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= Hifiman Regrilling Mod = - Page 11post #151 of 24810/10/13 at 9:51amNk77's will be more protective than brunk's, but brunk's have a better air to grill ratio by a fair bit. The brunk grills are a tad flimsy but youd have to really want to bend them in to do it
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #152 of 24810/10/13 at 10:00amThread Starter
I think past a certain point there is really not too much more improvement. I use the exact same mesh as Nk77 and honestly it is very, very close to how the drivers sound with absolutely no grills.
The testing is done via pink noise, as always. One important thing to do as control is to hold your fingers up around the open area of the driver (as if you are holding invisible grills) when testing for negative control, since the fingers themselves impose a slight distortion to the sound.post #153 of 24810/10/13 at 10:02amQuote:Originally Posted by ComradeDylie
Hellz yeah dude. Thanks for the tip, it took a couple stores but I think I mustve found the exact same grills. Not the sturdiest, I might try a trash can too. These really sound great so much more air to grill ratio than anything else I can across and nearly bought while I was desperately searching for this grill. I left the dust covers off, I plan to make a couple different sets with different colors and nylon on/off. Heck I bought 3 grills and you can make 6 out of 1 if you really want too.
Im kind of digging the silver on silver with the driver in the back ground since I dont have nylons its free air. The only things Im wondering, does everyone's driver have that ****ty looking glue on it? Thats all that really sucks. Who's pair had the felt star in it? That was pretty friggin cool, I want one kind of...only cuz of that damn glue though..=(
The felt star is from the HE-5LE headphone.Quote:
I used the original grill as a template and used a permanent marker on the disposable grill topper to mark where i cut them out. Once done, you'll probably need to make 4 semi-circle cuts where the plastic retainer ring clips reside and you're done!Quote:
Thanks guys. This is what i got from a Dollar General store, but Wal-Mart sells a similar product too. It's a "Disposable Grill Topper" They are flimsy as a whole tray, but when you cut them down and fit them into the HifiMan cup, they are actually pretty sturdy and would require deliberate pushing to cause it to bend. These are only like $2-$5 a pack too so it's an affordable experiment. I also got ultra-sheer pantyhose from the dollar store, but if someone wears earrings i would advise against it because it is delicate and earrings will cause a rip for sure.
Edited by brunk - 10/10/13 at 10:06ampost #154 of 24810/15/13 at 7:26ampost #155 of 24810/15/13 at 8:06ampost #156 of 24810/31/13 at 11:16ampost #157 of 24810/31/13 at 11:23ampost #158 of 24810/31/13 at 11:27ampost #159 of 24811/1/13 at 11:04ampost #160 of 24811/2/13 at 12:09am
So I just got done reading this whole thread and I love it. Grill cloth is removed but I'm wondering about a grill now and wondering what you guys and gals think about chair caning. From what I read there is a ringing that goes on when you use metal and especially non welded metal. Do you guys think that the wood might take the ringing out of the equation? It looks like it would be more free flowing than the stock grill as well.post #161 of 24811/2/13 at 8:37am
Just regrilled my HE-400, took a bit of work to get nice and working with nylon stockings is annoying, but here is a pic of the pair of grills I've made:
I noticed in the store where I bought the stockings. There is a big difference in thickness of the material and some brands mark it with "Denier". The lowest "Denier" I could find was 10 and the highest went all the way up to 70. I picked a pair with a Denier of 10, which lets through a lot of air. However, I am not too sure of how much dust they will let through.
Also instead of using superglue, I picked up glue on spray. Sprayed the side, which I wanted to attach the fabric and simply put the fabric on it and rubbed it gently to make it stick.
The grills I used were from a IKEA drawer thing to a closet, which was white when I bought it. Nothing a bit of black spray color couldn't fix.
Edited by Cheesebaron - 11/2/13 at 11:53ampost #162 of 24811/4/13 at 4:57pm
Just in case someone wanted some specs/dimension of the stock grill, I did a few measurements and calcs:
The diameter is roughly 85mm. The vents have a diameter of roughly 2mm and have a center to center spacing of 2.5mm. I estimated that the stock grills have an open area of about 52%. The thickness is between 0.4 and 0.5mm (I don't have a caliper so I used a crack comparator, so take that measurement with a grain of salt). Lastly, the stock grill is made of iron.
Edited by kard16 - 11/17/13 at 6:29pmpost #163 of 24811/12/13 at 4:56pmpost #164 of 24811/12/13 at 4:59pmpost #165 of 24811/12/13 at 9:26pm
All I'll say is that if you google "wire mesh" it'll be on the first page. I work as an engineer so it was pretty easy to get a few 4x6 inch samples.
As for the mesh, I wouldn't go any bigger than 23 gauge, otherwise the plastic ring might have some trouble getting on. Galvanized is fine but I vaguely remember learning that you can't paint galvanized steel (or you have to use special paint). I think they look fine as is, but, if you want your grill to be another color, you're probably better off with welded plain steel or stainless steel at 23 gauge.
- = Hifiman Regrilling Mod =
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