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Galaxy S i9000 - best quality: connecting to car via headphone out or streaming via bluetooth?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

Hello guys,

I have a Galaxy S i9000 and would also like to use it in my car as a sound player.

But how do I get the best quality out of it? I prefer to listen to music but not with a very high volume.

So a really loud volume doesn't really matter to me. Furthermore I don't listen to any flac files anymore but just MP3's wwhich usually have 192 kb/s - 246 kb/s.

Maybe a simple solution would therefore be just fine for me and other solutions might be overkill?

I don't care if I have to connect the phone via cable or wireless via bluetooth.

Hence I think that I would have the following options:


1. Connecting the phone directly to the amp (Crunch GTX4800) of my car via headphone out to Cinch but installing voodoo sound first -> costs 0,00


2. Connecting the phone to the line in of a good head unit via headphone out but installing voodoo sound first -> costs 100,00 (I have a good used headunit (JVC KDR-701) which I could sell for 120,00 USD)
(I assume that the analog sound will just be amplified by the headunit which would result in better sound during a higher volume.
But will other quality attributes also improve or just the one mentioned? If so I would rather prefer not to have a headunit in my car at all)


3. Installing cyanogenmod 9.0 on the i9000 with an increased bluetooth sbc bitpool of 53 and streaming the music via bluetooth to a good headunit -> cost 120,00 USD for the headunit + 80,00 USD for a headunit bluetooth adapter)
(But will the sound be better then 1. and 2.? I also heard that the CM 9.0 version isn't really ready for everyday use yet?
The main advantage is probably that the music won't go through the Samsung's DAC but goes directly to the Radio's DAC. However I have no idea how good that increased "53" bitpool really is. Enough for 192 kb/s - 246 kb/s? I read that the maximum file transfer is 300 kb/s via bluetooth with the increased bitpool?
I assume that the wolfson dac of the i9000 with the voodoo sound might be as good as a good headunit which receives it's music with the increased "53" bitpool via bluetooth or am I wrong?)


3.1 Doing the same as in 3. but streaming to a [url=http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Speaker-Bluetooth-980-000540/dp/B004VM1T5S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343169488&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+bluetooth+music]"Logitech Wireless Speaker Adapter for Bluetooth Audio Devices"[/url] or a similar device and connecting it directly to the amp -> costs 40,00 USD


4. Using a no name 7" TFT Double DIN touchscreen head unit which I have and loading the songs via external usb hard drive.
(I do like the large 7" display as it is very ergonomic to browse through folders and pick songs etc. but I am not sure about the sound quality)


5. I know that the best way would be to use a Galaxy III which is supporting some USB Dac's. However I don't have the cash for a Galaxy III + good USB DAC right now. But maybe one of the stated above options is enough for my needs to listen to 192 kb/s - 246 kb/s MP3's.

I am looking forward for to read your oppinions and appreciate your help.

Thanks!

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #2 of 10
Thread Starter 

No one?
 

post #3 of 10

I have my SGS connected to AUX in on my headunit. I don't think it is much different from connecting straight to the amp, BUT: headunits are usually a lot easier to adjust volume/mute while driving than touchscreen phones and I have a lot better EQ options on my headunit. I've never had good experience with bluetooth, quite a hassle to set up, eats battery very fast and skips quite often...

 

Those cheap "no-name" headunits usually sound bad, very bad. No bass, ear splitting treble and no useful settings or adjustments.

 

Whatever you do, get Voodoo sound.

post #4 of 10

Well I will put this caveat in.


The best sound is irrelevant if the car is using OEM anything. It will sound like crap and at speed (55mph). you could play 128k MP3 and won't hear the difference between lossless.

 

That is unless you are riding around in a Mecedes Benz S550 or BMW 750li (those cars have Dual pane glass for sound isolation).

 

With that said, The bluetooth, if the car supports Bluetooth 3.0 +HSV or 4.0. Then that is the route to take.

post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 


Right now I use the headphone jack out and connected it directly to my amp.

 

I tried to use the aux in of my no name radio but the sound was much better if the Galaxy was directly connected to my amp.

Furthermore I bought the original ECS-V968 car mount, made a custom bracket so I don't have to fix it to the windshield and included a 3.5mm male headphone jack.

I included the male headphone jack as the car mount used the "usb in" to transfer the music to the included headphone out at the car mount.

However this won't work with voodoo sound, hence my modification.

I will also use Satechi Bluetooth Remote while driving.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sne9B0j4Z64
 

 

 

http://s17.postimage.org/ietibbvf3/IMG_3088.jpg

 


I soldered my RCA cable directly to the 3.5mm headphone jack but you can also use a Y-Adapter instead.

http://s11.postimage.org/twgz8yzj7/2012_08_25_14_22_05.jpg

post #6 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by hampox View Post


Right now I use the headphone jack out and connected it directly to my amp.

 

I tried to use the aux in of my no name radio but the sound was much better if the Galaxy was directly connected to my amp.

Furthermore I bought the original ECS-V968 car mount, made a custom bracket so I don't have to fix it to the windshield and included a 3.5mm male headphone jack.

I included the male headphone jack as the car mount used the "usb in" to transfer the music to the included headphone out at the car mount.

However this won't work with voodoo sound, hence my modification.

I will also use Satechi Bluetooth Remote while driving.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sne9B0j4Z64
 

 

 

http://s17.postimage.org/ietibbvf3/IMG_3088.jpg

 


I soldered my RCA cable directly to the 3.5mm headphone jack but you can also use a Y-Adapter instead.

http://s11.postimage.org/twgz8yzj7/2012_08_25_14_22_05.jpg

Overly complicated for placebo gains.


