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Out of my depth...

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 

I have a pair of AT ESW9s which had the cable ripped out from one side from an accident. I re-soldered the connections but still got no sound from that side so I presumed I had over heated the coil in the driver or that some internal damage had been done when the cable was ripped out. ( I have tested the wire for ohm with a volt metre and they both produce a current.)

 

I ordered a new driver from the US and today I took out the one that was not functioning. I then tested the functioning side by plugging in my phone. It worked.

I then unscrewed the functioning side (very gently) to copy the wire colour to each solder pad. With the working driver unscrewed from its housing I plugged it into the phone again and there is no sound now what so ever! WTF have I done wrong... Is there some driver magnet science or something that means it will blow when music is played when it isnt screwed into it's housing?

I didn't even get a chance to put in the brand new driver. I now have two drivers that are not working and only one replacement. Is it not as simple as the two wires being soldered anywhere on the solder pad? This is so much harder than I expected ffs. 

 

Can anyone recommend a knowledgeable repairer in Brisbane and does it sound like I need a 2nd new driver ordered first?

 

Cheers for and help or advice everyone.

post #2 of 3

could the cable be screwed? ie. have an intermittent fault? i'm out in Woody Point near Redcliffe, but it would probably be best to know that there was at least 2 working drivers for me to install. what you describe doesnt sound right, no it doesnt need to be installed to work, headphone drivers by their nature are floating ie. do not have a ground, so plugging it into anything other than the 2 wires has no possibility of influence.

 

can you measure the resistance across both the new and old driver while not connected to a cable and see if they roughly match? they wont exactly match but they should be close and no sound at all would need for there to be no connection at all I would think.

post #3 of 3
Thread Starter 

Soz if this is stupid but how would I measure the resistance without the drivers being connected to anything? 

 

This is good news in a way but I still think I'm out of my depth from here on in. Sounds like the wire is loose in the Y or back at the jack if drivers are not typically this sensitive...

 

I might come see you when your free if your keen to take a look. I have bought shrink wrap and zip ties to take the pressure of the solders in the cups but what other materials will I need so as not to deplete your supplies qusp? The cable seems like good quality so I hope it doesn't have to be replaced.

Might find that all 3 drivers are still fine and another connection was just coming in and out during the whole repair. But I've lost confidence now. I replaced my car clutch a while ago and that was easier than messing with these tricky buggers lol.

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