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Fostex T50RP Incremental Mods and Measurements - Page 43

post #631 of 1102
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tintin220 View Post

Hopefully I can build the measurement rig within the next two weeks, but with my apartment lease still delayed due to unexpected renovation issues, that'll have to wait until I get settled in. I am curious myself to see the FR of how I tuned them, but I'm more interested in seeing the spectral decay.

REW is not so good at spectral decay. To get full range you have to make the time window too long; decrease it and you have to truncate the bass end of the spectrum. On the other hand, REW does a good job for SPL and spectrograms...and it's FREE (but make a small donation :) In addition to ARTA/Crossover, FuzzMeasure is slick. I did the free trial. It costs a bit to get full use (save a file, etc.) but I donated the same amount to REW for their free software. I think I'll pull out my old Dell laptop, clean out all the junk, buy FuzzMeasure, and give it another try.

 

BTW, thanks for clarifying your progress, plans, and methods. Very interesting, for sure.  If I'm not mistaken, someone posted something about using epoxy directly on inside of the cups for stiffening. Maybe do a Ludoo search, if interested.  Dynamat has been tried in the cups but Not sandwiched between the cups and a layer of epoxy.  

 

Sounds like we're in the same ball park RE: size/number of bass ports. A rough calculation suggests I'd like 2 or 3 of your 1/16 holes most of the time, sometimes one to none, and anything over approximately 75% of one cup vent slot open and the rest of that one and the others closed has about the same effect as all 4 open (with stock internal felt in place). I've also found it useful, at times, to make 2 smaller bass ports, one in the center of the top and bottom cup vent slot. I don't recall if I posted that or if I sent it to someone by PM. I am aware that Round bass ports are better/more efficient than Square bass ports of the same size but I have always tried to make mods that are reversible. I am, however, going to try your method in an extra set of cups lying around.

 

Anyway, thanks for the novel ideas...and for sharing them!


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 5/28/13 at 3:54pm
post #632 of 1102

Well, thanks to this thread I've essentially finished modding my T50RPs.  Pretty much followed DVB #3 using the cotton balls.  Decided to go with 9 bass holes since it seemed a bit anemic with just 4 (probably a crappy job of sealing on my part or something).  Also removed the thin felt on the ear side and sealed the baffle port.  I'm pretty pleased with how they sound overall though.  I was trying to roughly emulate the sound of my Mad Dogs (with alpha pads), and though they still sound different the general signature is similar.  Still kind of a newbie so I can't really describe the difference properly.

 

In any case, now I can just bring these to work and leave my Mad Dogs at home which was my original goal.  I may end up slightly opening the baffle port though since the bass seems a tad strong, but at the same time it's kind of fun hearing the thump. I guess that's the beauty of these things; I can continually mess with them until I'm satisfied.


Edited by aak57 - 5/30/13 at 8:30pm
post #633 of 1102

Just one help.

I bought one Fostex modded on ebay from mayflowerelectronics. The sound is good, the hardware (headphone) is broken.

I have received two weeks ago. Below the Photos.

I noticed some strange marks on the cups, they looked cracked and glued. This morning I found them open and broken but I did absolutely nothing.

 

 

 

 

Just one question. How can I fix this problems?

 

They are new and they have been bought here:

 

http://www.mayflowerelectronics.com/fostex-t50rp-v20.html

 

They sound very good, but are not hard, after two weeks are in this conditions.

 

 

http://www.mayflowerelectronics.com/fostex-t50rp-v20.html

post #634 of 1102

I finally got a configuration with Alpha pads, so I figured I'd post my setup so that someone can replicate it if they need to get their money's worth from the Alphas.

 

Inside:

-Clay filled baffle

-NO treble reflector

-Craft stiffened felt behind driver with 4x 2mm holes (in each corner of driver grid).

