. I'm sure the clear coat you got will work just fine.

post #75 of 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial88 View Post
 

Hm, i wonder which clear coat is better. I just go by lowes and they dont really have that much, like i didnt see the 2x there (the crystal clear i picked up was the only top coat of any brand they had).

 

What about primers, what's the best primer to use? I have some self etching primer, is it okay to just use that like with plastics and such, or should i just buy myself a can of regular primer? Do I need adhesion promoters of any kind? There's like 10 different primers at the store, I just don't know which to use. 

 

And what about polishing or waxes? Do you put any polish or wax on top of the clear coat? 

 

trust me, you're thinking too hard ;)

 

Lowe's carries some "plastic" spray paint, it's made for lawn furniture and stuff.  i've had good luck with that on plastic without any primer work.  i've also had good luck with all sorts of regular paint and primers including the cheapest crap i could find. just get a couple decent brand name cans, a whole bunch of sandpaper and have fun.  you can always change the color again if you don't like the results!  i like to spend my money on the clearcoat, the cheap stuff will clump or orange peel bad but even a nice krylon/rustoleum clear coat can look excellent

 

i'm an OCD painter, if i take something apart to mod/repair/look at the insides, i'll almost always paint it regardless of material.  i think my grados were apart for 10 minutes before i found some old cans of krylon

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