Take it from someone that used to compete in Car Audio.

 

Without significant amount of sound isolation (Dampeening, Isolation, dual pane glasses for less wind noise etc), some very expensive speakers installed correctly (MB Quarts, Focal, Rainbow, Image Dynimics in kick panels), clean amp outputs (think OLD Pheonix Gold, Orion, PPI etc). and a 30 channel EQ on both channels, you are just really not going to hear the difference unless at 0 MPH with the motor turned off and then if using the OEM speakers. Very very doubtful.

 

So what does your system consit off to go through this excersice?

 

Looking at the soldering... it did not take. It is a cold joint. You need more heat as the solder did not flow into the wire at all. Just stayed as a blob on top.


Edited by figgie - 9/6/12 at 9:41am
post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by figgie View Post

Overly complicated for placebo gains.


Take it from someone that used to compete in Car Audio.

 

Without significant amount of sound isolation (Dampeening, Isolation, dual pane glasses for less wind noise etc), some very expensive speakers installed correctly (MB Quarts, Focal, Rainbow, Image Dynimics in kick panels), clean amp outputs (think OLD Pheonix Gold, Orion, PPI etc). and a 30 channel EQ on both channels, you are just really not going to hear the difference unless at 0 MPH with the motor turned off and then if using the OEM speakers. Very very doubtful.

 

So what does your system consit off to go through this excersice?

 

Looking at the soldering... it did not take. It is a cold joint. You need more heat as the solder did not flow into the wire at all. Just stayed as a blob on top.


What exactly is complicated in your oppinion?

About what hearable difference in sound quality are you speaking?

My setup compared to what?

The soldering worked out perfectly. You can't see the ground soldered on the jack as it's under the layer of glass fibre.

The only problem I experience now is that I hear a slight amount of noise from the alternator if the music isn't playing.

 

I have a relatively simple music setup, crunch GTX4800 amp, no subwoofer and Infinity 6510cs 90W RMS (270W peak) 2-way loudspeaker in the front.

 

The front doors have dynamat on them. Only change going to happen is that I want to install a 7" or 8" tablet and run a USB DAC in the future.


Edited by hampox - 9/6/12 at 9:56am
post #8 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by hampox View Post


What exactly is complicated in your oppinion?

About what hearable difference in sound quality are you speaking?

My setup compared to what?

The soldering worked out perfectly. You can't see the ground soldered on the jack as it's under the layer of glass fibre.

The only problem I experience now is that I hear a slight amount of noise from the alternator if the music isn't playing.

 

I have a relatively simple music setup, crunch GTX4800 amp, no subwoofer and Infinity 6510cs 90W RMS (270W peak) 2-way loudspeaker in the front.

 

The front doors have dynamat on them. Only change going to happen is that I want to install a 7" or 8" tablet and run a USB DAC in the future.

All the work you are doing is bested by simple bluetooth connectivity. making all this work more complicated then it needs to be for minimal if any gains. ;)

 

Audible difference, none. As with your statement #4. If you hear alternator whine. Then that is present when the music is playing whether it is audible or not, it will affect the sound.

 

Dynamat on the doors, Both on the external panel and the internal panel? Dynamat is for dampening. Sound isolation is a different and costly animal. They are not the same.

 

Crunch Amp? THD sux. S/N ratio are horrible. I would say go with Fosgate, Sony, Pioneer, etc but that probably is outside of your budget.

 

So you have a couple of things working for you but if you are looking just for it to work. Then you are going down the right path, I would still keep an eye on that solder work. It WILL let go, just a matter of when.

post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by figgie View Post

All the work you are doing is bested by simple bluetooth connectivity. making all this work more complicated then it needs to be for minimal if any gains. ;)

 

Audible difference, none. As with your statement #4. If you hear alternator whine. Then that is present when the music is playing whether it is audible or not, it will affect the sound.

 

Dynamat on the doors, Both on the external panel and the internal panel? Dynamat is for dampening. Sound isolation is a different and costly animal. They are not the same.

 

Crunch Amp? THD sux. S/N ratio are horrible. I would say go with Fosgate, Sony, Pioneer, etc but that probably is outside of your budget.

 

So you have a couple of things working for you but if you are looking just for it to work. Then you are going down the right path, I would still keep an eye on that solder work. It WILL let go, just a matter of when.

 

I didn't liked the sound quality via bluetooth but maybe it was the fault of my cheap headunit in the end.

The cheap headunit also performed bad while I connected the phone via aux in to it.

Of course the alternator whine will affect the sound no matter what but it was much worse before.

I had the RCA cables installed on the left side of the car (next to the loudspeaker cables) but then I relocated them into the middle and the alternator whine massively decreased (it's a BMW so the battery is in the back and the power cables from the alternator are on the right side of the car).

Do you have any idea how I could get rid of the remaining alternator whine?

Would installing a noise filter next to the alternator solve the problem?

 

Or should I install a better RCA cable? Although I have a very good one already...

I installed dynamat only on the steel part of the door, nothing on the door cards.

This crunch amp which I have was rated very well in it's class but then again it is 200 bucks new and I got it for 100.

 

So we aren't speaking of an high end amp here.

Resoldering if something comes loose won't be a problem.

However I intend to keep that setup only for a year, afterwards I will install a tablet + usb dac as described.

post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by hampox View Post

However I intend to keep that setup only for a year, afterwards I will install a tablet + usb dac as described.

This statement alone...this is a temp setup. Why complicate more than it needs to be? ;)

 

Clarion, Pioneer and Kenwood have solid Bluetooth in some of there Receivers.

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