-Acoustipack in cup floors with Paxmate ladder rungs

-Adhesive felt on cup center column

-Felt covering vents is left as is

-6 cotton balls (not torn apart -- 2x3 configuration in each cup)

 

Earside:

-removed felt in front of driver with x-acto knife

-Paxmate foam added on top with a square cutout for driver (similar to Dan's Mad Dog -- look up his YouTube video about replacing Dog Pads with Alphas, he has a good shot of the Paxmate on the earside). This also covers the baffle vent FYI

-3 square pieces of standard soft felt placed directly above driver (meets just about flush with the Paxmate) to reduce sibilance

-Alpha pads.

post #635 of 1102
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thujone View Post

I finally got a configuration with Alpha pads, so I figured I'd post my setup so that someone can replicate it if they need to get their money's worth from the Alphas.

 

Inside:

-Clay filled baffle

-NO treble reflector

-Craft stiffened felt behind driver with 4x 2mm holes (in each corner of driver grid).

-Acoustipack in cup floors with Paxmate ladder rungs

-Adhesive felt on cup center column

-Felt covering vents is left as is

-6 cotton balls (not torn apart -- 2x3 configuration in each cup)

 

Earside:

-removed felt in front of driver with x-acto knife

-Paxmate foam added on top with a square cutout for driver (similar to Dan's Mad Dog -- look up his YouTube video about replacing Dog Pads with Alphas, he has a good shot of the Paxmate on the earside). This also covers the baffle vent FYI

-3 square pieces of standard soft felt placed directly above driver (meets just about flush with the Paxmate) to reduce sibilance

-Alpha pads.

Congrats, Thujone! Thanks for sharing.

post #636 of 1102
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thujone View Post

I finally got a configuration with Alpha pads, so I figured I'd post my setup so that someone can replicate it if they need to get their money's worth from the Alphas.

 

Inside:

-Clay filled baffle

-NO treble reflector

-Craft stiffened felt behind driver with 4x 2mm holes (in each corner of driver grid).

-Acoustipack in cup floors with Paxmate ladder rungs

-Adhesive felt on cup center column

-Felt covering vents is left as is

-6 cotton balls (not torn apart -- 2x3 configuration in each cup)

 

Earside:

-removed felt in front of driver with x-acto knife

-Paxmate foam added on top with a square cutout for driver (similar to Dan's Mad Dog -- look up his YouTube video about replacing Dog Pads with Alphas, he has a good shot of the Paxmate on the earside). This also covers the baffle vent FYI

-3 square pieces of standard soft felt placed directly above driver (meets just about flush with the Paxmate) to reduce sibilance

-Alpha pads.

Wow. Sounds like it would be pretty dark and bassy. Did you do a modified bass port or did you leave the vents completely open. 

post #637 of 1102
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonb View Post

Wow. Sounds like it would be pretty dark and bassy. Did you do a modified bass port or did you leave the vents completely open. 

They are closed up with the stock felt. It's strange because my buddy has a very similar setup except his doesn't have the ladder rungs, less cotton, and no felt in front of driver. His, while I would assume to be much more bassy than mine, are very bass lacking. It's almost like each pair needs to be tuned differently, though that seems unlikely.

post #638 of 1102

so are you saying the back side is completely sealed up? or are you saying it's open but with the stock felt left in place?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thujone View Post

They are closed up with the stock felt. It's strange because my buddy has a very similar setup except his doesn't have the ladder rungs, less cotton, and no felt in front of driver. His, while I would assume to be much more bassy than mine, are very bass lacking. It's almost like each pair needs to be tuned differently, though that seems unlikely.

post #639 of 1102
Quote:
Originally Posted by apeschi View Post

Just one help.

I bought one Fostex modded on ebay from mayflowerelectronics. The sound is good, the hardware (headphone) is broken.

I have received two weeks ago. Below the Photos.

I noticed some strange marks on the cups, they looked cracked and glued. This morning I found them open and broken but I did absolutely nothing.

 

Just one question. How can I fix this problems?

 

They are new and they have been bought here:

 

http://www.mayflowerelectronics.com/fostex-t50rp-v20.html

 

They sound very good, but are not hard, after two weeks are in this conditions.

 

 

http://www.mayflowerelectronics.com/fostex-t50rp-v20.html

Looks like whatever they used to seal the cups made them very brittle. I would be contacting Mayflower for a new pair that did not use this sealant. It also looks like the screws for the baffle may have been over-tightened. It's really strange to see this with a pair of cups, that plastic is pretty darn strong. Something had to be done to cause this.

post #640 of 1102
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonb View Post

so are you saying the back side is completely sealed up? or are you saying it's open but with the stock felt left in place?

The stock felt is left in place over the vent and nothing else is covering it. I pretty much did only reversible mods except for removing the felt on the ear side of the driver.

post #641 of 1102

Gotcha, I stand by what I said then. It's gotta be quite a bit darker and more bass heavy than my current tuning. Covering the outside vents is totally reversible as well though. it can easily be covered and then uncovered if needed. Right now my outside vents are just covered with masking tape with a hole poked in it. It's easy to try if you'd like to. Cover it up and start with a single tiny pin sized hole, and increase in size and quantity if needed. 

 

The way mine are currently tuned they have just a tiny bit more bass than my AKG Q701 along with better bass extension. The mids are a tad warmer, but neutral and smooth overall. The highs are present and well extended, and definitely not dark. I think they may be better extended on the top end too. They actually seem to have more sparkle. The Q701 has stronger upper mids though which can be good or bad depending. My T50rp has better imaging, but a smaller, narrower soundstage with less air. The T50rp obviously has much better isolation as well. Overall I think I like the T50rp better now. The bass stays in line with my rock and metal music, but with bassy electronic music they are also quite fun.    

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thujone View Post

The stock felt is left in place over the vent and nothing else is covering it. I pretty much did only reversible mods except for removing the felt on the ear side of the driver.

post #642 of 1102
i know this might have been adressed so what combination of mods would give me the flattest and most accurate sound?. i currently have the rockwool and srh-840 mod.
post #643 of 1102
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonb View Post

Gotcha, I stand by what I said then. It's gotta be quite a bit darker and more bass heavy than my current tuning. Covering the outside vents is totally reversible as well though. it can easily be covered and then uncovered if needed. Right now my outside vents are just covered with masking tape with a hole poked in it. It's easy to try if you'd like to. Cover it up and start with a single tiny pin sized hole, and increase in size and quantity if needed. 

 

The way mine are currently tuned they have just a tiny bit more bass than my AKG Q701 along with better bass extension. The mids are a tad warmer, but neutral and smooth overall. The highs are present and well extended, and definitely not dark. I think they may be better extended on the top end too. They actually seem to have more sparkle. The Q701 has stronger upper mids though which can be good or bad depending. My T50rp has better imaging, but a smaller, narrower soundstage with less air. The T50rp obviously has much better isolation as well. Overall I think I like the T50rp better now. The bass stays in line with my rock and metal music, but with bassy electronic music they are also quite fun.    

Interesting. The way you describe yours is almost identical to how I would describe mine. Now, I've never listened to the Q701, so I don't have its "lack of bass" to compare to, but my T50RP's are definitely not bass heavy by any means. They are very well extended on both ends though. From the headphones that I have experienced, these sound very flat to me now with the exception of slightly forward upper mids and highs. Still, I find my HE-400's to be tad bit more bassy.

 

I didn't mess with the felt over the vents only because of BMF's recommendation to leave it alone (no significant advantages/disadvantages to leaving it there). Because of that, I fidgeted around with other tuning procedures. I will mention though, the Paxmate on the driver side makes a BIG difference. When I was still on my 840 configuration, I removed the felt in front of the driver and placed the Paxmate down only to find that the bass pretty much disappeared (IIRC). Since I found the Alphas to be sorta boomy and hollow sounding to begin with, the combo of the two helped a lot.

post #644 of 1102
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudeboybass View Post

i know this might have been adressed so what combination of mods would give me the flattest and most accurate sound?. i currently have the rockwool and srh-840 mod.
anyone? let me clarify. i want them to be the best for studio monitoring
post #645 of 1102
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudeboybass View Post


anyone? let me clarify. i want them to be the best for studio monitoring

It seem apparent to me that you didn't look at the first post very closely.

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